View Full Version : Antilag Lawn experts v14
crabman
12-02-2015, 06:18 PM
So my lawn has just started becoming green and growing pretty quickly, not sure if due to rain+heat or it is that time of the year that lawn grows nice.
My question, is now the time to top dress with sand. If so, what sand? Have heard/read brickies sand is just as good as the stuff labelled for lawn usage.
I know there are some green-keepers in hiding here, did a quick search and couldn't find an appropriate thread. My lawn seems to grow upwards and not outwards so figure it needs top dressing, also want to try get it more level.
Cheers
MadDocker
12-02-2015, 06:24 PM
Missed the boat probably. Would still be ok but a few weeks before the last rains would of been ideal. Brickies sand is fine but if you get something with some nutrients in it, even better.
Wettersoil, mow regularly and fertilise every 3 or so and you'll be fine.
HotAe92
12-02-2015, 06:27 PM
Between now and it's first feed in Autumn is an ok time to do it. I'm personally holding off till it get's a little cooler.
Give it a good mow. Place about 10-15mm of clean yellow sand (brickies is fine) over the top. Use a brickies level or a 'topsoil spreader' (can get one from Bunnings) to get a nice finish if you're levels are all over the place. Let the sprinklers do their thing over the week and it's as easy as that.
crabman
12-02-2015, 06:35 PM
The 10-15mm of sand? Is that pretty much the maximum? I have some fairly uneven bits that will probably need more than 50mm to fill, and that includes pulling about an inch from under the grass on the otherside of that hole. Might take me two years to get it back to level and nice if you can only really top dress it the once a year.
Brett_J
12-02-2015, 06:45 PM
Used to be a green keeper at a bowls club, so have some tricks :)
Given the humidity/sunshine we are getting of late, it's still ideal to topdress it, brickies sand is ok, not the best, but it works, a lawn blend isn't that expansive these days. Bear in mind continual top dressing over the years will make your lawn sit about an inch higher than before, look at old peoples houses, lawns about half a foot above the driveway :P
Anyway, When I move into a new house with shit lawn I do this process.
Weed and feed - which is basically a massive dose of fertiliser
wait till all the shit dies off
Hire a Aerator - motor driven or big heavy roller style is perfect.
Spread soil wetter granules liberally, but not too thick
Then a few days later I'll hit it with Seasol
Usually kick starts it off nicely, water it good for a few weeks, abiding by your watering days of course........
Then after a month or two I'll fertilise it with a good fertiliser, I found Baileys 3.1.1 to be good.
That with mowing weekly and watering usually results in a good lawn :)
*edit
Now is still a good time to add some seed to the topdress as well, given the weather as stated above, you're still ok. So if you want to fix some shitty patches, nows a good time.
One thing as mentioned, if you do topdress it now, water it a lot, the sand can sometimes hold residual heat and actually burn the grass, so water it in the mornings before a hot day :)
^ good advice - thanks.
Have been smashing the lawn with "lawn builder" and "gold course green" the last few weeks - WOW.
Completely smashed out the weeds and is growing in thicker than ever. Weekly mowing too of course.
Will do the aerator and then top dress at the start of autumn I think (unless it's too late/early then??)
Brett_J
12-02-2015, 06:59 PM
^ good advice - thanks.
Have been smashing the lawn with "lawn builder" and "gold course green" the last few weeks - WOW.
Completely smashed out the weeds and is growing in thicker than ever. Weekly mowing too of course.
Will do the aerator and then top dress at the start of autumn I think (unless it's too late/early then??)
Lawns love being Aerated any time, I have a hand one for when I notice dull patches, usually in higher traffic areas the soil gets compacted and the water runs off.
You can top dress any time of the year, just in the cooler months it'll take longer to come through, I do it in the backyard as soon as I can as I have a dog, and she loves laying on dirt and bringing it inside with her, so the less time the better. :)
Once your lawn is back on track, you only need to fertilise every 6 months or so.
crabman
12-02-2015, 07:13 PM
Great info there!
One quick question, choice of seed? I swear my lawn comprises of two different types, wirey looking stuff that grows up and a massive patch of super lush fluffy-like upwards growing stuff. Looks like I have some stuff to buy this weekend from Bunnings haha
Damo 69
12-02-2015, 07:14 PM
RS_Gav has a strong lawn / general gardening game
Brett_J
12-02-2015, 07:21 PM
Great info there!
One quick question, choice of seed? I swear my lawn comprises of two different types, wirey looking stuff that grows up and a massive patch of super lush fluffy-like upwards growing stuff. Looks like I have some stuff to buy this weekend from Bunnings haha
Probably Kikuyu and couch, or good old hard to kill Buffalo !
Also forgot to mention, since you are mowing it a lot, don't use a catcher, you lose up to 75% of the nutrients when you do.
I cut mine weekly, so it never has bulk cuttings, but it'll benefit from it.
Lawn care is simple - water and mow, often :)
Fukushima
12-02-2015, 07:24 PM
RS_Gav has a strong lawn / general gardening game
He's got five slaves to put to the task
Fusion
12-02-2015, 08:36 PM
Need to be careful with the brickies sand though, some places selling it have very high clay content and will go very hard over the top of your lawn. Can buy lawn sand which should be the same price as brickies if not cheaper.
South
12-02-2015, 08:39 PM
You mow once a week and have minimal cuttings, lucky man!
I have to empty my catcher a minimum 2 times for a 70sqm patch that gets mowed once a week.
Cut it on Tues night, and it's already grown 1-2cm
Brett_J
12-02-2015, 08:42 PM
You mow once a week and have minimal cuttings, lucky man!
I have to empty my catcher a minimum 2 times for a 70sqm patch that gets mowed once a week.
Cut it on Tues night, and it's already grown 1-2cm
Yeah I just have seed stalks at the moment for height wise, I cut it on the lowest setting too.
It's spreading out more than growing high at the moment, I have shitty couch, and it's just getting re established, so it's not super thick yet, when I moved in around July, the lawn was FULL of winter grass and clover.
Slight hijack, what's the best dog resistant grass for Perth?
Half my back yard has been raped, the other half I have (kind of) saved. Soft thin leaves grass at the mo. Gotta dig out a fair bit for new paved area lay out so may rip it up and replace once funds allow
urabus
12-02-2015, 10:56 PM
Slight hijack, what's the best dog resistant grass for Perth?
Half my back yard has been raped, the other half I have (kind of) saved. Soft thin leaves grass at the mo. Gotta dig out a fair bit for new paved area lay out so may rip it up and replace once funds allow
By best do you mean fastest to recover?! Basically go kikyu. Buffalo is nice but is very slow. Cooch is fine but goes dormant in winter i.e. Wont recover.
To add to brett's advice i scalp the shit out of my lawn once a year. I.e cut it as low as you can till it basically is brown and not much more than roots. That will also take the high patches out so you dont need to top dress as much.
Golden rule with top dressing is lots of thin coats is much better than a few thick coats.
Once you scalp it fertilise it hard and happy times.
Brendon
Sensible
13-02-2015, 06:36 AM
Slight hijack, what's the best dog resistant grass for Perth?
Half my back yard has been raped, the other half I have (kind of) saved. Soft thin leaves grass at the mo. Gotta dig out a fair bit for new paved area lay out so may rip it up and replace once funds allow
Artificial turf
I had Sir Walter in my back yard and i replaced it twice after my Shepard destroyed it, I have since replaced it with artificial grass and never had to touch it in 4 years
Wilko
13-02-2015, 09:31 AM
Best time of year to scalp?
Artificial turf
I had Sir Walter in my back yard and i replaced it twice after my Shepard destroyed it, I have since replaced it with artificial grass and never had to touch it in 4 years
+ 1 but with Red cloud kelpie running around
Good artificial stuff 50mm+ pile
RELEASE
13-02-2015, 10:30 AM
I've had to bring back from the dead my rear lawn after a series of bad events late last year and pretty much all of it was dead with runners etc all exposed.
After trying all sorts of tips from people which worked for a week or so then went backwards i did the below about a month ago and nearly all 80m2 is now covered in green goodness.
Used metal rack to de-thatch it and remove the dead lawn
Used a garden pick and aerated it (had one around so cheaper to do so than hire a proper one)
Got a nearly 2 trailor loads of Lawn Mix from Amazon soils (http://www.amazonsoils.com.au/products/soil-mixes/lawn-mix/). Its a top dress but also has manure contents, loam, etc. As this created a layer over the dead runners/roots it kept them from being cooked by the sun.
This alone within a day or two had little shoots popping out. It does require heavy watering for the first few days as it clumps/goes hard when dry.
Couple weeks back i threw on Munns Golf course green - shit is like steroids for grass. tried Scotts brand etc and nothing but this stuff...fuck!
miss_petepie
13-02-2015, 04:07 PM
Baileys brilliance is the best stuff I have used. we have Sir Walter Buffalo. It runs in the garden beds like a mofo but our lawn is the best and healthiest in the street. during its growth months we do have to mow every week :(
urabus
13-02-2015, 08:01 PM
Best time of year to scalp?
When its hot. I.e not when it is dormant. I did mine about 3 weeks ago and it looks shit hot now.
Brendon
Brett_J
13-02-2015, 08:12 PM
When its hot. I.e not when it is dormant. I did mine about 3 weeks ago and it looks shit hot now.
Brendon
Yeah what he said :)
I dropped the mower too low over the edge of the lawn 2 weeks ago scalping the shit out of it, went brown instantly, mowed it today, you can't even tell.
I just need to sort the dog piss patches on the back lawn now !
Bomber
13-02-2015, 08:30 PM
Yeah what he said :)
I just need to sort the dog piss patches on the back lawn now !
You seen those rocks you can put in the dog's water bowl? We use one for our two dogs and no more piss patches.
Plenty of land mines but. pingpingpingpings
Brett_J
13-02-2015, 08:51 PM
You seen those rocks you can put in the dog's water bowl? We use one for our two dogs and no more piss patches.
Plenty of land mines but. pingpingpingpings
Yeah need to grab some, will make it a priority tomorrow .
My dog shits more than I feed her, she's great for it, and as soon as I clean the lawn of shit, she strolls out, lays a big fucking steaming cable for me !
dmwill
05-02-2016, 01:11 PM
Bump.
Recently moved house and have approx 65sqm of couch grass out the front. It's pretty thin and not overly green right now. Edges along driveway, etc are dead due to what I assume is weed killer. House was previously a rental, so other than some watering/mowing, it hasn't had any care.
Currently just watering with a hose-connected sprinkler on a timer and moving about regularly (plan to get proper retic eventually).
Given the next week or so is going to be freaking hot, is there anything I should do? Or just keep watering for now and wait till it's cooler before doing anything further?
Brett_J
05-02-2016, 01:21 PM
Mow the shit out of it when it's cool, like real low.
bomb it with a mix of fertiliser and soil wetter, then water liberally in the morning, then a quick hand water at night.
It'll love this weather if it's watered enough
Smash it with Urea, water in well.
Then buy some petrol for the mower cos that sucker is gonna get a workout.
rgvlee
05-02-2016, 03:19 PM
My lawnmower guy recommended that I throw down some baileys brilliance on my buffalo grass
Grew lots, grew fast
180SXTCY
05-02-2016, 03:38 PM
My Formula:
-Good Soil before planting
-Good Irrigation system
-Water wetting crystals in summer
-Fertilizer every 3 or so months
-Cut weekly with roller mower to about 30mm
results so far:
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg77/johny_dee/IMG_20160122_063855_zpszavlapsk.jpg (http://s245.photobucket.com/user/johny_dee/media/IMG_20160122_063855_zpszavlapsk.jpg.html)
dmwill
05-02-2016, 04:03 PM
Smash it with Urea, water in well.
Then buy some petrol for the mower cos that sucker is gonna get a workout.
Have read about Urea on the PF Old man lawn thread. Keen to give that a shot, but hesitant to do so while it's too hot.
Will get a mower eventually, but relying a friend who runs a lawn mowing biz for the time being.
[SPESHAL]
05-02-2016, 04:17 PM
On this note anyone know a good gardener to service south NOR? Every one I get is unreliable and never shows up on time.
urabus
06-02-2016, 10:26 AM
Cant emphasize using a wetting agent enough at this time of year. Something like wetta soil. Cheap, easy, not dangerous etc and helps heaps.
Getting a bit late to renovate turf big time but a bit of a scalping never hurt.
On another note i had to buy some kikyu seed for the infield at the new greyhounds track the other day. Nearly $40 / kg!
Brendon
dmwill
06-02-2016, 09:10 PM
Used a spay on wetting agent last night.
I guess that is all I can do for now until it cools down a bit and I can give some Urea a shot.
Just noticed the postie cuts across the lawn resulting in postie bike lawn digs (ie: a few dozen dead strips from one side to the other). May need to put some stakes/string up to force him to go around. Lazy pingpingpingping.
so...tips for trying to revive grass this time of year is wetting agent :P?
Brett_J
07-02-2016, 01:21 PM
so...tips for trying to revive grass this time of year is wetting agent :P?
Yep, Like I said, if it hasn't been fertilised in the last 3 months I'd do that, mixed with soil wetta granules for a 50/50 mix, spread liberally, at evening when it's cool and water it in for a good 30 mins at least, then same the next morning before the heat of the day, water it for a few days and then every second to third as it gets some life into it. Mow it a lot too, it'll seed like fuck this time of the year.
