View Full Version : Manual conversion... good idea???
Philthy
12-10-2005, 08:01 PM
i know some people on here have done manual conversions on their rb20 32s. i am lookin at a 32 and am wondering wat the costs are to do a manual conversion? also wat boxes can i use??? ive heard rb25s can be done... if so how much? is it as reliable and mechanically sound as a manual??? any pointers u have are much appreciated
cheers
phil
Jazza
13-10-2005, 12:58 AM
rb25 box's are tough as nails, if you can afford the $1k++ price tag grab one for sure!!
Otherwise a standard rb20 box will give you no hassels below 300hp. Find a decently priced box, together with labour and clutch you maybe able to pull off around $2000 mark at a well known place depending on clutch choice of course!
kamakazi
13-10-2005, 10:18 AM
im doin a 25 conversion ill let u know how i go
Philthy
13-10-2005, 04:05 PM
cheers man the reason i ask is cause i really want my import and im prepared to get auto to get it earlier and convert it i was thinkin a 25 box ive heard they are tops... chears fellas... any other input is of course appreciated.
Brockas
13-10-2005, 05:01 PM
Stay Auto. Quick in a straight line. 100% dedication to the cause.
pshrdeta
13-10-2005, 10:03 PM
remember the ecu will need changing to a manual as the autos are designed to retard timing and create smoother gear changes and stuff
kamakazi
14-10-2005, 11:45 AM
yer 25 kits are hard as nails to find hey atm sum guy want 3k just for the box with the kit... if anyone knows where i can find one now lol it would be heaps of help... if u want a manual get one they are much more fun then autos... who goes in a straight line anyways... lol j/k. nah the reason im changing to manual is that the auto rb20 boxes are quiet week and are prone to breaking.
SimonR32
14-10-2005, 11:52 AM
Stay Auto. Quick in a straight line. 100% dedication to the cause.
32's are performance cars... not line barges that only go in straight lines :flipa:
Brockas
14-10-2005, 03:33 PM
You're right, 32 GT-R's are performance cars, not their watered down little brothers ;) ahahaha
100% fake GT-R
Philthy
14-10-2005, 03:49 PM
watered down? ... im sure this coming from a soarer driver has some pun in it i just cant put my finger on it :flipa:
anchors away eye eye captain
sounds too expensive to convert and too much ****in around prob best i just buy manual :boink:
kamakazi
14-10-2005, 04:09 PM
hey im sure as hell my gtst will beat alot of 32 and 33 gtrs on the road when i get the car bak hahahaha
kamakazi
14-10-2005, 04:15 PM
go the 25box if u want sumthin tough and are plannin on goin down the rb25 transplant path
ataris32
14-10-2005, 06:54 PM
I'm looking into the manual conversions too, everyone has a different idea, some ppl hav had problems after converting from auto to manual, maybe its not worth the risk? might be better to wait for a manual?
can be done in under 6 hours and is an easy job to do...
remember the ecu will need changing to a manual as the autos are designed to retard timing and create smoother gear changes and stuff
didnt think this was a problem in nissans
i ran auto ecu in my manual skyline no probs
and i know others who have done the same
AntonRX
16-10-2005, 10:48 AM
i have an auto in my r32 and once i have installed the injector and AFM and rom tune should have 300hp or more. Biggest problem with the auto is from a standing start its slow specially since i have a hiflow turbo. I think you can use the auto ecu too cause it has another small little computer thingo on the drivers side kick panel for the auto.
Don't know how long the auto will last with 300hp though and i wouldn't bother getting the rb20 gearbox would just brake i recon, and r33 gearbox i am told cause be around 3k for the job maybe more.
i dont think you'll see 300 atw through your auto box. It sure as hell wont last with 300 thats for sure.....
i have done the manual conversion in my 32 and it roughly cost $2500 to do with a 32 box.
$1300 for box, tail shaft, interior trim pannels, flywheel and pedal box
$600 for extreme 9 puck clutch with a 2500 pound presure plate (the standerd plate rebuilt) flywheel machined and new spigot bush. this was from ross at autoclutch in osborne park
$500-600 for fitting depending on who you choose to do it
i have also fitted the manual ecu and it made a difference to the way the car drove, it's alot smoother in the revs closer to limiter and repsonds better to mods. also the timing will need to be changed when the conversion is done.
cheers
Adam
R34 box conversion cost me a bit
one times r34 rb25 box
one times nismo twin plate clutch
one times tailshaft
one times ecu
all the lines pedals cables etc etc <-- this is the hardest part
labour
thats a retail investment of 5000 dollars.....
