Looking to build my first home. After advice, references, info.

[180SXTCY]

looks like I need to go get my mow on!

[regi]

just burn it

[ENYXR]

I just signed up with homestart and loan through keystart

I applied for keystart on a monday and had pre-approval by thursday

ENYXR which estate?

We were going to look in Whiteman Edge but have decided to put getting a house on hold for now.

[Aristoman]

Ive built 3 homes thru Homestart, had a few issues but nothing overly stress worthy.

Good thing with H-Start or used to be, they would give you every conceivable extra ie: alarm / floor coverings / tiles / laminate etc,etc.

Not sure whats changed now but id recommend them again. Sold 2 off and have one in Baldivis as a rental in good park location.

Used to have a rep as being cheap and nasty & for people on a budget but shit has changed along with perceptions. Part of Bucko's BGC group....

[matty12]

Our place certainly isn't a palace but most this are ok they only real shit thing is standarad lino (we ended up with tiles) and the carpet is cheap plastic shit.

[Aristoman]

We upgraded all our carpets and kickarse lino, was only like an extra k ontop. There carpet (base package) is basically industrial carpet hahaha

[Pete]

Just quietly, Loan approved for house and shed ( 12x10 120sqm.)


Fuck. Yes.

[DRKWRX]

we got our loan approved toady as well! :O congrats.

[Pete]

Awesome man Congrats ! Such a great feeling, probably 2 months before we're ready to move in we'll put this house on the market, hopefully get someone who'll let us stay until we're ready to go.

[d1mitch]

finally my titles have been released, due for settlement on my block on the 21st of Nov, plans are in drafting so its all go. probably wont see slab down till the new year now though which sucks

[j3rk]

Boredom whilst on time off, realizing that buying a house where I want to live is out of my range and every other pingpingpingping building has resulted in pre-approval to build.
Would love some of the AL guru's input into what works or doesn't, visualizing homes is not on my list of strengths.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee250/j3rk_2007/Willagee%20Build/HousePlansv17-11-13.jpg

Also, no one seems to have mentioned Ben Trager in this thread.
Anyone have experience with them or alternatively double story homes with steel framed top floor rather than double brick?
Fair price difference between them and alternatives!

[mys1]

5 sinks between the master and guest bedroom doesn't make sense to me. Get rid of some walls and make the bathrooms bigger.

If you're living with someone they can handle you doing your business in front of them....

[Sensible]

Double door to entry
Why the need for 2 internet zones and and study when everyone uses wireless?
Agree with getting rid of sink in upstairs powder
The only thing I have heard about Ben Trager homes is that it is very hard to get money out of them if you are a subbie

[Joe]

Where will you be building the house?

[benjamino]

finally my titles have been released, due for settlement on my block on the 21st of Nov, plans are in drafting so its all go. probably wont see slab down till the new year now though which sucks

Mitch whereabouts is your block?

Waiting for titles in Aspiri which should be due fairly soon.

[j3rk]

Where will you be building the house?
Willagee on a property I already own. Nice and big block (750+), so room for backyard/pools etc.
On that note, who did your demolition? Getting quotes for that atm and seem to vary quite a bit.


Mitch whereabouts is your block?
Waiting for titles in Aspiri which should be due fairly soon.
Aspiri seems to be the choice of a few, already a few ALs living there and a few more building!

[cplagz]

Willagee on a property I already own. Nice and big block (750+), so room for backyard/pools etc.
On that note, who did your demolition? Getting quotes for that atm and seem to vary quite a bit.


Aspiri seems to be the choice of a few, already a few ALs living there and a few more building!

Have used Groundworks, S&L Demolition and Brajkovich. I would use Brajkovich and S&L again. Being FIFO I would do cancellation of services .etc yourself, takes about 5 minutes and can save you a few hunj in "admin fees". Also postpone demolition as long as possible, because if you demo and have growth on the block you will have to pay to get it removed prior to siteworks.