I just scalped my lawn again on the high spots, it's got brown spots everywhere now, but in 2 weeks it'll be dark green again, if you mow and water your lawn this time of the year it'll be in great nick for winter when it has almost no maintenance. My soil is shit too, so much building rubble I can't even aerate it in most spots, but it's as good as someones with good soil.
I used to be a Bowls Club greenkeeper, so I know a few tricks, keeping it simple is pretty much it :)
protecon
07-02-2016, 02:29 PM
The latest posts inspired me to get my patch up to scratch!
Best thing I've done so far is to swap out the existing pathetic pop-ups for some K-Rain K1 gear-drive. They're bloody expensive ($27 each) but only need half as many now that they have much better spread and range.
Put riser stalks with caps on the deleted ones (makes it easier to find down the track).
Bought some UREA - no recommended use on the back - guessing this will burn the lawn at current temps? OK to spread and water in at night?
Any recommendations for fertiliser?
Need some before and after shots of everyones "grass"
Brett_J, would you be keen to expand a little more on the information? when is a good time to fertilise the grass & as protecon asked, any in particular?
Brett_J
07-02-2016, 05:34 PM
I fertilise any time of the year, but like I said, I water it in good so as to not burn the lawn, but limit it to like 3 or 4 times max a year.
I like the Baileys 3.1.1. Plus which has a granulated wetting agent.
I have to try find some before and after pics, when we moved in it was clover and winter grass !
dmanvan
08-02-2016, 12:56 AM
As above..... fertilise almost anytime, just if it is going to be really spicy, water in well and don't fertiliser already moisture compromised grass this time of year... Early Jan was going to Esperance for a week and had some patches that needed fixing as well as some bits that weren't handling the heat... so before we left I made sure the moisture content was good.
used some lawn repair seed/fertiliser (scotts), then waterered in and covered with topdress mix.. also put topdress mix on the the patches that were browning bad.
came back , awesome, retic had done its job and patches were filled out heaps and a real problem area now had grass that I have been thickening up over the last few weeks...
will have to sort through some pics on phone and find some before and afters...
butters
08-02-2016, 10:22 AM
Can anyone recommend a good lawn weed killer, I'm fighting a losing battle with my weeds at the moment to the point my weeding tool snapped yesterday. Tia
Any recommendations for getting some Common Cooch to spread in previously non grassed areas? I know Cooch spreads like a mofo anyway. Have retic going in this week and keen to start bringing the existing turf back to life and filling the blank spots. Have spread a sizeable amout of yellow sand so far.
d1mitch
08-02-2016, 11:10 AM
this thread is great, i am going to be doing my front and rear landscaping soon so these tips will come in handy.
any tips for initial establishment of new laid lawn? and what is the recommendation as the "best" lawn. Kikuyu seems to get a good wrap?
huggy_b
08-02-2016, 11:13 AM
this thread is great, i am going to be doing my front and rear landscaping soon so these tips will come in handy.
any tips for initial establishment of new laid lawn? and what is the recommendation as the "best" lawn. Kikuyu seems to get a good wrap?
Empire Zoysia.
But regardless of lawn choice, soil prep is a million times more important otherwise you'll just be watering and fertilizing the shit out of it to keep it green.
d1mitch
08-02-2016, 11:17 AM
Empire Zoysia.
But regardless of lawn choice, soil prep is a million times more important otherwise you'll just be watering and fertilizing the shit out of it to keep it green.
thanks.
please elaborate on soil prep. i am a complete noob in regards to gardening, i currently have sand and nothing else. So where do i start? i don't even know the basics haha
DRKWRX
08-02-2016, 11:25 AM
will be getting some Empire Zoysia in the next few weeks or so, would the estate landscaping people do the soil prep good enough? or should we mention it to them?
MadDocker
08-02-2016, 11:42 AM
Mention it too them mate. If anything, pay for an extra load of good soil. The $250 or whatever it is will save you a heap ion fertiliser etc over the years trying to build up shitty brickies sand into good soil. They'll prep to a degree but are working to a budget for the developer and any corner they cut is cash in their pocket.
At my old place, I got a mini bobcat in from across the road to scrape off 20cm or so, got a truck to drop some good soil and spread that out before the lawn went down. Looking after that was piece of piss compared to the shit I'm dealing with at the current house.
DRKWRX
08-02-2016, 12:05 PM
cheers man will mention it to them then, what counts as "good soil" certain type of sand ? like d1mitch have no clue about it, we might have to add some soil anyways because we are putting a wall up this weekend.
Bought some UREA - no recommended use on the back - guessing this will burn the lawn at current temps? OK to spread and water in at night?
Do it after sundown, and water in WELL (I did a 30+min soak in)
The white balls will dissolve.
Won't burn - the grass will love it.
Need some before and after shots of everyones "grass"
http://i.imgur.com/xzdO7v5.jpg
Before and after Urea. BOOM.
MadDocker
08-02-2016, 12:14 PM
You can get landscape mix or lawn mix from the soil shops. Depends what place the landscaper uses or if you organise yourself. Anything will be better than the rubble and shit thats left over from building. Most have some fertilser in it as well as clay or something similar to hold moister.
If you dig out a layer of existing shit, put something decent down and the landscaper does the normal thing like chicken shit down before putting the grass on etc, you'll have a much, much better base to work with. Easier to look after, use less water etc.
dmwill
08-02-2016, 01:14 PM
Problem solved...
http://www.watoday.com.au/wa-news/wa-heatwave-mandurah-business-spray-paints-lawns-to-keep-grass-green-in-summer-20160208-gmog5r.html
180SXTCY
08-02-2016, 01:41 PM
This is what I put down under my lawn: (removed probably around 20 or so cm worth of sand)
https://www.soilsaintsoils.com.au/Our-Products/Soils-(Perth-metro-prices)/Landscape-Mix.aspx
after the grass is planted I spread this over the top:
https://www.soilsaintsoils.com.au/Our-Products/Soils-(Perth-metro-prices)/Special-Lawn-Mix.aspx
then water it a lot. I was doing 3 times a day for about a month.
Ben Wha
08-02-2016, 03:04 PM
What would one do if he was too impatient with prepping the soil prior to laying down some Sir Walter about 2 years ago. I kind of just cleared the land and laid it right on top, held strong for about 10months then started dying in spots, now on hot days it almost dies instantly in areas. I'm guessing the soil underneath is shithouse and dries up super fast. I've tried loads of soil wetter, fertiliser, aerating, etc. I did recently chuck some toil soil in places and it seems better, reckon I could dump heaps on top of the lawn and hope it replenishes the soil underneath or at least establish growth threw the new soil?
Brett_J
08-02-2016, 03:22 PM
What would one do if he was too impatient with prepping the soil prior to laying down some Sir Walter about 2 years ago. I kind of just cleared the land and laid it right on top, held strong for about 10months then started dying in spots, now on hot days it almost dies instantly in areas. I'm guessing the soil underneath is shithouse and dries up super fast. I've tried loads of soil wetter, fertiliser, aerating, etc. I did recently chuck some toil soil in places and it seems better, reckon I could dump heaps on top of the lawn and hope it replenishes the soil underneath or at least establish growth threw the new soil?
Kind of a job for pre summer, but you still might have some luck now, I would mow it to it's normal length, then get a metal rake and gouge the shit out of it in lines, then mow it again super low to get rid of whatever is sticking up, now you should have a whole lot less lawn.
Get areal good soil mix from a proper landscaper, not your generic shit with a few things mixed into it.
I'd aerate it with a roller aerator, then cover it in soil wetting granules/jelly stuff and some fertiliser, then top dress it.
Now the top dress soil will heat up real quick and burn the lawn, so keep it really wet, also throw on some Seasol, lawns love that shit.
Water it daily, put up a sign out the front saying your a sporting club, exempt from watering laws that way ;P
I've pretty much done exactly this bar the sporting club thing to mine, well in December anyway, the front lawn where it was previously shit and sparse has come back thick and lush.
This is the cheap way to do what we used to for a bowling green, except we'd use purpose made machines, but your just removing lots of shit lawn and as much dirt as you can, use new blades, they seem to suck the dirt out of lawn when you do the final mowing before top dressing it.
protecon
08-02-2016, 04:03 PM
Problem solved...
http://www.watoday.com.au/wa-news/wa-heatwave-mandurah-business-spray-paints-lawns-to-keep-grass-green-in-summer-20160208-gmog5r.html
lol at thongs.
dmanvan
08-02-2016, 04:13 PM
Kind of a job for pre summer, but you still might have some luck now, I would mow it to it's normal length, then get a metal rake and gouge the shit out of it in lines, then mow it again super low to get rid of whatever is sticking up, now you should have a whole lot less lawn.
Get areal good soil mix from a proper landscaper, not your generic shit with a few things mixed into it.
I'd aerate it with a roller aerator, then cover it in soil wetting granules/jelly stuff and some fertiliser, then top dress it.
Now the top dress soil will heat up real quick and burn the lawn, so keep it really wet, also throw on some Seasol, lawns love that shit.
Water it daily, put up a sign out the front saying your a sporting club, exempt from watering laws that way ;P
I've pretty much done exactly this bar the sporting club thing to mine, well in December anyway, the front lawn where it was previously shit and sparse has come back thick and lush.
This is the cheap way to do what we used to for a bowling green, except we'd use purpose made machines, but your just removing lots of shit lawn and as much dirt as you can, use new blades, they seem to suck the dirt out of lawn when you do the final mowing before top dressing it. good advice,... also lot of people don't realise you can apply for an exemption from restrictions for a new lawn. And if you are taking an old lawn back to not much and top dressing, would say that you could def say it was a new lawn.
""
Exemptions
Sometimes there are special circumstances when you need to water your garden more often, and you may apply for a temporary exemption from the watering roster.
You can apply for an exemption if you are installing a new garden or a new lawn, including roll-on lawn, runners, shredded lawn and seed.
Both manual and automatic irrigation will qualify for an exemption.
There are 2 types of temporary exemption, depending on the time of the year:
1 October–31 March
If you have been granted a watering exemption between 1st October – 31st March, you are able to water for up to 42 days from the day of planting. It is recommended that you water your new lawn or garden with 10mm of water a day.
""
more info here : http://www.watercorporation.com.au/save-water/watering-days/exemptions
urabus
08-02-2016, 04:25 PM
Any recommendations for getting some Common Cooch to spread in previously non grassed areas? I know Cooch spreads like a mofo anyway. Have retic going in this week and keen to start bringing the existing turf back to life and filling the blank spots. Have spread a sizeable amout of yellow sand so far.
Dont be a tight ass. Ring trevor and get him to lay some instant. It will be smoother and less patchy than waiting for the cooch to cover.
any tips for initial establishment of new laid lawn? and what is the recommendation as the "best" lawn. Kikuyu seems to get a good wrap?
Depends what you want from it. I.e. Cooch and kikyu dont really like the shade. Buffalo is very slow so if you have dogs that run around and tears the grass up thats no good.
What are you doing with it? I.e tennis courts are a cooch mix. Golf / bowling greens are usually a variety of bent but unless you are right into your maintenance you you dont want that because it doesnt run. I.e wont fill in dead patches.
My last place i put in buffalo and was great. This one has less shade and i am putting in a tennis court so i will use cooch.
Brendon
Ben Wha
08-02-2016, 04:50 PM
Kind of a job for pre summer, but you still might have some luck now, I would mow it to it's normal length, then get a metal rake and gouge the shit out of it in lines, then mow it again super low to get rid of whatever is sticking up, now you should have a whole lot less lawn.
Get areal good soil mix from a proper landscaper, not your generic shit with a few things mixed into it.
I'd aerate it with a roller aerator, then cover it in soil wetting granules/jelly stuff and some fertiliser, then top dress it.
Now the top dress soil will heat up real quick and burn the lawn, so keep it really wet, also throw on some Seasol, lawns love that shit.
Water it daily, put up a sign out the front saying your a sporting club, exempt from watering laws that way ;P
I've pretty much done exactly this bar the sporting club thing to mine, well in December anyway, the front lawn where it was previously shit and sparse has come back thick and lush.
This is the cheap way to do what we used to for a bowling green, except we'd use purpose made machines, but your just removing lots of shit lawn and as much dirt as you can, use new blades, they seem to suck the dirt out of lawn when you do the final mowing before top dressing it.
Sounds like a lot of hard work. Want to do it for me?
I'll give it a crack when it cools down a bit.
Evman
08-02-2016, 04:59 PM
If your soil is anything like ours then a rolling aerator won't do shit. Rolling back and forth it only got about 1cm in. Going to try a corer instead at some point but they're much more expensive to hire
Sounds like a lot of hard work. Want to do it for me?
I'll give it a crack when it cools down a bit.
Could be a new business proposition for Brett_J :P surely enough lazy fucks on here to make it worthwhile
Ko[R]uPt
08-02-2016, 11:05 PM
thanks.
please elaborate on soil prep. i am a complete noob in regards to gardening, i currently have sand and nothing else. So where do i start? i don't even know the basics haha
This is a good read: http://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=21938
thanks.
please elaborate on soil prep. i am a complete noob in regards to gardening, i currently have sand and nothing else. So where do i start? i don't even know the basics haha
I used to do landscaping for industrial estates and this is how we used to lay our lawn (talking like 500+ sqm) I used the same method on my lawn at home and it was so green and thick.
