ls2 otr

[DenZel]

looking at purchasing an otr for my ls2 clubsport

is there any brand i should stay away from? any brand that has been proven to better?

plastic otr compared to metal?

Would rather buy one 2nd to save a a few bucks, so looking through gumtree etc, but have no idea what is good and what isnt (so many on the market)

and how hard are they to install? beside the otr, what other parts are nedded, what else needs modifying?

cheers

[wormbo2]

Don't quite me on this, but I'd say a plastic/fibreglass/CF unit would suffer less heat-soak.
They look a bit shitter, but if you're looking to pretty up the engine bay, not much goes past nice polished aluminium parts! :)

Most kits should come with a large silicone/rubber hose to connect TB to OTR, otherwise a quick eBay search might prove well. Also hose clamps to secure said hose.

As mentioned in SAVAGE1987's similar thread, radiator may need to be tweaked back to allow the mouth to sit right in the engine bay.

Installation will need to include a MAFLESS tune. Or it won't run. Google it if you're not sure why.
Relatively straight forward to install, again^^^ that's done generally at the same time. (Can mail order, eBay)

Depending on location, the small sensor (Air temp?) along the intake hose may need to have the wiring extended to fit into the new, further away hole on the OTR housing.

Google will be your best friend with this job, its a fantastic mod, just do some homework on the req's. if all else fails....
Send it to Formula Tech...... ;)








dont send it to Formula Tech....ever.

[DenZel]

yeh, ill be getting it tuned either way, just would rather purchase and supply one to save a few bucks while im at it.

[Bomber]

Many places do packages, hardly worth buying 2nd hand. Active Automotive do OTR and tune packages from $1200. Similar price at WA Performance. OTR also come in MAF versions if you want to keep it, but they don't get good results compared to MAFless. Brands which come recommended are VCM (alloy and CF/plastic) or DUSpeed which cost a bit more but look fantastic in front of the old pushrod dinosaurs :D

[H1GHROLLR]

Duspeed or VCM

That is all.

[SSICK]

i have a metal VCM one that you could purchase for $350. they are $550 new i think.

[Tre-Cool]

pretty sure vcm are the only ones that sell the metal ones, duspeed is fibreglass, cheap ebay ones are generally plastic.

u say ls2 clubsport, so im not sure if it's a ve, if it's then the vcm plastic one is pretty much the standard now, but you have the gm motorsport that fits both ve and pre-ve but i've heard of issues with them.

[Turbo2.6L]

Metal will stay hotter for longer & thus expose the car to a little heat soak if bonnet is down & there is minimal airflow to cool it down, say if in the lanes at motorplex or at a set of lights. Once driving though, temps will be back to normal.
Plastic can get very maluable after a while of sitting in a hot engine bay & in turn, start to fold in on itself under WOT. This means you are not sucking in as much air as possible due to limited space compared to conventional OTR & lose performance.
Carbon Fibre VCM ones don't get as hot as metal ones & don't go soft like plastic. They seem to be the best out of all the materials used, but unsure if they do them for VE??

I have VCM metal OTR's on both of my LS powered cars but am keen to try a CF one on the race car as it seems like the best of both worlds.

[Evman]

I had the aluminium VCM OTR before going the blower and would recommend it, with this modification though; (a post I wrote on another forum)


http://www.aces.rwkw.com/Random/IAT%20locations.jpg

The top left is the original place I moved it to. The lower section (filled by a grommet) is the second and the position the IAT sensor is in was the last. My testing was basic at best but it highlighted the better position IMO. It was done along a 5km stretch of 70km/h road with 2 traffic lights, travelled both directions for each location test. Approximate ambient temp range was 23-24 degreesC.

With the sensor in the base of the OTR the sensor wiring had be be extended. This is the only location I tried that requires an extension, all other positions can be reached comfortably by adjusting the loom in various positions (mainly behind the L/H headlight). The idea behind this location was to remove as many parallel sources of radiant heat, so the only area it should be getting heat from is the base (which has self-adhesive foam on the outer section). This was the worst position I tested but was still better than "standard". The temperature would not drop below 30deg while cruising, but strangely it was quite slow to increase in temperature during idle. Overall of the 3 places, the worst.

Second I tried the position that the sensor is in. In this position the sensor runs parallel and close to the base of the OTR but is in what we could assume to be the strongest airflow. Here the temperature cruising dropped to 28deg, but it suffered the worst from idle heatsoak. It did however also drop the quickest, suggesting the airflow definitely is the strongest here. Overall, second best position.

Lastly I put the sensor back into the position I moved it to first. Here it runs parallel and close to the top of the OTR and I assume it has good airflow due to the position and rate of temperature drop. Here it went to 27 degrees cruising, but took what I think was just a little longer to drop. The intake was arguably the hottest on this test. IMO this is the best position that I tested.

If I had the room I'd move the sensor closer to the neck of the OTR to get it into a stronger airflow again (in theory), but leave it in the top half of the OTR. While the temps didn't drop to bang on ambient (I'm getting ambient from 3 different weather websites as I don't have an ambient sensor) the first (and last) position I tried gets the closest. Remembering that these were only short trips it's likely the temps would drop with more driving. Previous tests I have done have showed my first and final position to usually get within 2 degrees of ambient. As far as I'm concerned it's close enough and good enough for me. Without a doubt it's far better than the "standard" position.

Just make sure you get it tuned with it in that location so that any adjustments can be made to suit (I'm not a tuner but AFR drift due to heatsoak can be compensated for somehow).

If it's a VE just go the plastic VCM one (it's actually very high quality from most accounts).

[stumps.]

I had a metal House of Power one on my old car. It heated up quick as said above but also cooled very quick with air flow.

There have been plenty of tests on ls1 between the different brands. If i had my time again i would get a dusspeed or VCM (one of the factory looking ones).

They all do the same thing in reality.

[James_2007]

i have one of the carbon ones i have had for a few years now. not a single problem with it. no cracks or weak points.
got it from Wa Performance when they done the car

http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/331009_10150502101805940_147895001_o.jpg



Metal will stay hotter for longer & thus expose the car to a little heat soak if bonnet is down & there is minimal airflow to cool it down, say if in the lanes at motorplex or at a set of lights. Once driving though, temps will be back to normal.
Plastic can get very maluable after a while of sitting in a hot engine bay & in turn, start to fold in on itself under WOT. This means you are not sucking in as much air as possible due to limited space compared to conventional OTR & lose performance.
Carbon Fibre VCM ones don't get as hot as metal ones & don't go soft like plastic. They seem to be the best out of all the materials used, but unsure if they do them for VE??

I have VCM metal OTR's on both of my LS powered cars but am keen to try a CF one on the race car as it seems like the best of both worlds.

[DenZel]

yeh ill be going to wa perf, booked in for tuesday

be interesting to see if it has a "mild cam" or not, as the last owner swear it had one, but no proof of it.