[Joe]

Groundworks were what my builder recommended, as they are the cleanest i.e. leave the least rubble behind in their experience.

We used Brajkovich for a multi unit development we did in Bassendean and they were just as good.

In the end, I went with Groundworks Demo because they came in about 5% cheaper. I'd use Brajkovich or Groundworks, depending on who gives you the best price.


Willagee on a property I already own. Nice and big block (750+), so room for backyard/pools etc.

Cool :)

Reason I asked was because I noticed there was no variance in the side setbacks, especially on the left side of the house. Some councils will make you vary the setbacks along the length of the house. If your block is big enough, it wont' be a problem anyway.. seems that it is big enough, so you're good to go :D

Also with your plan, I notice the garage is only 25c opening. Lift it to 28c!

Have you got elevations that you can post up (sides, rear, front)?

[j3rk]

^Cheers for demo companies, will call and get quotes from all.

Tyson - Don't agree with moving doors! Hate toilets in same room as bathroom.
Sensible - Entrance door I just made into a huge / fancy one door entry. IT zones I scrapped, they just left them on the plans.
Joe - Great point on garage door! Lifted garage roof to 31c, forgot about door!
- Don't have block elevations, have engineering survey happening over next two weeks. On that note, recommendations for retaining wall companies?!

[mitchy]

Reason I asked was because I noticed there was no variance in the side setbacks, especially on the left side of the house. Some councils will make you vary the setbacks along the length of the house. If your block is big enough, it wont' be a problem anyway.. seems that it is big enough, so you're good to go :D

nert, goes off wall length/height and major openings. that will be setback 1500 which can go pretty much as long as you like. the rear is obviously also an alfresco that has been closed in with white out and a pen, so not even proper drawings.


do you really need 5 bedrooms? turn the guest and study into a nice big office at the front and theatre. remove the old theatre and shuffle the bedrooms etc around, and then use the kitchen/living/dining/alfresco/old bed 4 as a nice big open living area. so much more usable space as opposed to ~3 rarely used bedrooms?
backyard is also on the wrong side too. perhaps swap the guest area and the garage.

[mr_rotary]

- All your living area is to the left of the house. However adding the third garage adds a massive space now to the right side where it's a waste. Ideally your need that on the other side or consider mirroring the rear end of the house (behind guest/theatre) to use that space.
- I would get rid of upstairs powder completetely (as in remove door and vanity) and make the shower and vanity larger. Upstairs looks like a 'parents' area only.
- Add a door in the master suite robe opening into the roof space for additional storage or to lock the kids in.
- Double door or a pivot door to entry.
- Add doors to robes to master suite and guest suite as they just look plain untidy once you put stuff in them.
- Add at least a 700d nib wall to side of fridge unless you like looking at the side of it. Able to then add overhead cupboards over the fridge recess.
- Large house but only one little poxy sized single door linen for storage? Where will the vacuum cleaner go? I would move the guest suite door in and half the WIR for a proper sized WIL.
- Remove the downstairs 'internet zone' along with that linen and increase the kitchen.

As for Ben Trager homes, never heard of them and been in the business a while. Personally I don't like the weatherboard top storys as they look like a renovation add-on. They are cheaper as the top story is quicker to errect and you only require a timber floor/stairs and not concrete.

[Joe]

nert, goes off wall length/height and major openings. that will be setback 1500 which can go pretty much as long as you like. the rear is obviously also an alfresco that has been closed in with white out and a pen, so not even proper drawings.

Hence why I asked about the size of the block, that setback may have been less than 1500 if the block was small!

In my experience, our side setback is 1000 and we had to put a major opening in as a result. We simply couldn't squeeze any more out in setbacks because our block is 13.08 wide.

Didn't notice the alfresco was closed in on the drawings either!


On that note, recommendations for retaining wall companies?!

I used Bradford retaining.. they came in the cheapest, and were also recommended by my builder. In the end I was very happy with the job. However, I used panel and post retaining as space was at a premium, and I don't think they do limestone.