Remove about 50mm of the existing sand and rake out all the debris.
Get enough special lawn sand to fill your lawn area at 30mm deep. You should be about 20mm below bricks/fence line etc
Spread a generous amount of dynamic lifter over the lawn sand
Use some wetting agent to keep the soil moist
Lay the lawn out making sure you stagger the rolls
COMPACT THE LAWN WITH A COMPACTOR FROM COATES/KENNARD, RUNNING OVER TWO LAWN LINE JOINS AND NOT A LINE OF LAWN ROLLS. This is the most import step as it evens out all the lawn so you don't get high spots. So many people don't do this step and it makes the lawn look second rate.
I did bit of a half arsed attempt (hung over on the day) of Fu Manchu's soil prep (the link in Ko-R-uPt's post is a fumancu thread. Otherwise Google it, and/or google 'Fu juice grass') prior to laying sir Walter and the shit is growing like crazy. Only thing I never got round to adding was molasses.
Grass went down about 4 months ago, heat hasn't seemed to affect it and I've also had issues with sprinkler so no water for a week or so last month and no water for a little while about a month after it went down.
Also I have a 56kg puppy who loves to run laps. The only areas that there is any browning is one patch where the dog pisses every time, other than that it's good
I bought the gear mentioned and spread it round, half mixed it in to the top f soil and compacted it using only a roller compactor. Bought it all online from a place in midland area and they delivered it. Had a few mushrooms pop up from the organic compost but they fried in the sun pretty quick.
My understanding is that most of the mix makes fr a good too dress too
If you have a dog they may try eat the compost like mine did, so keep bags out f reach. After grass was down for a couple days I had no issues though.
Evman
14-02-2016, 08:00 PM
So I cored the crap out of our lawn today. I was bored and made the decision around 12 to hire one. Kennards was $110 for four hours (min hire) and some other mob was $10 cheaper but also further away. The corer was advertised to get up to 75mm depth but at max penetration I'd say closer to 50mm at best. I went over the lawn three times to make the most of it, putting the core spacing around 100mm. The cores were raked up to leave the holes as open as possible, but most of them broke apart making it more of a top dress than anything else. Then I hit it with a budget granulated lawn fertiliser (it gets seasol regularly anyway) and some stuff called 'Sand to Soil', which is pretty much a clay top dress. The application rate suggested for established lawn would have seen me spend about $500 on bags, so I'll get a ute load of clay one day but the ~300g/m2 that one bag of the stuff gave will have to do it for now.
Overall, huuuuuge difference to the feel of hardness of the lawn. I've bruised my heels countless times running around with the dog but can now actually feel the soil give way a little under foot. Much of the verge is bare soil as we have two cars parked there pretty much permanently. In those areas compaction was a non-issue due to the pure sand that it all is but I cored it none-the-less for improved water penetration (water repellent sand can suck a dick). The lawn is definitely slowly improving the sand it's actually on though - its got a clear organic layer establishing on top so that's good to see in the cores.
Pic of the cored lawn for no good reason https://goo.gl/photos/4jodRUR1SadxoVtGA
Sensible
14-02-2016, 09:31 PM
So I cored the crap out of our lawn today. I was bored and made the decision around 12 to hire one. Kennards was $110 for four hours (min hire) and some other mob was $10 cheaper but also further away. The corer was advertised to get up to 75mm depth but at max penetration I'd say closer to 50mm at best. I went over the lawn three times to make the most of it, putting the core spacing around 100mm. The cores were raked up to leave the holes as open as possible, but most of them broke apart making it more of a top dress than anything else. Then I hit it with a budget granulated lawn fertiliser (it gets seasol regularly anyway) and some stuff called 'Sand to Soil', which is pretty much a clay top dress. The application rate suggested for established lawn would have seen me spend about $500 on bags, so I'll get a ute load of clay one day but the ~300g/m2 that one bag of the stuff gave will have to do it for now.
Overall, huuuuuge difference to the feel of hardness of the lawn. I've bruised my heels countless times running around with the dog but can now actually feel the soil give way a little under foot. Much of the verge is bare soil as we have two cars parked there pretty much permanently. In those areas compaction was a non-issue due to the pure sand that it all is but I cored it none-the-less for improved water penetration (water repellent sand can suck a dick). The lawn is definitely slowly improving the sand it's actually on though - its got a clear organic layer establishing on top so that's good to see in the cores.
Pic of the cored lawn for no good reason https://goo.gl/photos/4jodRUR1SadxoVtGA
I did the same a few weeks ago but also smashed on a heap of soil wetting agent so it would go into the cored areas, noticed with in a few days that the grass was staying damp most of the day and it actually looked life broadleaf buffalo again
Brett_J
15-02-2016, 07:05 AM
I found a pic of the "Lawn" when we moved in, this what what the agent said was nice green lawn, no pic of the front, but it was much the same.
Excuse the brown patches, the dog has toxic piss thanks to her Diabeetus, recently scalped it to level it out a bit, so it's browner than I like, but give it a few weeks and it'll be good again.
http://i64.tinypic.com/281ziia.jpg
And as of this morning
http://i63.tinypic.com/2lc7f34.jpg
It's a rental so not putting in more edging for them, did the front, but the back I don't care about.
volt_bite
15-02-2016, 08:20 AM
Wow thats nice. I really do appreciate a good lawn (even though I think it's a waste of water probably).
I make it a point to point out good lawn to the gf lol
RELEASE
15-02-2016, 12:18 PM
Scalped the front lawn a few weeks back as there was so much thatching you would sink so much walking on it. Filled up 3 big general waste wheelie bins of grass! Poked some holes with a garden fork, Some Munns golf course green fertiliser and a light sprinkling of seed then threw on a decent layer of lawn mix...it's going nuts and so green. Hopefully I scalped it low enough that I don't get the sinking when walking in it again.
Got some urea, baileys 3.1.1 and some wetter soil granuals for the rear. Put the wetter soil and baileys 3.1.1 last night. Will give it a few weeks before I chuck some urea on.
The dog makes the rear grass needing more maintenance more regularly....doesn't have toxic piss like Brett's it's more the running around on it and laying on it so much. You'd think on hot summer days a husky would prefer the cold shaded concrete....not this boof head. Sunbaking in the middle of the day on the grass is where you'll find him
rodent
02-03-2016, 05:51 PM
Been following Brett's and other's advice for the last month, and my lawn has never looked so good at this time of year. Still not worthy of pictures, but a massive improvement so thanks to those guys for the advice.
Need a bit of help identifying this fuckwit of a grass/weed.....
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn288/1974robbo/20160302_173659_resized.jpg (http://s307.photobucket.com/user/1974robbo/media/20160302_173659_resized.jpg.html)
My lawn is slowly getting infected with it, thanks to the council lawn nearby.
Any advice Lawn Gurus?
Turboesky
02-03-2016, 05:53 PM
looks like kikuyu
Turboesky
02-03-2016, 05:54 PM
and it will grow up your leg if you stand still long enough.
dmwill
02-03-2016, 05:59 PM
Did a test patch with Urea a few weeks ago. It's thickened out and a much darker/richer green. It started out rather patchy after a week but is slowly spreading out.
Applied Urea to remainder of lawn last week and watered in well. Starting to see a patches of thick green stuff.
Guess I just need to keep up the watering and give it a god mow soon.
urabus
02-03-2016, 10:50 PM
Been following Brett's and other's advice for the last month, and my lawn has never looked so good at this time of year. Still not worthy of pictures, but a massive improvement so thanks to those guys for the advice.
Need a bit of help identifying this fuckwit of a grass/weed.....
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn288/1974robbo/20160302_173659_resized.jpg (http://s307.photobucket.com/user/1974robbo/media/20160302_173659_resized.jpg.html)
My lawn is slowly getting infected with it, thanks to the council lawn nearby.
Any advice Lawn Gurus?
It is kikyu as above.
Its a shit. Many have tried to develop a chemical that will kill it but none do a very good job. The first company to crack it will make a fortune. It will be to the turf industry what viagra was to pfizer.
Only way to really deal with it is pull it out by hand or get a paint brush and paint neat roundup on it. It will just take over everything. Put something between your lawn and next doors to stop more coming across. Needs to be at least 200mm into the ground.
Brendon
volt_bite
03-03-2016, 08:29 AM
Selective Control:
There are some selective herbicides that you can use to suppress kikuyu but only in couch. That means you can spray them all over the couch and they will just target the kikuyu not the couch. The reality is that you will probably never get rid of it because it will most likely re-invade from its original source but you can certainly suppress it which means you wont see so much of it on the surface. The most notable chemical for the suppression of Kikuyu in Couch is Monument Liquid by Syngenta. Its one of the only chemicals registered for this purpose. It is a commercial group B herbicide so if your thinking about using it you’ll need to get a licensed sprayer to apply it for you. Other options for suppression of kikuyu in couch include selective herbicides that contain DSMA and MCPA. These are available off the shelf in hardware stores and usually have names like Paspalum killer or Paskill etc. Although not noted on the bottle for the control of kikuyu, they will burn back kikuyu on the surface without harming the couch. They also selectively control weeds like paspalum, crab grass and broad leaf weeds. Once again, read the instructions and directions before applying. Because of Kikuyu’s aggressive nature, you will need to repeat applications of these chemicals as required to keep the kikuyu in check. The best time to spray is during the warmer months when the kikuyu is active and able to draw in the chemical
Non Selective Control:
If you have kikuyu invading your buffalo, tall fescue, rye or bluegrass lawn then you cant use the selective herbicides mentioned above because they will harm your lawn. The only solution here is to spot spray with glyphossate (eg Roundup) Keep in mind though that Glyphossate is non selective meaning it kills all types of lawns. You have to be careful to only apply it to the kikuyu, not the lawn you are trying to preserve. The best time to spot spray is winter. The reason for this is because the damage to surrounding lawn will be minimised.
http://www.paulmunnsinstantlawn.com.au/blog/how-do-you-get-rid-of-kikuyu-growing-in-your-lawn/
HotAe92
03-03-2016, 08:56 AM
It is kikyu as above.
Its a shit. Many have tried to develop a chemical that will kill it but none do a very good job. The first company to crack it will make a fortune. It will be to the turf industry what viagra was to pfizer.
Only way to really deal with it is pull it out by hand or get a paint brush and paint neat roundup on it. It will just take over everything. Put something between your lawn and next doors to stop more coming across. Needs to be at least 200mm into the ground.
Brendon
Have you tried Tribute? I have to buy some for work to control some crabgrass and was going to trial some on some problem kikyu I have at home, 'apparently' it's meant to control Kikyu - but expensive at $168/L
XsQuiZiT
03-03-2016, 09:00 AM
What's the most effective watering system for a narrow patch of grass that runs the length of the driveway? I'm sick of watering by hand!
thommo
03-03-2016, 09:02 AM
sprinklers
Gleeso
03-03-2016, 09:45 AM
I make it a point to point out good lawn to the gf lol
Want her to mow your lawn AND make you sandwiches? Kudos.
2LMILK
03-03-2016, 11:10 AM
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u3/keepitreal07/20160127_175252_zpsiphplauz.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/keepitreal07/media/20160127_175252_zpsiphplauz.jpg.html)
This is my back yard, the rear sprinklers dont have enough arc to get the water far enough to the centre.
have fixed that but seems not to want to come back. treated it with lawn beatle spray but still wont come back
any advise
hostage_85
03-03-2016, 12:42 PM
I am having similar issues i witha section of my SW Buffalo.
It just died off in one patch last last year and I just can't bring it back.
-Luke-
03-03-2016, 12:53 PM
+1 x2
Have buffalo and similar issues.
SimonR32
03-03-2016, 01:02 PM
Mine did similar, I just got longer throw sprinkler heads and watered well and a bit of fertiliser when it started to come good for extra measure.
Now wouldn't be able to tell it had ever happened but took a few months to get the runners going
Brett_J
03-03-2016, 01:26 PM
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u3/keepitreal07/20160127_175252_zpsiphplauz.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/keepitreal07/media/20160127_175252_zpsiphplauz.jpg.html)
This is my back yard, the rear sprinklers dont have enough arc to get the water far enough to the centre.
have fixed that but seems not to want to come back. treated it with lawn beatle spray but still wont come back
any advise
Go buy a few metres of buffalo from bunnings for fuck all and throw them in.
2LMILK
03-03-2016, 02:05 PM
there are now a few runners going across, but i think thats due to the beetle treatment and the ass hats aint eating it anymore
More water and food and she be right i hope.
would some top soid help at all
vk-308
03-03-2016, 04:20 PM
Looks like a bit of lawn knowledge in here....
I need some advice, moved back into my house, previously rented for 2 years, no care for lawn and parking on it all the time, it was 90% sand/dead.