AntonRX
16-10-2005, 04:21 PM
it should be pritty close to 300hp i recon if it doesn't reach it. Has a GCG stage 2 hi flow r33 turbo.
I think i know a guy selling a r33 gearbox for 500 is that a good price?
Milhouse
16-10-2005, 04:47 PM
lol yes ! :D
buy it.
MrMayhem
16-10-2005, 06:06 PM
R33 25det box is worth around $1500
even a R33 RB25de box is worth more than $500 so hunt it up
[RX2]
17-10-2005, 10:54 AM
in answer to your question, yes its a good idea! haha
doriae86
17-10-2005, 03:26 PM
i got a silver sedan on its way
hoping to get 4999 provide demand remains strong like it is now
Philthy
19-10-2005, 11:20 AM
oh an btw im looking to run somewhere between 270-330ish hp so i know eventually im going to have to upgrade box, clutch etc. 5k for tjs conversion considering the quality parts used isnt too bad. wat kinda hp can a auto box withstand??? im thinkin HKS gt25/40 on it with the extras. At wat powa would u advise the manual conversion????
vl-cam
02-11-2005, 11:37 AM
You can use any hardware from either R32, C33, and obviously A31, or because most stuff is hard to find now, you can use R33 or U12-U13 Bluebird clutch and master cylinder, however, the top mounting bracket will need to be altered to fit the A31/C33, on the R33 master cylinder the shaft will need to be lengthed slightly to reach the pedal, U12 stuff will need the same except for mods on the master cylinder.
when the trans is removed and in the round filing cabnit, remove flexi plate. Go to your local Nissan dealer and get a spigot bush that'll cost
8-9 dollars in hard earned caaaaaassssssshh, (put that in the motor that you'll be keeping as you can only use it once) and when you insert it do it with a piece of wood as its made of bronze and softer that ya hammer
and you'll turn it into a toad stol if you don't use ya wood, fit your flywheel
clutch and all that crap, stick ya box on,(once you have removed the cher auto shifter, you'll find only 2 holes will line up on the cross member(just)
so you can either modify it(thats what I did) or get a S13/S14 manual x member (bolt in fit to ex auto cefiros)
with the drive shaft, its 2 piece so undo the front half then send it to that
round cabnit that gets picked up once a week
source a manual drive shaft from a R32 undo the front piece then undo the big bolt inside,(very difficuilt) and take the flange off and fit to the rear part of the cefiro shaft, bolt up the R32 front section, then CHER you have an manual drive shaft, because the chances of finding a manual cefiro are slim, the other option is to find a VL commodore shaft, chop the yolk off that, and weld to your auto shaft
now for the inside remove the to cool foot/handbrake, 3 6mm bolts, then in the engine bay remove the little cover which is where the clutch master cylinder will go undo all the brake cables and pull out that dumb thing plus the release lever from the consol, send to the plastic filing cabnit with wheels that you tow behind your car late on saturday night,
you'll need to get the handbrake mounting bracket off a r32 from the wreckers that will have to be de spotted by drilling the spot welds
so with a R32 handbrake and front cable, drill and slot the hole where the cable goes through the floor, its maked ot on the body already but covered in sealer, feed cable through and this will tell you where to weld the h/b bracket, modification to the cables will depend if you are running R32 rear hubs or not there are lots of different ways of doing it but its hard to explain with out pointing out the differences
the clutch pedal will fit in where you took the foot/ H/B out fit the master cylinder connect it up. then connect up the fluid line,(you may in most cases have to get one made if the conversion came from a GTS-T since that interferes with HICAS lines) do all the fluids connect up reverse wires
now the dam thing won't start, get the inhibtor switch off the trans, hook that back up put it in Nuetral, start the bitch then your electrical skills will be needed to find the 2 positive wires going through the inhibitor, (plug located behind the battery, the one with only 2 wires is the one to link up)
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