A recommendation that I'd make to anyone building a house, is get quotes from your builder as well as at least 2 independent quotes.. sometimes you might be surprised. My builder came in cheapest by far with the air-con quote, as opposed to using my own contractor to do it!!

[mitchy]

Hence why I asked about the size of the block, that setback may have been less than 1500 if the block was small!

In my experience, our side setback is 1000 and we had to put a major opening in as a result. We simply couldn't squeeze any more out in setbacks because our block is 13.08 wide.

Didn't notice the alfresco was closed in on the drawings either!

it has be to be 1500, as ensuite 2 has to be 1000. the faint line is presumably the boundary on either side.
i can almost guarantee you wont have a major opening on a wall 1000 from the boundary.

[Joe]

In other news, my builder fucked up big time and I now have 35 course ceilings in Bedroom 3 and 4, and my retreat.

This is because the brickie built the internal walls to full height by accident (don't ask me how that happens, but anyway). They're paying for the extra plastering etc and allowing me to keep the 35 course ceilings instead of taking 3 courses of bricks off the internal walls. WIN.


i can almost guarantee you wont have a major opening on a wall 1000 from the boundary.

What do you mean by that?

[regi]

i can guarantee that you wont have a 1000 setback with anything more than a 'minor' opening

major openings require a 1.5m setback

minor openings (highlight windows, windows to non-habitable rooms) can go to 1m

[Joe]

Is an "opening" just a window or door? Does the opening have to be facing the boundary, or can it be on a 90 degree angle to it?

[regi]

anything visually permeable is an opening

doesnt matter which direction its facing - but at 90 deg its probably going to raise visual privacy issues more than anything else

[j3rk]

Mitchy:
- Cheers for the insight on the 5x3! You're not the first to say that. Need to mull it over.
- Good spot on the alfresco - I basically just extended the open space internal to where the planned alfresco was. I've then specified a 6m x 15m alfresco at the rear.
- They aren't proper drawings, just first drafts to allow engineering surveys to work out if retaining walls are required/surveys of elevations for site works. Very initial stages!!
- The block is 17.9 x 43, so space is not a premium... from rear house wall to back of block is 25m of open space to fill with outdoor pool / potential for car workshop etc etc

Mr_rotary, cheers! Again, appreciated guys... clearly you guys have done this before.
The space on the right I've left open to allow extra parking along the side/ability to drive to the back if I want to put a workshop out the back.

[DRKWRX]

yeah I dont see the point in building a 2 story and all the rooms are smaller than a single story house...

[mitchy]

yeah I dont see the point in building a 2 story and all the rooms are smaller than a single story house...

thats some thing i've noticed with quite a few places i draw... some people like to cram in extra bedrooms, despite the fact you can barely fit a double bed in them. 4 spacious rooms is more appealing than 5 dog kennels.

[j3rk]

^Explain.
E.g. What's a normal good room size? I extended the smaller rooms to 4x3 (Hard to see but theres an arrow pushing the whole right wall to the right by 1m).
Opinions that Masters/Guest/Spare rooms should all be bigger? Cost to change things now, minimal. After/during build... high.

[Joe]

It really depends what you want to do with the bedrooms now and in the future.

I put 5 bedrooms in because
- Master suite upstairs at the front of the upper floor (with retreat in between as a buffer). 20.4m2 + 10m2 WIR + ensuite
- 2 kids upstairs at the back of the upper floor. 12m2 each room excluding built in robe
- Spare room for storing shit / potentially 3rd kid. Smallest bedroom at 10.36m2 excluding built in robe
- Guest room with ensuite downstairs for when my folks, the in-laws, friends or interstate/international family want to stay over. 14.2m2 excluding built in robe and ensuite.