3 weeks ago started watering it and got retic all sorted, then have raked all the dead stuff out, aerated with some spiked moonboots from bunnings, thin layer of soils aint soils lawn sand about 2 weeks ago
The patches that are growing are nice and green, anything I can do to accelerate the spreading/growth? I read somewhere on the net its not good to fertilise a struggling lawn? Do I just have to just wait it out and keep the water upto it?
http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/ashley_page3/grass_zps8hqcvry8.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/ashley_page3/media/grass_zps8hqcvry8.jpg.html)
HotAe92
03-03-2016, 04:43 PM
Looks like a bit of lawn knowledge in here....
I need some advice, moved back into my house, previously rented for 2 years, no care for lawn and parking on it all the time, it was 90% sand/dead.
3 weeks ago started watering it and got retic all sorted, then have raked all the dead stuff out, aerated with some spiked moonboots from bunnings, thin layer of soils aint soils lawn sand about 2 weeks ago
The patches that are growing are nice and green, anything I can do to accelerate the spreading/growth? I read somewhere on the net its not good to fertilise a struggling lawn? Do I just have to just wait it out and keep the water upto it?
http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/ashley_page3/grass_zps8hqcvry8.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/ashley_page3/media/grass_zps8hqcvry8.jpg.html)
Other than seeding it, I would let it do it's thing, as that's not bad from 2 weeks if it was near trashed/dead before hand. In a fortnight or so I would give it a kick with a liquid fertiliser/seasol treatment.
there are now a few runners going across, but i think thats due to the beetle treatment and the ass hats aint eating it anymore
More water and food and she be right i hope.
would some top soid help at all
a bit of top dress wouldn't hurt, but I would aerate and try and lose some of that dead thatch if it's not coming back. Basically want to create a good growing medium to encourage the runners across.
Sensible
03-03-2016, 04:52 PM
To both asking what to do above
Hit it with Seasol for grass,
It is different from the normal Seasol ( don't ask me why it is what my mower man said ) I had patching like that after the retic decided to only work at half strength and not cover the full lawn, I then raked ot the dead area gave it two bottles of this stuff and within a week I runniers starting to head towards the dead area
I don't really come on here much and don't really delve into this section of the forum, but I gotta say that this is not a thread I expected on AL haha
The older I've become, the more obsessed I am with my lawn... I've turned into an old Italian somehow.. wtf
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1517/24834971304_7ccb3c94ff_c.jpg
tinto
03-03-2016, 06:17 PM
Wow!
Clearly using a reel mower of some sort?
Wow!
Clearly using a reel mower of some sort?
yeh, picked up a Rover 45 for not many rubles a couple years back... still had the purchase receipt for $1600 and a few years of service history in a little folder, think I paid $550 from memory. highly recommend trolling gumtree for one. briggs and stratton starts first pull every time
vk-308
03-03-2016, 09:30 PM
Other than seeding it, I would let it do it's thing, as that's not bad from 2 weeks if it was near trashed/dead before hand. In a fortnight or so I would give it a kick with a liquid fertiliser/seasol treatment.
Thanks will give that a go, should I aerate it again then also?
-Luke-
03-03-2016, 09:45 PM
I don't really come on here much and don't really delve into this section of the forum, but I gotta say that this is not a thread I expected on AL haha
The older I've become, the more obsessed I am with my lawn... I've turned into an old Italian somehow.. wtf
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1517/24834971304_7ccb3c94ff_c.jpg
I have lawn envy. My lawn is the single biggest disappointment in my life.
HotAe92
04-03-2016, 07:12 AM
Thanks will give that a go, should I aerate it again then also?
Shouldn't need to if you did it a few weeks back.
180SXTCY
04-03-2016, 09:28 AM
yeh, picked up a Rover 45 for not many rubles a couple years back... still had the purchase receipt for $1600 and a few years of service history in a little folder, think I paid $550 from memory. highly recommend trolling gumtree for one. briggs and stratton starts first pull every time
same roller mower I have, they make a world of difference!
KAL SPL
04-03-2016, 10:14 AM
Advice on top dressing ?
Just regular sand and level it out or something special ?
Additives while I'm at it or don't get elaborate ?
Section is 14x12m , has been fenced off section in my paddock for veggie gardens and fruit trees , daily watering means lawns go spastic and I would like it flat and respectable given it used to be a paddock literally.
Evman
04-03-2016, 10:50 AM
If you have sandy soil like most of Perth a clay based top dress will do wonders. Clay holds onto nutrients and water far better than sand so what you apply in the future will go a lot further
yeh dont use yellow sand whatever you do, cakes hard and has no nutrient value. get into graingers/soils aint soils and get a specific lawn mix
miss_petepie
04-03-2016, 04:00 PM
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u3/keepitreal07/20160127_175252_zpsiphplauz.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/keepitreal07/media/20160127_175252_zpsiphplauz.jpg.html)
This is my back yard, the rear sprinklers dont have enough arc to get the water far enough to the centre.
have fixed that but seems not to want to come back. treated it with lawn beatle spray but still wont come back
any advise
My SW Buffalo is like this and I use Baileys Brilliance and some deep watering and it perks right back up. Before each winter and summer I feed it for 3 weekends in a row and then its all good over 3-6 months. Really need to get stuck back into it :)
KAL SPL
04-03-2016, 05:29 PM
If you have sandy soil like most of Perth a clay based top dress will do wonders. Clay holds onto nutrients and water far better than sand so what you apply in the future will go a lot further
My lawn is 4900km away from Perth ....
I actually live on the side of a defunct volcanic mountain , my soil is 100% clay , I found this out when I tried to drill holes for the poles to go in , it was like glue !
U fortunately I don't have anywhere on the property I can dig to use a quarry of sorts , will look into my options.
Evman
05-03-2016, 07:17 AM
Then you'll want a sand topdress to start reducing the relative clay content. If you Google 'soil triangle' there'll be a bunch of pictures showing the different soil types based on the relative sand, silt and clay contents. Loam is considered ideal for the combined average but there are obviously specific plants that will prefer each type.
dmwill
02-04-2016, 12:49 PM
Finally got around to mowing the lawn. I left it a bit too long after 2 months of Urea and constant watering, so you can see the yellowish patches where it was really thick before.
The patches down at the bottom of the pic don't seem to get any better though...suggestions?
The previous owner didn't do a good job when they put in those shrubs in (Nearmap shows the lawn previously went a bit further up to the Olive trees a while back). There is thick runners all under the mulch and grass all through the shrubs. I'm going to rip all that out eventually and start from scratch. I'm guessing a strip of thick plastic (2-3mm thick stuff) buried along the edge may stop that in the future?
http://oi66.tinypic.com/t8ribc.jpg
skidkid
02-04-2016, 04:00 PM
So who has what for hard lawn edging? I'm thinking of getting some metal lengths to stop the lawn creeping into my garden beds, but have no clue as to where I should get it from (or even what to go with).
Sensible
02-04-2016, 04:51 PM
Bunnings sell both the Metal and the Plastic edging
Not really a fan of it though, hard to keep straight lines in the edges as the grass just pushes it out and also only really keeps buffalo style grasses from spreading into garden beds due to growing from runners where as other types of grass grow from deep roots
urabus
03-04-2016, 01:28 AM
So who has what for hard lawn edging? I'm thinking of getting some metal lengths to stop the lawn creeping into my garden beds, but have no clue as to where I should get it from (or even what to go with).
We go through kilometres of the aluminium stuff up north. Try greenway enterprises on tacoma circle in canning vale. Just up the street from huggy.
As per phils comment its fine on curves but you need a stringline for straight bits and need to be cautious when you backfill against it. It comes in 75 and 100mm thickness from memory.
Brendon
catchya
03-04-2016, 06:56 AM
Finally got around to mowing the lawn. I left it a bit too long after 2 months of Urea and constant watering, so you can see the yellowish patches where it was really thick before.
The patches down at the bottom of the pic don't seem to get any better though...suggestions?
The previous owner didn't do a good job when they put in those shrubs in (Nearmap shows the lawn previously went a bit further up to the Olive trees a while back). There is thick runners all under the mulch and grass all through the shrubs. I'm going to rip all that out eventually and start from scratch. I'm guessing a strip of thick plastic (2-3mm thick stuff) buried along the edge may stop that in the future?
http://oi66.tinypic.com/t8ribc.jpg
Save yourself some work. Spray those grass runners with Fusilade Forte. It won't kill your plants / trees, it's just a grass killer. I use it all the time for the properties I look after.
skidkid
03-04-2016, 09:05 AM
We go through kilometres of the aluminium stuff up north. Try greenway enterprises on tacoma circle in canning vale. Just up the street from huggy.
As per phils comment its fine on curves but you need a stringline for straight bits and need to be cautious when you backfill against it. It comes in 75 and 100mm thickness from memory.
Brendon
Perfect, thanks mate!
HotAe92
04-04-2016, 06:57 AM
My lawn is a bit of a basket case. The backyard is ok with the couch being in reasonable nick, minimal weed and Hunter PCP on all corners. The front lawn is couch with a shitload of kikyu throughout, it's a prick managing the two growth rates, but is too much lawn to rip out and start again.
Anyway, both were in shit condition (no photos, so you'll have to take my word for it), so I hit mine with a top dress a few weeks back.
These 2t tippers are mint for little jobs around the house. *note quality of lawn in the foreground.
http://s82.photobucket.com/user/TuffSJ80/media/IMG_3337_zps8c5o4rl9.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j273/TuffSJ80/IMG_3338_zps837bjcch.jpg
First mow following topdress last week.
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j273/TuffSJ80/IMG_3472_zpsmkbxl4vp.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j273/TuffSJ80/IMG_3474_zps67g4qbal.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j273/TuffSJ80/IMG_3475_zpseydaa4ns.jpg
I just did a second cut last night. Has come up well - will post some photos this week. Still some problem patches that will require a bit more intensive treatment.
Wrexter
02-05-2016, 08:09 AM
Calling all lawn experts!
I am almost at the planting stage of my backyard project and i have hit a stumbling block with my lawn.
I have prepared my new lawn area (below) but with the orientation of my house (north facing), although i get sun on the area in summer, there is absolutely no sun hitting that spot at the moment and i imagine all through the cooler months.
http://i.imgur.com/pCiC0GZ.jpg
Will i be wasting my time trying to get grass to grow here?
From my research Palmetto would be my best bet but even that apparently needs 3-4 hours direct sunlight every day.
I am not a fan of synthetic turf whatsoever but is it my only option now?
I would rather have synthetic than no turf.
Cheers for any advice.
urabus
02-05-2016, 09:02 AM
Calling all lawn experts!
I am almost at the planting stage of my backyard project and i have hit a stumbling block with my lawn.
Will i be wasting my time trying to get grass to grow here?
From my research Palmetto would be my best bet but even that apparently needs 3-4 hours direct sunlight every day.
I am not a fan of synthetic turf whatsoever but is it my only option now?
I would rather have synthetic than no turf.
Cheers for any advice.
dont ever expect a full lush lawn but you can get turf to hang in there. The buffalos are best but like anything they will go completely dormant during winter. I would wait until spring to plant it so it can establish itself and get a decent growing season under its belt.
If you have an animal that is going to damage it i would go for synthetic as it just wont get the chance to recover.
Brendon
HotAe92
02-05-2016, 12:05 PM
dont ever expect a full lush lawn but you can get turf to hang in there. The buffalos are best but like anything they will go completely dormant during winter. I would wait until spring to plant it so it can establish itself and get a decent growing season under its belt.
If you have an animal that is going to damage it i would go for synthetic as it just wont get the chance to recover.
Brendon
Can echo what Brendon said.
I would go a buffalo and wait til the soil temps are slightly higher in spring to get better establishment.
My neighbour installed some buffalo in a similar (very shady) location and managed to get it looking good.
Wrexter
02-05-2016, 12:29 PM
ok thanks guys, will wait till spring when the area gets a little more sun and install.
I dont want the soil to get infested with weeds till then, can i just gover with weedmat to avoid wheeds growing for the timebeing?
Or just let it do its thing and use roundup before lawn install?
or both.
DRKWRX
02-05-2016, 12:39 PM
had our sir walter buffalo down for a couple months now and the lines are starting to go, been goin gang busters so far, we are going to wait to lay the back till spring time as well, don't see the point risking it.
http://s32.postimg.org/j4xi351gl/13087006_10154151232022162_6232152271424595507_o.j pg (http://postimage.org/)
HotAe92
02-05-2016, 12:48 PM
ok thanks guys, will wait till spring when the area gets a little more sun and install.
I dont want the soil to get infested with weeds till then, can i just gover with weedmat to avoid wheeds growing for the timebeing?
Or just let it do its thing and use roundup before lawn install?
or both.
It shouldn't be too bad for weeds if there wasn't a huge amount to begin with.
Wouldn't bother with weed mat, however, if you really want to go for that approach you could alternatively lay down several sheets of newspaper and water down for a soil cover. Whatever doesn't breakdown can be removed prior laying the turf.
For mine, I'd just touch up with a bit of Roundup every few weeks to keep on top of it, as you'd probably be doing the rest of the yard anyway. Some people get stressed about residual herbicide, but I've never had an issue.
matty12
03-05-2016, 08:34 AM
Need some lawn for my place, whar would be good the requires the least amout of watering as we are on tank water? Got to do some site prep as its just a builders sand pad.
MadDocker
03-05-2016, 08:51 AM
had our sir walter buffalo down for a couple months now and the lines are starting to go, been goin gang busters so far, we are going to wait to lay the back till spring time as well, don't see the point risking it.