I have kids, and I don't want clutter in their rooms.. they will have toys in their activity room, and computers in the upstairs retreat (when they get older for study, etc). As they get older, the activity room and private courtyard becomes their own games room / private space. Bedrooms are for sleep and of course displaying some prized personal belongings.

That being said, all my bedrooms are generous, and I didn't want anything below 10m2 for the least used room.

It was easier with a 390m2 house, but if your house isn't going to be that big, its better to drop a bedroom than squeeze them down in size.

[DRKWRX]

go in some show homes and grab the plans and have a look at the sizes and see what you think is adequate.

[sethor]

I personally think the smallest size a bedroom should be about 3.0x3.0m, so with your smallest rooms being 3.6x3.0m is fine & generally would still be considered above average in size. I would consider making the upstairs retreat a part of the master as it is smallish at 3.86x3.68m.

[RELEASE]

Any recommendations for someone that does refrigerated ducted air con ?

[Aristoman]

Try Rowan at jarrahdale heaters and cooling.

Few on here have used him in the past.

http://www.jhc.com.au/

[d1mitch]

Mitch whereabouts is your block?

Waiting for titles in Aspiri which should be due fairly soon.

i am building in Catalina.

its all exciting haha, i have to settle on my block on the 21st then wait for my plans and prestart to be done then they can get building.

[RELEASE]

Try Rowan at jarrahdale heaters and cooling.

Few on here have used him in the past.

http://www.jhc.com.au/
Cheers for that. Will give him a call today and get some advice and quotes.

[matty12]

i am building in Catalina.

its all exciting haha, i have to settle on my block on the 21st then wait for my plans and prestart to be done then they can get building.

Is it true they wanted to know your shoe size and all things unrelated to purchasing a block be before you even got a look in? I hope your not to close to the tip.

[d1mitch]

Is it true they wanted to know your shoe size and all things unrelated to purchasing a block be before you even got a look in? I hope your not to close to the tip.

nah they werent too bad, they have pretty full on design guidelines but i dont think they are too much different from other estates

nah i am on the almost as far away from the tip as you can get, closer to ocean keys shopping centre, no worries though they are shutting the tip down in 5 years or something. and catalina estate will build over the top from what i can tell from the extended plans

its pretty full on to get a block there though demand is ridiculously high, they are doing the releases online- so on the day of release you have to sit at your computer and 8am on the dot a web page goes live in which you put in your details, your top 3 block picks, finance position and submit, from there depending how quick you were will determine how lucky you are at getting a block. and if you are finance conditional you have no chance so you have to go unconditional finance regardless even to get a look in.

on my release there was 21 blocks and 350 people registered for them i had mine submitted in 30 seconds after sitting there hitting F5 like crazy and i was 3rd on the list. got my second choice block which turned out better anyway because i preferred that one after looking at the blocks again. i went unconditional on my finance even though i only had pre approval and when i spoke to the agent he said that if i didnt go unconditional i probably wouldnt have got a block at all

every release since has been the same situation every block sold on day of release.
i was lucky to get one in my release because i wouldnt have been able to afford it had i missed and waited till the next release. there was a $17,500 increase in price. feelsgood.jpg

[regi]

you can't build houses over a tip, they will just turn it into an oval.

[matty12]

Isnt it like 50 years before thay can build or something?? We live in Clarkson just down the road from catalina, heard a few story that they wanted to know what your job was etc. When getting our block it was the phone call that got you one, we got in( 6 years ago in the building boom) never even saw any plans and they asked which one we wanted, we didn't know where they were even, so they just held one for us. A bit nieve thinking back now but got us in the door.

I get upset looking at all the nice bush they keep knocking down when I drive to work etc to put up tiny shitty houses making us feel lucking while those grubby pingpingpingpings rub their hands in fist fulls of kesh.

[regi]

never

if they turn it into a park its vested to the crown so its gummint land, typically it will stay the same due to landowner expectations

[mr_rotary]

you can't build houses over a tip, they will just turn it into an oval.They used to!!