What a wanker. Looking lovely. Mine is getting smashed at the moment with all the building sand blowing over it from across the road. Front edges are like 100mm high and have to keep hacking them back all the time. Can't wait until all those houses are built.
HotAe92
03-05-2016, 10:38 AM
Need some lawn for my place, whar would be good the requires the least amout of watering as we are on tank water? Got to do some site prep as its just a builders sand pad.
Most of the common grass types in WA are drought tolerant but will need a bit more context to what you want it to look like/use, neighboring garden beds?, shade, etc to give some better advice.
matty12
03-05-2016, 11:41 AM
No beds just grass, where it runs along the house it will be sectioned off under the eaves and will have stones/gravel upto the house. The house faces north in this area so would get full summer sun from about 11 onwards but in winter get the arvo shade from the tree in the pic. It will be for the kids to play on.
Photo is taken about 3 in the arvo a few weeks ago.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj296/1uzvl/Random/20160421_141924_zpswqbbc7fj.jpg (http://s275.photobucket.com/user/1uzvl/media/Random/20160421_141924_zpswqbbc7fj.jpg.html)
Looking NNE
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj296/1uzvl/Random/20160421_141854_zpsojzi7u1m.jpg (http://s275.photobucket.com/user/1uzvl/media/Random/20160421_141854_zpsojzi7u1m.jpg.html)
Looking east.
Wrexter
03-05-2016, 12:04 PM
No beds just grass, where it runs along the house it will be sectioned off under the eaves and will have stones/gravel upto the house. The house faces north in this area so would get full summer sun from about 11 onwards but in winter get the arvo shade from the tree in the pic. It will be for the kids to play on.
Photo is taken about 3 in the arvo a few weeks ago.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj296/1uzvl/Random/20160421_141924_zpswqbbc7fj.jpg (http://s275.photobucket.com/user/1uzvl/media/Random/20160421_141924_zpswqbbc7fj.jpg.html)
Looking NNE
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj296/1uzvl/Random/20160421_141854_zpsojzi7u1m.jpg (http://s275.photobucket.com/user/1uzvl/media/Random/20160421_141854_zpsojzi7u1m.jpg.html)
Looking east.
I hope you are not just putting turf down onto yellow sand.
Get some good quality soil conditioner, bentonite clay into that yellow sand and mix through.
matty12
03-05-2016, 12:17 PM
yeah nah, needs some organic shit. Not going to turf just going to seed it out.
Lukey
03-05-2016, 07:17 PM
No beds just grass, where it runs along the house it will be sectioned off under the eaves and will have stones/gravel upto the house. The house faces north in this area so would get full summer sun from about 11 onwards but in winter get the arvo shade from the tree in the pic. It will be for the kids to play on.
Photo is taken about 3 in the arvo a few weeks ago.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj296/1uzvl/Random/20160421_141924_zpswqbbc7fj.jpg (http://s275.photobucket.com/user/1uzvl/media/Random/20160421_141924_zpswqbbc7fj.jpg.html)
Looking NNE
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj296/1uzvl/Random/20160421_141854_zpsojzi7u1m.jpg (http://s275.photobucket.com/user/1uzvl/media/Random/20160421_141854_zpsojzi7u1m.jpg.html)
Looking east.
That a Ross Squire house?
Bit hard to see from the photos but has the earmarks.
Where abouts is it?
matty12
04-05-2016, 07:01 AM
Yeah it is, just out of Bindoon. Pretty easy to spot they all look the same haha
Lukey
04-05-2016, 08:00 AM
Yeah thought so. I'm a squires chippy but mainly work south, did you meet the chippy who built it?
matty12
04-05-2016, 09:23 AM
Yeah i did and his off sider but cant remember names.
dmwill
05-05-2016, 05:26 PM
My lawn is looking damn good now, but the weeds are being real pingpingpingpings (probably doesn't help that neighbouring properties have more weeds than grass/plants).
Besides weed and feed, is there any other lazy way to tackle them?
HotAe92
06-05-2016, 06:37 AM
My lawn is looking damn good now, but the weeds are being real pingpingpingpings (probably doesn't help that neighbouring properties have more weeds than grass/plants).
Besides weed and feed, is there any other lazy way to tackle them?
What weeds have you got? There are a gamut of selective herbicides out there for tackling turf weeds. Weed and Feed is the equivalent to drinking a shandy when you're really craving an ice cold Guinness.
urabus
06-05-2016, 03:52 PM
What weeds have you got? There are a gamut of selective herbicides out there for tackling turf weeds. Weed and Feed is the equivalent to drinking a shandy when you're really craving an ice cold Guinness.
This. Weed and Feed is junk.
The stuff bunnings sell is generally watered down and bloody expensive. Landmark or Globe chemicals (although im not sure globe sell to the general public) or any of the rural supply mobs. Only issue is they are going to want to sell you a minimum of 5 ltrs which will last you a couple of life times.
Common selective herbicides are double time and spearhead. Just be careful with compatibility as some will also knock the shit out of buffalo.
Also remember your respirator and to wash out your spray rig.
Cheap option is to spot spray with roundup but at this time of the year it will take a long time for the grass to fill in.
Brendon
Sebdullah
24-09-2016, 01:30 PM
Right I need to tack le my lawn preferrably this long weekend, any suggestions on bringing it back from winter. It's palmetto & is looking mostly mostly yellow & fairly dried out :(
The_Senator
24-09-2016, 02:17 PM
Is it too early to de-thatch / scalp and fertalise / topdress?
catchya
24-09-2016, 04:40 PM
Right I need to tack le my lawn preferrably this long weekend, any suggestions on bringing it back from winter. It's palmetto & is looking mostly mostly yellow & fairly dried out :(
Give it a mow with the rotary not the cylinder. Palmetto grass suffers from being cut too short.
Then aerate the lawn, Fertilize with some soluble Urea and Dynamic lifter. Best to water in the fertilizers using the reticulation, not by hand.
2 weeks time, give it another dose of soluble Urea and dynamic lifter. Best to do it on your watering days.
Grass should be green as
urabus
24-09-2016, 08:29 PM
Is it too early to de-thatch / scalp and fertalise / topdress?
Maybe just. Just want the soil to warm up a bit. A couple of decent warm days and get into it. You wont do any harm by doing it now but you wont see solid results just yet.
Most golf courses will go late october early november for their renovation program.
Brendon
DRKWRX
25-09-2016, 06:47 AM
what should I be doing with my Buffalo? has been down for 6 months or so, still looking good but not as green, anything I should do to it?
180SXTCY
25-09-2016, 10:41 AM
Just did some work on my lawn myself.
As mentioned weed and feed you buy from bunnings is turd, well at least for me. I pulled every single weed i had out by hand roots and all. pingpingpingping of a job to say the least but results are worth it.
After weeding i cut it abit lower than usual to encourage so.e good solid fresh grow back and gave it some good quality slow release fertalizer and turned the retic on to wash it in.
Its getting nice and thick and green again.
Oh btw this is with sir walter buffalo.
catchya
25-09-2016, 11:24 AM
what should I be doing with my Buffalo? has been down for 6 months or so, still looking good but not as green, anything I should do to it?
Just feed it with an organic fertilizer like dynamic lifter for now and in another 7 to 10 days time give it a mow.
I'm assuming your retic is on although at this very moment its not critical due to this fucked up ongoing cold weather.
After mowing, another light dose of dynamic lifter and water in. If you have Urea, sprinkle that shit on as well. Helps with soils temps this time of year.
During the start of summer or a few weeks into summer, start using a slow release fertiliser and top up maybe at the end of each month with a light dose of dynamic lifter.
You'll be sick of mowing then.
180SXTCY
27-09-2016, 06:35 AM
Yesterdays adventures...
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg77/johny_dee/Mobile%20Uploads/20160926_095658_zpsrh0yrvol.jpg (http://s245.photobucket.com/user/johny_dee/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160926_095658_zpsrh0yrvol.jpg.html)
RELEASE
27-09-2016, 08:32 AM
no issues with weeds in lawn for a few years...this winter I get Winter Grass FUUUUUUUUUU
quick search has me not finding anything to use that is Kikuyu safe
guess i'll pull out all the pingpingpingpings by hand
Brett_J
27-09-2016, 08:37 AM
I don't even touch my lawn until November except for the monthly mow, then I go hard mowing it down to near on dirt and build it up from there.
It's been a long cold winter and long range suggests a cooler summer, I'll do a top dress this year though. Which will include a dethatching with a hard metal rake, new blades on the mower and drop it to it's lowest point to suck up bulk dirt, then fertiliser etc and top dress.
Ko[R]uPt
27-09-2016, 09:57 AM
My buffalo is also looking a bit brown following this winter. My plan is to wait for it to heat up, thatch it with the mower then top dress with Dsatco Lawn Maximiser and continue my monthly Seasol & Powerfeed spray. Then Saturaid around December.
Has anyone used old coffee grounds before? If so, how?
dmwill
27-09-2016, 10:39 AM
no issues with weeds in lawn for a few years...this winter I get Winter Grass FUUUUUUUUUU
quick search has me not finding anything to use that is Kikuyu safe
guess i'll pull out all the pingpingpingpings by hand
Winter Grass is a pingpingpingping.
I used a purpose made killer on my couch a few months back. It killed the stuff off, but I was a bit too late as more started seeding/growing not long after.
Sounds like I need to spray just after summer, before they start growing. Can any resident lawn guru confirm this?
Likewise with clover.
What doesn't help is half the street giving zero fucks about their own gardens/lawns. A couple of weeks back I even took to neighbours verge and driveway with some potent killer.
MadDocker
27-09-2016, 11:04 AM
Sounds like I need to spray just after summer, before they start growing. Can any resident lawn guru confirm this?
Sue McDougall says this on her 6PR segment. Haven't had joy with it personally, still get it crazy in winter. Have heard that once it goes to seed it takes about 7 years of work to get on top of it properly though. Will just keep trying.
dmwill
27-09-2016, 11:31 AM
I just keep mowing in the meantime...get to them before they seed.
RELEASE
27-09-2016, 12:01 PM
what was the purpose made killer and where you get it from?
I've had 2 opinions on it so far...
- don't mow and just pull it out by hand as mowing spreads it
- wait till summer hits and the fucker goes naturally
HotAe92
27-09-2016, 12:25 PM
what was the purpose made killer and where you get it from?
I've had 2 opinions on it so far...
- don't mow and just pull it out by hand as mowing spreads it
- wait till summer hits and the fucker goes naturally
http://www.environmentalscience.bayer.com.au/Turf-Management/Products/Tribute-Selective-Herbicide
Expensive and fairly nasty to handle, but it works. Can order it from the likes of Elders, Landmark etc.
After thinking I had a fairly good handle on my lawn, I've had almost every weed imaginable pop up in the lawn whilst I've been away for 3 weeks. This is how I feel about my lawn (and house in general) at the moment
https://wiki.smu.edu.sg/is306/img_auth.php/thumb/a/a6/Funny-man-throwing-papers-air.jpg/180px-Funny-man-throwing-papers-air.jpg
catchya
27-09-2016, 01:26 PM
what was the purpose made killer and where you get it from?
I've had 2 opinions on it so far...
- don't mow and just pull it out by hand as mowing spreads it
- wait till summer hits and the fucker goes naturally
Winter grass will die off when summer finally arrives. Mow it down and spray for the shit around April and May.
After spraying turn the retic on as it needs to be watered in so spray on your watering day.
Spraying for Winter grass needs to happen yearly until the lawn is eventually clear of it so yes it will take a few years to rid
Another product that tackles pest grass is Kerb. It is what I use for the properties I look after.
dmwill
27-09-2016, 01:48 PM
I used this stuff: https://www.bunnings.com.au/amgrow-100ml-winter-grass-killer_p2980004
Fucking wintergrass - lawn is full of it this year. Been pulling it out by hand.
Good to know there's some specific herbicide I can use, cheers fellas.
RELEASE
28-09-2016, 08:11 AM
cheers guys. i'll tackle it next week or so
my lawnmower man has retired so time for me to step up!
any recommendations for a cheap Electric lawnmower to buy?
(prefer one on a cord/not rechargable)
Sebdullah
29-09-2016, 09:08 AM
have been using an Ozito for the last year or so with no issues
have been using an Ozito for the last year or so with no issues
do you know if thats the 1000 or 1400W model?
Rb_sil
29-09-2016, 09:31 AM
NOOB question...
had my Sir Walter go down couple of months ago at the new place now there is what I assume is winter grass popping up can someone confirm from the picture below ?
(up until reading this thread didn't even know that winter grass existed)
http://i67.tinypic.com/212a0jm.jpg
Sebdullah
29-09-2016, 09:32 AM
1400
MadDocker
29-09-2016, 09:38 AM
Rb-sil - That's winter grass. Don't let it go to seed whatever you do. RIP.
^ i got rid of most of the wintergrass, but the worst problem I have in the sir walter, is a low lying weed that has little yellow flowers & turns to prickles - no idea what its called but its horrible..
Brett_J
29-09-2016, 09:44 AM
^ i got rid of most of the wintergrass, but the worst problem I have in the sir walter, is a low lying weed that has little yellow flowers & turns to prickles - no idea what its called but its horrible..