[regi]

they build estates around them, never on them.

as far as i know its always been that way.

happy to be proven wrong :)

[matty12]

Burswoods a tip wasn't it

[regi]

from wiki


The area surrounding the Casino is known as Burswood Park. Originally a rubbish tip from the mid-1940s, the construction of the casino complex also saw the parklands regenerated into a public recreational facility. The park contains wildflower displays, a heritage trail with various statues, and a public golf course which is scheduled to close for redevelopment in 2013

[Joe]

The old Stirling tip is a park.

Gwelup is built on asbestos contaminated land.. good luck putting a pool in, some parts of Gwelup you're not allowed to excavate lower than 1m deep!

[d1mitch]

Isnt it like 50 years before thay can build or something?? We live in Clarkson just down the road from catalina, heard a few story that they wanted to know what your job was etc. When getting our block it was the phone call that got you one, we got in( 6 years ago in the building boom) never even saw any plans and they asked which one we wanted, we didn't know where they were even, so they just held one for us. A bit nieve thinking back now but got us in the door.

I get upset looking at all the nice bush they keep knocking down when I drive to work etc to put up tiny shitty houses making us feel lucking while those grubby pingpingpingpings rub their hands in fist fulls of kesh.

come to think of it i think they wanted to know that on the offer to purchase but the only info to register and get a chance to offer on a block was you name, contact details and your financial position.

i cant remember what is in that exact spot because the plan is up on the wall of the estate sales office but i think there is a school or something on it??? who knows that is a long way down the track yet though they are going to start work on the coastal/mindarie side first which will go on sale in 2015 then i assume they will start the train station side and then will come back to the middle to start the bit where the tip is/was.

i should be a good area once done, i saw one of the homebuyers display homes they have a price on it so you can buy it and lease back to them at $588k, same size house and block as mine so if i can get anything like that for mine once its done i will be stoked

[matty12]

Yeah they have already started putting the intersection for coastal side, behind the tip/conolly drive has works goin on already as its a whole in the ground they are bring sand from the middle estate to fill it.

[Lmx]

Was just thinking as above, If i was ever going to live that far away from Perth (CBD) then you'd surely want it to be on that side of Marmion otherwise its just another clarkson

[Trolley]

Guys, my place is just about complete but I'm worried about one thing - downpipes on the portico. They're shown on the plan but haven't been installed. I've been hounding the builder for months. There are currently 4 downpipes on both sides of the house but my worry is that if and when we get a sudden heavy downpour, the portico will turn into a water feature. Opinions on whether they should be installed would be good. Obviously the roof plumber thinks otherwise...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/884946_10151756852653803_1849882942_o.jpg

(ignore the render colour, will be done much darker after handover)

[d1mitch]

Was just thinking as above, If i was ever going to live that far away from Perth (CBD) then you'd surely want it to be on that side of Marmion otherwise its just another clarkson



yeh ok, how much money do you have haha, for a first home buyer it would be well out of my price range. for example i paid $250k for a 375m block, a block the exact same size in my part (the middle part between marmion and conolly) is now (going by the last release) around $270k they may increase some more in the next releases i dont know. so i hazard a guess that the blocks on the coastal side of marmion will be well and truly $300k+ for a similar sized block. if you want something bigger you will be paying big bucks.

you will find that alot of the coastal areas are more expensive than closer to the CBD but inland. and obviously the closer you get to the CBD on the coast prices increase dramatically.

have a look at burns beach, a bit further south from me by about 5 minutes but on that coastal side, a block similar size to mine will set you back nearly $390k. you will be at $600k easy by the time you put a house on it

i just know i wanted to live in that coastal belt and i didnt want to go to alkimos. prices are a bit cheaper than catalina but its another 15-20 minute drive north of where i am

[Missile]

Without seeing any real detail, it looks as though the portico guttering is open ended, so any water collected will flow back on to the main section of roof. The actual pickup of the portico roof is small, and even in heavy rain you should not see any overflow from this gutter.
Looks better without a gutter at the entrance of a house.