You can get a Bindi and Clover killer, works a treat, just takes like 2 or so weeks.
just googled bindi & yeah i think that's it (I'm from the Pilbara, give me a break :p )
so can i just spray the stuff all over the SW & it will be ok?
Brett_J
29-09-2016, 10:17 AM
just googled bindi & yeah i think that's it (I'm from the Pilbara, give me a break :p )
so can i just spray the stuff all over the SW & it will be ok?
It's not as bad as double gees, but yeah spray it all, its selective.
Rb_sil
29-09-2016, 12:46 PM
Rb-sil - That's winter grass. Don't let it go to seed whatever you do. RIP.
Go to seed ? (as in when it flowers or something cause it then spreads)
HotAe92
29-09-2016, 01:10 PM
Go to seed ? (as in when it flowers or something cause it then spreads)
Yeah. Just keep mowing it every 2 weeks and you shouldn't be left with an epidemic like mine. Once this cold weather breaks the winter grass will finally piss off.
MadDocker
29-09-2016, 01:26 PM
Go to seed ? (as in when it flowers or something cause it then spreads)
Yeah. If you leave it, little stems will shoot out with light green / white seed pods on top. Once that spreads everywhere it's fucked to get rid of.
Rb_sil
29-09-2016, 02:38 PM
thanks guys
Ok looking a establishing a new patch of lawn and renovating an older patch. I plan on completey killing and removing the current lawn as it is weed infested beyond repair; doesnt grow in certian parts, and looks to be a mix of buffalo and something else that isn't a buffalo which makes my life hard when choosing a feed'n'weed. I have applied round up to current grass to kill it off so i can remove it all back to bare dirt. Looking at the patches where the grass doesnt grow it looks like a red builders sand has been used as a base for the grass and im assuming this is why it never took off in certian sections regardless of how much fertilising i did. First plan off attack i to remove the current grass and excavste aome of the current sand to be replaced with proper top soil.
How much topsoil do i need and what would be the best grass to use? The current grass spews out runners all thrpugh the rest of the yard which infuriate me.
urabus
10-10-2016, 09:03 PM
How much topsoil do i need and what would be the best grass to use? The current grass spews out runners all thrpugh the rest of the yard which infuriate me.
In relation to topsoil ideally you want around 50mm minimum. Use heaps of dynamic lifter before you lay the turf.
Depends on what you want from the lawn and how much sun it gets. Do you have pets, kids? Buffalo is great in lower light but it is very slow growing so if you have dogs that run riot then it is no good to you.
If you have runners it more than likely kikyu. That shit is like cockroaches. Killing it is nigh on impossible. My point is putting couch down might be great but more than likely the kikyu will come back anyways so might aswell embrace it and put kikyu down.
Brendon
dmwill
17-10-2016, 06:43 PM
Putting aside the Winter Grass, WTF is this shit disrespecting my lawn now?
http://oi68.tinypic.com/2e1r3wy.jpg
catchya
17-10-2016, 06:57 PM
LoL... That disrespecting pingpingping looks to be rye grass or crab grass. I know its a close up but i'm blind as ....
HotAe92
18-10-2016, 09:29 AM
Putting aside the Winter Grass, WTF is this shit disrespecting my lawn now?
http://oi68.tinypic.com/2e1r3wy.jpg
Crab grass. Someone sold you some quality roll-on.
Tribute (available from Landmark, Elders etc) will knock it on the head but it is a Group B (nasty) herbicide, and quite expensive.
dmwill
18-10-2016, 11:40 AM
Crab grass. Someone sold you some quality roll-on.
Tribute (available from Landmark, Elders etc) will knock it on the head but it is a Group B (nasty) herbicide, and quite expensive.
Sold to previous owner, not me :P
House was previously a rental, so I doubt the lawn had any real care in recent years. When I moved in early January, the lawn was almost dead (was on the market late spring/early summer, so got little or no water at all).
Within a few months of moving in I got it looking good. Urea, fertiliser and heaps of water. But since Winter it's just turned to shit with the weeds - no doubt seeds have been there from previous years.
I'll give the Brunnings Paspalum a shot. Would it be worth mowing, wait a few days then apply it? I got to the Winter grass a little too late, so I know I'm fucked next winter.
It's only 50-60sqm of lawn. I'll see how I go through summer and into next year, otherwise I may consider ripping it all up and starting from scratch.
HotAe92
18-10-2016, 01:10 PM
Sold to previous owner, not me :P
House was previously a rental, so I doubt the lawn had any real care in recent years. When I moved in early January, the lawn was almost dead (was on the market late spring/early summer, so got little or no water at all).
Within a few months of moving in I got it looking good. Urea, fertiliser and heaps of water. But since Winter it's just turned to shit with the weeds - no doubt seeds have been there from previous years.
I'll give the Brunnings Paspalum a shot. Would it be worth mowing, wait a few days then apply it? I got to the Winter grass a little too late, so I know I'm fucked next winter.
It's only 50-60sqm of lawn. I'll see how I go through summer and into next year, otherwise I may consider ripping it all up and starting from scratch.
Fair enough. Well sounds like you've done pretty well to get it to that point.
It's been a crap (good) season for weeds this year. Look anywhere and they are going gangbusters.
What I'm going to do next year, is hit my lawn with some Simazine (pre-emergent) in April to prevent any wintergrass, bindii, flatweeds etc from germinating.
dmwill
18-10-2016, 04:14 PM
What I'm going to do next year, is hit my lawn with some Simazine (pre-emergent) in April to prevent any wintergrass, bindii, flatweeds etc from germinating.
Where does one get that stuff from? $?
heavyduty1340
18-10-2016, 10:03 PM
Simazine - From Elders, Westfarmers etc - $$$$ plus $$$
dmanvan
18-10-2016, 10:48 PM
Crab grass. Someone sold you some quality roll-on.
Tribute (available from Landmark, Elders etc) will knock it on the head but it is a Group B (nasty) herbicide, and quite expensive.
this season I have found a broad spectrum herbicide that is buffalo friendly and some good ole fashion pulling....... to get the job done.... isnt so daunting when you split lawn into segments and do a section a day say 30mins..... just cleared a heap tonight under headlight and following spray a week ago the weeds certainly came out a lot easier....
.
dmwill
22-10-2016, 06:43 PM
Brunnings Paspalum looks like it might working.
Applied to entire lawn on Tuesday night.
Mowed low this morning, base of most weeds are yellow and dry. I had some bindi and clover there which has died off too.
Lawn definitely needs thickening. Might hold off on fertiliser until I do another run with the paspalum later this coming week.
Marti
23-10-2016, 12:53 PM
Hello all, iv just laid sir walter buffalo in my front yard( 2 weeks ago)after digging up the shit the developer laid , seems to be going well as im watering it 3 times a day for 10 mins, my questions is do I start mowing it now and fertilize it aswell ?( lawn place said fertilize 2 weeks from being rolled on )
Iv also done sections of my back yard and the rest I tore up and planted in other sections of the back yard in a hope of it growing over time , was that a wise idea ?
any help appreciated
thanks
urabus
23-10-2016, 07:55 PM
Hello all, iv just laid sir walter buffalo in my front yard( 2 weeks ago)after digging up the shit the developer laid , seems to be going well as im watering it 3 times a day for 10 mins, my questions is do I start mowing it now and fertilize it aswell ?( lawn place said fertilize 2 weeks from being rolled on )
Iv also done sections of my back yard and the rest I tore up and planted in other sections of the back yard in a hope of it growing over time , was that a wise idea ?
any help appreciated
thanks
Never mow buffalo low. Also use a rotary mower on it and not a reel mower.
Fertilising it after 2 weeks wont hurt it at all.
As for the stuff out the back im keen to see a photo. Did you use a turf cutter to pull up the old stuff?
Brendon
Marti
24-10-2016, 08:29 PM
no turf cutter just sat there with scissors to shop it into bits.
when should I first mow it ?
-Luke-
24-10-2016, 09:28 PM
Never mow buffalo low. Also use a rotary mower on it and not a reel mower.
why so?
HotAe92
24-10-2016, 10:52 PM
why so?
I'd hazard a guess in saying that it's got something to do with the chance of scalping the lawn if the sod is still loose? urabus can confirm/elaborate/throw it out with the dishwater.
catchya
25-10-2016, 06:53 AM
why so?
Because there is more adjustment in the height of the cut. Generally, Buffalo especially the new varieties grow faster and are healthier with a longer leaf.
The idea is to cut the top of leaf and mow often. Longer leaf means more sunlight is trapped for photosynthesis, lower ground evaporation, grows faster, stronger lawn blah blah blah....
Cutting short increases water evaporation, less leaf for photosynthesis, higher chance of lawn going into stress mode blah blah blah...
-Luke-
25-10-2016, 07:56 AM
Thanks Gents
FS 1 x Scott Bonnar Reel mower.
dmanvan
25-10-2016, 11:42 AM
Thanks Gents
FS 1 x Scott Bonnar Reel mower. /I will take of your hands for $50 or swap for a great 4 cyl running briggs and straton rotary mower.....
but seriously as long as you know the theory behind it (ie dont mow the buff.LOW....:D ) .... just set your reel mower on a higher setting....
I changed a year ago to a push reel mower as I found it was too easy for my minions (kids that mow my lawn) to cut to low as even on the right setting with a rotary mower if you are using too much leverage because you are shorter or have trouble pushing then to cause it to dig in...
With a reel mower it cuts to the height you set. So with the scotts push mower set on a high setting (like 4cm) it cuts to this all the time... ADVANTAGE of being a push mower is that we can also do it out of the heat of the day as it is relatively silent....:)
-Luke-
25-10-2016, 11:44 AM
The Reel mower shits me to tears. People in the early 70's must have been 2 foot shorter than people of today. I half bent over the whole time and im only 6ft.
180SXTCY
25-10-2016, 04:33 PM
Have been using a reel mower on my sir Walter for about a year or so and had no issues. As said set it to a decent cutting height, I have mine set to around 30ish mm. Also make sure the reel and Blade are sharp so you get a nice clean cut and not a tear like cut.
catchya
25-10-2016, 06:14 PM
Same here. I use a 28" mow master set on its highest setting which I think is around 20ml on my Sir Walter. Roughly 50 square metres of front verge.
Through down some fast release fertilizer, water in thoroughly..happy days.
When I can't be F..Ked, then the 23hp Kwaka powered 42" Toro comes out... looks from the neighbors is priceless
urabus
25-10-2016, 08:40 PM
Same here. I use a 28" mow master set on its highest setting which I think is around 20ml on my Sir Walter.
Mow master / dwyer and felton reel mower will go way over 50mm.
My comment on using a rotary as opposed to a reel mower is as per above in that for some reason peeps in WA seem to have a fascination for mowing turf at 10mm.
Make sure you use a catcher on buffalo to keep the thatch down.
Rotary's are also a whole lot less maintenance.
Brendon
iluv2moan
29-10-2016, 03:33 PM
What are peoples thoughts on drip line y underground irrigation systems for lawns? Apparently my lawn area is an odd shape which would require 10 or so pop ups in the lawn which i am not very keen on having.
Just ripped up 100m2 of shitty lawn which is to be replaced with santa ana
dmwill
30-10-2016, 10:23 AM
What are peoples thoughts on drip line y underground irrigation systems for lawns? Apparently my lawn area is an odd shape which would require 10 or so pop ups in the lawn which i am not very keen on having.
Probably wouldn't last in the long run.
The previous owner did something similar at my place (it's been disconnected at some point though). I only found out when the council dug a hole near the verge to plant a tree. It just crumbles to nothing.
I'm running retic next weekend. $200 for 11 sprinklers/joiners/elbows/etc. Still to get PVC.
urabus
30-10-2016, 03:22 PM
What are peoples thoughts on drip line y underground irrigation systems for lawns? Apparently my lawn area is an odd shape which would require 10 or so pop ups in the lawn which i am not very keen on having.
Its junk. You cant renovate the turf. You end up with green lines. You need to overhead water it while it is getting established. If it gets blocked your fingered. The first time you dont know its not working is when the turf starts dying.
If you have a bore you have to run the bore for too long.
0/10. Would not bang
Brendon
huggy_b
30-10-2016, 04:48 PM
Its junk. You cant renovate the turf. You end up with green lines. You need to overhead water it while it is getting established. If it gets blocked your fingered. The first time you dont know its not working is when the turf starts dying.
If you have a bore you have to run the bore for too long.
0/10. Would not bang
Brendon
And what credentials do you have to back that assertion? I've read 2 favourable articles from a Google search......
Racecar broke
urabus
30-10-2016, 06:28 PM
And what credentials do you have to back that assertion? I've read 2 favourable articles from a Google search......
Racecar broke
I suppose you use google to diagnose medical issues aswell proson?
HotAe92
31-10-2016, 08:19 AM
Its junk. You cant renovate the turf. You end up with green lines. You need to overhead water it while it is getting established. If it gets blocked your fingered. The first time you dont know its not working is when the turf starts dying.
If you have a bore you have to run the bore for too long.
0/10. Would not bang
Brendon
Underground irrigation is garbage, I shudder when I see it being installed. Good in theory, crap in practicality.
dmwill
10-11-2016, 09:38 AM
Going to be installing retic this weekend (proper popups, etc...not the drip stuff :P).
Obviously going to be digging out sections and placing them back. I know it will die off slightly, but is there anything I should do before or after?
Lawn is reasonable condition, couple of dead patches which are just stating to grow back (I mixed a little too much of that stuff to kill off the crab grass a month back).
180SXTCY
10-11-2016, 04:57 PM
Recently done the same dug some of my Retic up and split it up into smaller zones.
Just out down some dynamic lifter under the lawn before replanting it and give it plenty of water.
urabus
10-11-2016, 09:09 PM
Going to be installing retic this weekend (proper popups, etc...not the drip stuff :P).
Obviously going to be digging out sections and placing them back. I know it will die off slightly, but is there anything I should do before or after?
Lawn is reasonable condition, couple of dead patches which are just stating to grow back (I mixed a little too much of that stuff to kill off the crab grass a month back).
I dont care whether you buy anything off me or not but for fucks sake dont buy pop up sprinklers from bunnings. They are junk. The 'adjustable' nozzles on the toro 580's are so adjustable they adjust themselves. Everytime i am in there and see peope buying the junk i cringe.
In terms of the turf give it a good water before you pull it up. I dont think its going to be too hot this weekend but dont let it sit there for days. Ideally back in the ground the same day. When you backfill the hole stamp down on it a bit. You dont want it like concrete but you also dont want it subsiding. Also dont put it back so low you have to cover it with sand. If the levels are wrong wait until it takes again and then top dress it.
Brendon
rodent
10-11-2016, 09:18 PM
What sort of prices do retic shops charge for decent sprinklers urabus?
I've bought more expensive sprinklers from Bunnings this year and have been stoked with the results so far - but $10 a sprinkler for some of them is taking the piss I feel.
iluv2moan
10-11-2016, 09:44 PM
Alnost completed my gardwn bed retic last week. Bought all my stuff from perth irrigation supplies in welshpool. Doubt you will find a one stip shop thats cheaper.
Does anyone know the industry standards to dwtermine rates throw? I bought a shitload of 1.2 and 1.8m radius sprinklers and on risers approximately 500mm high they are throwing over 3m. System pressure is approximately 200kpa which is the optimal pressure.
I think im going to still gove the sub soil lawn irrigation a go but did install 3 brass impact sprinklers as backups just in case. In hindsight i probably could have just got away with the three impaxts for the whole entire back yard.
dmwill
10-11-2016, 10:58 PM
I dont care whether you buy anything off me or not but for fucks sake dont buy pop up sprinklers from bunnings. They are junk. The 'adjustable' nozzles on the toro 580's are so adjustable they adjust themselves. Everytime i am in there and see peope buying the junk i cringe.
In terms of the turf give it a good water before you pull it up. I dont think its going to be too hot this weekend but dont let it sit there for days. Ideally back in the ground the same day. When you backfill the hole stamp down on it a bit. You dont want it like concrete but you also dont want it subsiding. Also dont put it back so low you have to cover it with sand. If the levels are wrong wait until it takes again and then top dress it.
Brendon
Cheers. Sprinklers were from Bunnings, but not the cheapest ones and not the Toros...I'll see how it goes. Some have metal tops because Asian neighbours drive like shit. Will be setting those ones down a little lower with concrete surrounds.
It's like a fucking warzone going to the retic section at Bunnings at the moment....every pingpingpingping fighting to get in there and work out that connectors they need etc.
ossie_21
11-11-2016, 06:28 AM
A few weeks ago my backyard grass looked great, was coming along nicely after being laid out about 4 months ago.
Had the water exemption over winter then all retic had to be off until the water ban was over, been on twice a week since. Over the last couple of weeks though, roughly a third to half looks like it's dying/dead & other parts look fine :(. The patch that looks stuffed is the side that cops most of the sun so not sure if that has anything to do with it, but we haven't even hit summer yet. Any tips that might help save it? It weird because it's turned so quickly :(
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a118/ossie_21/Mobile%20Uploads/94F65ECE-40F0-483E-B953-677BAD9E840B_zpsq8tugduk.jpg
Anyone got ant turf hook ups?
iluv2moan
11-11-2016, 08:27 AM
I dont have a hookup however fwiw Im chasing santa ana and did a phone around and the mob up in carabooda (sp) was about 5 dollars a meter. The place down south near capel was around 8.
Sebdullah
11-11-2016, 08:28 AM
Nath, this might work for ya (depending on what the lawn is) as mine was looking very similar to yours at the end of winter & has now come up a treat
Give it a mow with the rotary not the cylinder. Palmetto grass suffers from being cut too short.
Then aerate the lawn, Fertilize with some soluble Urea and Dynamic lifter. Best to water in the fertilizers using the reticulation, not by hand.
2 weeks time, give it another dose of soluble Urea and dynamic lifter. Best to do it on your watering days.
Grass should be green as
Yeh ok, i was planning on using either empire zoysia or sir walter buffalo
HotAe92
11-11-2016, 09:53 AM
A few weeks ago my backyard grass looked great, was coming along nicely after being laid out about 4 months ago.
Had the water exemption over winter then all retic had to be off until the water ban was over, been on twice a week since. Over the last couple of weeks though, roughly a third to half looks like it's dying/dead & other parts look fine :(. The patch that looks stuffed is the side that cops most of the sun so not sure if that has anything to do with it, but we haven't even hit summer yet. Any tips that might help save it? It weird because it's turned so quickly :(
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a118/ossie_21/Mobile%20Uploads/94F65ECE-40F0-483E-B953-677BAD9E840B_zpsq8tugduk.jpg
It's interesting that you can still see the lines of the roll on after 4 odd months. It looks like it hasn't taken too well (i.e. roots established deep enough in the soil profile), and the extra bit of sun on that side is enough to stress it out.
Is the lawn on one station? How long are you watering for?
There is still life there, hit the dry patch hard with liquid soil wetter and seasol, and hand water that piece one once a week if you can. Review in a fortnight
Just installed 36sqm of Sir Walter Buffalo last weekend. Generous application of NPK Red & Sir Launcher under turf before laying.
Came up mint and still looking just as good as install
https://scontent.fmel2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14910436_10154324250153705_6131662904296253588_n.j pg?oh=b5469fc4997f268dcd8152f8eae010e8&oe=58961D5C
Turf obtained from 'Back to Eden' who I found off Gumtree. Price for 36sqm of Turf, NPK Red & Sir Launcher delivered was $540.
hostage_85
11-11-2016, 10:15 AM
Yeh, I'm having a similar problem with my back lawn, Has been going Gangbusters all year. Couple of dry days (Not even hot) and a section is going like this. Fricken Annoying.
Started running a Standard hose sprinkler in addition to the retic on it for extra water, and going to get some Urea down this weekend.
evoeata
11-11-2016, 11:27 AM
mine did the same. i hired a lawn corer to get some water down to the roots, threw a heap of urea on it and have been giving it a water in the morning and arvo on my watering days, and a quick hand water the others. its come back awesome so far. few brown spots but overall its green again
catchya
11-11-2016, 05:18 PM
It's interesting that you can still see the lines of the roll on after 4 odd months. It looks like it hasn't taken too well (i.e. roots established deep enough in the soil profile), and the extra bit of sun on that side is enough to stress it out.
Is the lawn on one station? How long are you watering for?
There is still life there, hit the dry patch hard with liquid soil wetter and seasol, and hand water that piece one once a week if you can. Review in a fortnight
Just to add to piece of good advice, you could even add a layer of lawn top soil, water it like crazy as mentioned above and in about 3 weeks time buy some slow release fertilizer such as scotts extreme green which is high in iron.
Keep the water up to it though
DRKWRX
11-11-2016, 05:50 PM
Sir Walter Buffalo has been down a year now, gets sun all day every day, fertilizer and urea a couple weeks back.
https://s14.postimg.org/gqiwrjec1/grassweb.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/4onixe53h/)photo uploading (https://postimage.org/)
MadDocker
11-11-2016, 07:06 PM
Looks mint. Mines absolutely fucked at the moment. Pisses me off everytime I see it. Thinking about ripping it all up and starting again.
Brett_J
11-11-2016, 07:26 PM
Top dressed my lawns this week, front needed some hardcore levelling up, but as I added some Lime and Urea the week before and Fertilised it 2 weeks ago, it's super green and roaring, gonna have to mow it 2 times a week in no time.
urabus
11-11-2016, 09:40 PM
Cheers. Sprinklers were from Bunnings, but not the cheapest ones and not the Toros...I'll see how it goes. Some have metal tops because Asian neighbours drive like shit. Will be setting those ones down a little lower with concrete surrounds.
If you have peeps driving on the lawns get some of these.
http://www.olsonirrigation.com/PROD/OISEZEL/OISezel.html
They are about $1 ea and you need the "ez tube" but it means you lose the nipple, you can put the sprinkler hard against a footpath or kerb and the sprinkler has some 'give' if it gets run over. Also doesnt really matter if your pipe work is a bit shallow meaning you can run bigger sprinklers and bury them a bit. They dont get used in domestic because a 15mm nipple is about $0.10c and two of those and hose is probably the best part of $4 per sprinkler.
In terms of sprinkler costs we can pay anywhere from $2 to about $6k for a single sprinkler. In terms of the domestic type pop ups we get charged the same for the 2,3 and 4" pop ups. 6" get a bit dearer and the 12" are a lot dearer. A golf course sprinkler with the solenoid valve in each sprinkler is about $300.
Toro for example make about 150 different nozzles from memory. Bunnings try and get you to make do with 1. Nuff said. Nozzles range in cost from the normal 8,10,12 & 15 feet nozzles at about $1.50 ea through to about $10 for the mp rotators.
In case you didnt pick up on it get a real bee in my bonnet about the toro 580 sprinklers that bunnings sell. They wanted what all the commercial guys get which is the 570. Being bunnings they wanted it exclusive. So toro said no but we can give you a better sprinkler than the 570. We can give you a 580..... the 580 is complete china junk. The spring is shit, the dirt seal is nasty and they dont accept standard toro nozzles. And bunnings charge almost as much as full rip retail irrigation stores.
Brendon
2LMILK
12-11-2016, 05:45 AM
I had mp rotators in both front and back but being in ellenbrook the water pressure is piss poor (mains)
I swapped them out to normal heads for some and the gear drives aswell in the corners, seems alot better but getting some dry patchs. Not sure if it water related or if its to heavey top dressing and its burnt the turn
Buffalo BTW
skinkis
12-11-2016, 07:42 AM
My front lawn is looking tragic.
I would assume it needs to be aerated as the water pretty much just flows straight off it.
Had a quick look at Bunnings website, is there another tool that could be used as I could see this taking a fair while?
https://www.bunnings.com.au/cyclone-tubular-steel-lawn-aerator_p3360722
Evman
12-11-2016, 07:55 AM
You can hire aerators. The petrol powered ones are around $100/day when I last hired one, but it made short work of the lawn. Didn't really go as deep as I'd have liked though
urabus
12-11-2016, 08:53 PM
My front lawn is looking tragic.
I would assume it needs to be aerated as the water pretty much just flows straight off it.
Had a quick look at Bunnings website, is there another tool that could be used as I could see this taking a fair while?
https://www.bunnings.com.au/cyclone-tubular-steel-lawn-aerator_p3360722
There are a few of these floating around perth.
http://www.toro.com.au/product/30-762-cm-stand-on-aerator-23518?c3=aerators
Pretty primitive but the best one i have seen this side of a $30k golf course jobbie.
See if yOu cant find a hire mob and get a few mates to go in and do half a dozen houses in a day. Work out cheap as.
Brendon
DRKWRX
12-11-2016, 08:59 PM
do you need to aerate buffalo???
At the risk of enraging Brendon.... Every summer ill blow a few sprinkler internals clean out of the ground because my bore pump has the power of 1000 suns, I just go down to bunnings and buy the cheapest adjustable ones i can find (usually pope) and put them back in the hole. Should I be looking to reduce the pressure or buy better sprinklers?. There is only a ball valve in line with the bore and im not keen on restricting the flow there.. seems like a bad idea.
180SXTCY
13-11-2016, 08:47 AM
Most pop up sprinklers have a maximum pressure rating of around 150-200 kpa from memory. If your bore pump is exceeding this doesn't matter wat sprinkler you use, you will blow them up.
You should ideally check the output pressure and if necessary fit an adjustable pressure reducing valve so that you're within the safe working limits of the sprinklers.
2LMILK
13-11-2016, 04:26 PM
URABUS
you dont have to live in ellenbrook by any chance do you? i see one of ya vans in annies landing all the time
urabus
13-11-2016, 08:00 PM
At the risk of enraging Brendon.... Every summer ill blow a few sprinkler internals clean out of the ground because my bore pump has the power of 1000 suns, I just go down to bunnings and buy the cheapest adjustable ones i can find (usually pope) and put them back in the hole. Should I be looking to reduce the pressure or buy better sprinklers?. There is only a ball valve in line with the bore and im not keen on restricting the flow there.. seems like a bad idea.. Closing the ball valve bit will reduce the flow but not the pressure. You need to do a flow test on the bore and then work out how much water your sprinklers are letting out. It not good for the bore to not be able to put out all the water it is designed to.