[Trolley]

Cheers Missile. It's definitely open ended.

[MadDocker]

Agree with Missile, should be fine.

Did you pick that render colour out of a catalogue at prestart and it looked completely different? Did that on my first house, picked what looked like a browny colour and ended up with fucking purple.

[Trolley]

lol yeh MadDocker. We chose it on advice from our pre-start consultant as I said I wanted a "mid grey" (lighter than the black roof and gutter, but darker than the light grey fascia paint). The grey actually looks perfect in the tin and dribbled down the sides of the tin, but on application it went blurple!

[tinto]

Any recommendations for supply and install of poured aggregate driveway and pathways?

I'm about to give BGC a call directly.
I don't want to be dealing with multiple trades, so would rather a one stop shop for it.

[sensei_]

Guys, my place is just about complete but I'm worried about one thing - downpipes on the portico. They're shown on the plan but haven't been installed. I've been hounding the builder for months. There are currently 4 downpipes on both sides of the house but my worry is that if and when we get a sudden heavy downpour, the portico will turn into a water feature. Opinions on whether they should be installed would be good. Obviously the roof plumber thinks otherwise...

if i were you i would be writing to the builder requesting an undertaking that if there should be any issues with water entering the portico, you will hold the builder liable. get this in writing. better to be safe than sorry.

[suburban]

i should be a good area once done, i saw one of the homebuyers display homes they have a price on it so you can buy it and lease back to them at $588k, same size house and block as mine so if i can get anything like that for mine once its done i will be stoked

i built that display for homies

[180SXTCY]

Got a bill today for 13k for my Italian porcelain tiles..FML so much keah houses

[DRKWRX]

and you still have to get them layed??? lol.

[180SXTCY]

Yep FML haha.. Buy a house they said I'll be fun they said

[Joe]

Wtf.. What tiles did you buy?

[cplagz]

Bought another site in Spearwood yesterday.... hoping to squeeze 7 units on 819sqm. yeow! :D

[DRKWRX]

one of my best mates mum works at ceramic store, wholesale price ftw! doing whole bathrooms floors and walls with rectified porclain, came to 2.5k or something, I am sure laying will cost twice that or more though lol.

[mitchy]

Bought another site in Spearwood yesterday.... hoping to squeeze 7 units on 819sqm. yeow! :D

lol. what's the block look like?

[cplagz]

flat 18.2x45.2, R30/40 and doing multi-res will allow R40, so 60% Plot Ratio ftw.

[180SXTCY]

Wtf.. What tiles did you buy?

I can't remember the exact name buy they're a full Italian rectified tile that's a glossy white marble look and 600 x 600

[Turbo2.6L]

How many square metres?

[Nugs]

Anyone on here do solid timber flooring?
We were thinking of going with Grey Ironbark but have been told by one company that it's not suitable for Perth weather and will dry out and crack.
Does anyone know if that's true?

[SimonR32]

I'm starting to get frustrated, brick layer was delayed 3 weeks because there is a shortage of them at the moment. Meant to be starting this week, rang supervisor to check on updates and there is another 2 week delay because the brickie has decided to do another job instead...

GRRR

[cplagz]

So many people having issues with brickies. I know Adz had dramas, a mate of mine has been waiting 3 weeks.... glad my brickies are on site. 3 villas up and complete in 1.5 weeks :)

[Joe]

My brickies have come and gone, no delays at all. Seems to be the luck of the draw ie when your builder has scheduled it in and whether their subbies can do it immediately or not.

[SimonR32]

My brickies have come and gone, no delays at all. Seems to be the luck of the draw ie when your builder has scheduled it in and whether their subbies can do it immediately or not.

This was well after yours got done, apparently only become and issue in about the last month or so... I know several people having issues :(

My builder also isn't willing to compromise on the quality to get it done faster so I guess that's a good thing

[cplagz]

I got the heads up when talking to another builder that brickies are asking for more money and lots of builders are saying no, because there is no way in hell they can afford $1.40+/brick

[Joe]

I heard the same!