Most controllers will open a couple of valves at the same time. I.e you can group a couple of turf valves together and use more water.
You can put a pressure regulator inline but you wont be doing the pump any favours.
URABUS
you dont have to live in ellenbrook by any chance do you? i see one of ya vans in annies landing all the time
Nah. One of my guys. We look after the estate for LWP before they hand it back to city of swan.
Brendon
Just sorting out my base soils for the lawn. I am planning on removing 100mm of the river sand that is currently under my lawn. Landscape supplier has recommended filling the first 50mm with a cheap yellow sand and filling the top 50mm with a landscape mix, reason being the yellow sand is about half the price of the landscape mix and has a good clay content for holding moisture. I need close to 20cubes.
Am i destinded to fail by cheaping out with the yellow sand?
Another thing i noticed is landscape soil and special lawn mix are exactly the same price. Should i just stick to the landscape mix or would i be stupid not to go with the lawn mix? My local supplier up in mundaring only has the landscape mix so would have to source the lawn mix elsewhere.
Landscape mix
Https://www.soilsaintsoils.com.au/Our-Products/Soils-(Perth-metro-prices)/Landscape-Mix.aspx
Lawn mix
https://www.soilsaintsoils.com.au/Our-Products/Soils-(Perth-metro-prices)/Special-Lawn-Mix.aspx
Brett_J
17-11-2016, 09:04 AM
Just sorting out my base soils for the lawn. I am planning on removing 100mm of the river sand that is currently under my lawn. Landscape supplier has recommended filling the first 50mm with a cheap yellow sand and filling the top 50mm with a landscape mix, reason being the yellow sand is about half the price of the landscape mix and has a good clay content for holding moisture. I need close to 20cubes.
Am i destinded to fail by cheaping out with the yellow sand?
Another thing i noticed is landscape soil and special lawn mix are exactly the same price. Should i just stick to the landscape mix or would i be stupid not to go with the lawn mix? My local supplier up in mundaring only has the landscape mix so would have to source the lawn mix elsewhere.
Landscape mix
Https://www.soilsaintsoils.com.au/Our-Products/Soils-(Perth-metro-prices)/Landscape-Mix.aspx
Lawn mix
https://www.soilsaintsoils.com.au/Our-Products/Soils-(Perth-metro-prices)/Special-Lawn-Mix.aspx
The only issue I've seen with Landscape mix is sometimes it has all sorts of shit in it like small rocks and bark and shit.
Both will be fine on top of the yellow sand though.
iluv2moan
17-11-2016, 02:04 PM
Is your local Hills Lanscaping? Was up there a few weeks ago and they had the lawn mix. Apparently the lawn mix is just a blend of sands and basically chicken manure. From the people I have spoke to, most people just recommended using soil conditioners and plenty or organic matters such as manures to improve the existing soil rather then just adding a layer of lawn mix which the lawn will suck all the goodness out in a matter of no time.
Just sorting out my base soils for the lawn. I am planning on removing 100mm of the river sand that is currently under my lawn. Landscape supplier has recommended filling the first 50mm with a cheap yellow sand and filling the top 50mm with a landscape mix, reason being the yellow sand is about half the price of the landscape mix and has a good clay content for holding moisture. I need close to 20cubes.
Am i destinded to fail by cheaping out with the yellow sand?
Another thing i noticed is landscape soil and special lawn mix are exactly the same price. Should i just stick to the landscape mix or would i be stupid not to go with the lawn mix? My local supplier up in mundaring only has the landscape mix so would have to source the lawn mix elsewhere.
Landscape mix
[url]Https://www.soilsaintsoils.com.au/Our
DRKWRX
17-11-2016, 03:01 PM
Im looking at prepping the rear yard of my place for grass as well, so you can pretty much just flatten it out and mix some manure on it? I reckon the estate landscapers did fuck all with the front when they laid our grass and thats still going mint after a year.
HotAe92
17-11-2016, 03:09 PM
Depends on where you're located and what the soil is like that you're starting with, but I'd throw down some dynamic lifter, bentonite clay and soil wetter as a minimum to give it half a chance.
DRKWRX
17-11-2016, 03:11 PM
Im on the foothills, block was filled with darker yellow dirt, cheers for the tips, the back yard would be the same as what the front was.
dmwill
17-11-2016, 06:22 PM
After trenching last weekend for retic, I truly know why my lawn sucks.
It's basically been put on top of building rubble and gravel (redevelopment block...used rpdata to find a picture of the original house, full wog spec driveway/turning circle, etc).
urabus
17-11-2016, 10:00 PM
Just sorting out my base soils for the lawn. I am planning on removing 100mm of the river sand that is currently under my lawn. Landscape supplier has recommended filling the first 50mm with a cheap yellow sand and filling the top 50mm with a landscape mix, reason being the yellow sand is about half the price of the landscape mix and has a good clay content for holding moisture. I need close to 20cubes.
Am i destinded to fail by cheaping out with the yellow sand?
Landscape mix
Https://www.soilsaintsoils.com.au/Our-Products/Soils-(Perth-metro-prices)/Landscape-Mix.aspx[/url]
Only issue with landscape mix is if it has any organics in it. I.e they will naturally degrade over time and you might end up with some subsidence (look at elisabeth quay as an example). Not a massive issue if its only 100mm though.
If you are keen and dont mind a bit of dirty work go and get some free horse shit from the stables behind performance west in ascot and rotary hoe that shit in. Horrible job but works mint.
Brendon
hostage_85
18-11-2016, 01:03 PM
After trenching last weekend for retic, I truly know why my lawn sucks.
It's basically been put on top of building rubble and gravel (redevelopment block...used rpdata to find a picture of the original house, full wog spec driveway/turning circle, etc).
I think thats the problem I'm having with one section of my lawn, Its right on the Fence edge, but when I try and dig down all I get is Rubble from the road (I'm on a corner block). Think i'd have to pick axe the shit out to fix it... Sigh
Brett_J
19-11-2016, 12:46 PM
Lawn is getting there for Summer
Top dressed it on the 8th of this month, cut it with the neighbours reel mower twice, will use my rotary mower once the sand is 100% grown over.
Excuse the Garden beds, next on the list
http://i66.tinypic.com/fuwcg5.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/9axzkw.jpg
http://i66.tinypic.com/33k4nsn.jpg
The front will take a lot longer, it was uneven as fuck
http://i63.tinypic.com/5vrijb.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/29m3ak4.jpg
tinto
19-11-2016, 09:53 PM
Good effort - looks great!
What material did you top dress with?
Brett_J
19-11-2016, 10:00 PM
Good effort - looks great!
What material did you top dress with?
Looks like shit brickies sand but its Lawn Mix, for the first few days when watering it, it smelt like dwellingup river or similar, must have some river mud mixed in. Lawns loved it anyway :)
karnage
21-11-2016, 03:38 PM
I have this one section of lawn that just won't bloody grow. Its been fertilized with the rest of the lawn about 4-5 weeks ago, the rest of the lawn is now growing nicely but at a loss for this patch.
I've just fenced it off to work out if dog is pissing in the spot constantly but its a decent size area. I used Scotts Lawn Builder for fertiliser. Any suggestions?
https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15178081_10154750417392743_7040427445946327404_n.j pg?oh=bf418730cacdac5c12a43e7460081e6b&oe=58D4E25A
Torquen
23-11-2016, 09:43 AM
Extend the paving.
huggy_b
23-11-2016, 10:03 AM
Green concrete looks natural.
urabus
23-11-2016, 04:07 PM
Would of cost more in mesh and star pickets than to replace it with a couple of rolls from bunnings.
Brendon
Im new to this whole lawn thing. Just had some buffalo installed today, is there anything i should do to make sure it takes properly? Or just water for now.
dmwill
30-11-2016, 11:01 AM
Worth noting you can get an exemption from the rostered sprinkler days if you have a new lawn..
https://www.watercorporation.com.au/save-water/watering-days/exemptions
Yep already done, watering 3 times a day until i notice the joins growing in. Nothing i should spray over it to give it a head start? It was all done by the estate so not sure how much prep work they would have done.
crabman
30-11-2016, 01:41 PM
I have about 130sqm of dead lawn (fresh green coming through since mowing as it was all dead weeds about 50cm high, dat FIFO life) and about another 15sqm of sand. Say I wanted to get this entire place lawned up but it has to do it's own thing for 3 weeks at a time due to work, should I bother or wait until I have housemates in to water/fertilize? I was thinking of leveling it all and where high patches come off of the lawn patch just hacking it up and working it into the sand patch (ghetto seeding). As shit as the lawn is, it has just started sending out masive new sections into the sand area (some 12 inches of longer).
DRKWRX
30-11-2016, 01:47 PM
Buffalo would be alright with no attention 3 weeks at a time I reckon just with regular watering, Does anyone know the cheapest place to get Sir Walter Buffalo at the moment? will be laying 140sqm in the next couple weeks! out the back.
Ko[R]uPt
30-11-2016, 10:02 PM
Im new to this whole lawn thing. Just had some buffalo installed today, is there anything i should do to make sure it takes properly? Or just water for now.
Seasol weekly and molasses fortnightly, and i put sand over the gaps and stressed areas. The edges browned off and i was nervous and wondering if it'll ever grow. Not saying what i did is exactly right, but it worked for me.
Picture shows 9 days after laying and then 3.5 weeks later (21 Dec - 15 Jan).
http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s497/xelaoahc/A024E71F-D999-4179-96B9-62498F80C05D.jpg~original
If only my lawn looks as lush as that now!!
huggy_b
01-12-2016, 06:30 AM
Molasses is the business.
Pour some in a watering can and then spray it with a hose to mix it with the water as you fill it and tip it all over your plants as well.
Sebdullah
01-12-2016, 09:32 AM
molasses??? As in the sugar stuff?
dmwill
01-12-2016, 09:59 AM
Is there a selective killer for Couch grass out there?
I have a shit load popping up under the mulch in an adjacent garden bed. I can only rip so much out as it's growing all through the shrubs, etc. I continually go along the edge of the lawn with a spade quite deep to avoid any new runners.
Other thought was to rip out the shrubs, rake back the mulch and go nuts with Zero or Roundup a couple of times, then start from scratch again with new shrubs. But that seems like too much effort!
Ko[R]uPt
01-12-2016, 10:06 AM
molasses??? As in the sugar stuff?
Yes, but buy the not-food-grade (cheaper) stuff from agricultural suppliers
HotAe92
01-12-2016, 10:47 AM
Is there a selective killer for Couch grass out there?
I have a shit load popping up under the mulch in an adjacent garden bed. I can only rip so much out as it's growing all through the shrubs, etc. I continually go along the edge of the lawn with a spade quite deep to avoid any new runners.
Other thought was to rip out the shrubs, rake back the mulch and go nuts with Zero or Roundup a couple of times, then start from scratch again with new shrubs. But that seems like too much effort!
Yes, there are grass-selective herbicides available (Fusilade, Quiz and versions thereof) however they are much more expensive than roundup.
Regardless of whether you use a selective herbicide or not, it will keep throwing runners into the garden bed - that's just how couch grows.
The only way to control it, is to spray regularly and stay on top of the invasion. You can wick-wipe with roundup, or use a cone over the top of your spray nozzle if you're worried about accidentally spraying your plants.
DRKWRX
01-12-2016, 12:33 PM
got my molasses from stockfeeds, pretty sure horse people put it in the horses food to make their coats shiny, 2 litre bottle was only a couple bucks goes a long way too!
urabus
02-12-2016, 08:17 AM
If anyone hasn't sorted their sprinklers yet I had a look at some pricing for you pingpingpings.
The 2, 3 & 4" pop ups all cost us the same so choose your weapon.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g161/urabus99_photos/th_13d33722-98ad-471e-b5e2-f07175f120a8_zpsmzpfe0l5.jpg (http://s56.photobucket.com/user/urabus99_photos/media/13d33722-98ad-471e-b5e2-f07175f120a8_zpsmzpfe0l5.jpg.html)
You will also need a couple of 'ezy' elbows and some funny pipe and a nozzle.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g161/urabus99_photos/th_20161202_0702291_zpsgimp5zgp.jpg (http://s56.photobucket.com/user/urabus99_photos/media/20161202_0702291_zpsgimp5zgp.jpg.html)
I have allowed 1m of funny pipe per sprinkler so you can get right into a corner or up against a kerb etc.
The nozzles have different colours on them to denote the throw. Black is 15 foot. Brown is 12 foot, blue is 10 foot etc. If you want to have a look at a nozzle chart have a look here.
http://www.toro.com.au/media/9672/570-mpr-series-fixed-arc-nozzles-performance-data.pdf
Cost for 1x sprinkler, 1x nozzle, 2x ezy elbows, 1x 1m of pipe is $9.50 if you want to pick it up from Canningvale. If you want it delivered pep charge me about $7 for next day.
Thanks
Brendon
Got it done finally. Ended up using the emerald kikuyu seeds with a mixture of fertilser and soil wetter with a special lawn mix base. Pretty excited to see what its lioe in 5 months.
http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p498/tonydavies1/20161201_182912_zpslfmfjykh.jpg (http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/tonydavies1/media/20161201_182912_zpslfmfjykh.jpg.html)
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