[SimonR32]

I got the heads up when talking to another builder that brickies are asking for more money and lots of builders are saying no, because there is no way in hell they can afford $1.40+/brick

Pretty much my situation, I actually asked if we could throw money at the brickie to get them to do the job (the excess cash would be offset by saving $500 in interest per week) but the builder doesn't want to play that game because it sets a precedent. His comment was that brickies are the trade most likely to try to hold builders to ransom.

[sethor]

I got the heads up when talking to another builder that brickies are asking for more money and lots of builders are saying no, because there is no way in hell they can afford $1.40+/brick

That's pretty crap pay, back in 2000 in was $1/brick & if they are not willing to cough up $1.40/brick now that's only a 2-2.5%PA rise since 2000.

[Trolley]

This was well after yours got done, apparently only become and issue in about the last month or so... I know several people having issues :(

My builder also isn't willing to compromise on the quality to get it done faster so I guess that's a good thing

Was much the same earlier in the year as well. I waited many weeks for brickies to become available after the slab went down in July.

[mr_rotary]

All builders are in the same boat waiting for brick layers.

Wages was up around $1.40 during the boom due to demand and settled a little lower after. Does not suprise me they are asking for more due to demand. Builders have already been bitten with price hikes during the boom so good luck for them asking for more.

sethor - don't forget houses have increased a fair bit in size since 2000 plus there is a large amount of work out there. To compare how high brick layers get paid now my grandfather used to get paid somewhere around 20c a brick in the 80's and used to have a team. It was a lot harder to get paid after the job was done with him often paying the team first before himself.

[cplagz]

But dishwashers get paid 100k in FIFO so why don't I for building their houses..... *rubs fingers together* world's smallest fucking violin.

[Trolley]

But dishwashers get paid 100k in FIFO so why don't I for building their houses..... *rubs fingers together* world's smallest fucking violin.

It's probably all the tradies coming back to Perth after losing their job up north and expecting to keep the same wage

[regi]

too many jet ski repayments

[DRKWRX]

That's pretty crap pay, back in 2000 in was $1/brick & if they are not willing to cough up $1.40/brick now that's only a 2-2.5%PA rise since 2000.

I am not the best at maths but isnt it more like a 20% increase? not 2.5%

[siladee]

per annum

[DRKWRX]

oh I get you, sounds bad when you put it that way lol I think its not a bad increase over that time, I install Alu windows probaly more payrise than I have gotten over the past 10 years I may be wrong though..... (get paid per lineal metre)

[Sensible]

Agree with Darkwrx
Plastering rates now are the same as 10 years ago but all our costs have increased

[sensei_]

Anyone on here do solid timber flooring?
We were thinking of going with Grey Ironbark but have been told by one company that it's not suitable for Perth weather and will dry out and crack.
Does anyone know if that's true?

i don't have any problems with jarrah flooring (direct stick method). what i do have is finding that despite being hardwood, it is anything but. drop a fork, and i have four new holes. drop a coin, and there is a mark. nice to look at, beautiful in photos, but horrible to maintain because it gets bruised so easily.

[Nugs]

i don't have any problems with jarrah flooring (direct stick method). what i do have is finding that despite being hardwood, it is anything but. drop a fork, and i have four new holes. drop a coin, and there is a mark. nice to look at, beautiful in photos, but horrible to maintain because it gets bruised so easily.
Cheers, I'm used to wood floors (have lived in a few places with Jarrah including my current house) so know what wood is like to live with. Just curious if this guy was correct about Iron bark actually cracking or talking shit because he didn't sell it.

[sensei_]

Cheers, I'm used to wood floors (have lived in a few places with Jarrah including my current house) so know what wood is like to live with. Just curious if this guy was correct about Iron bark actually cracking or talking shit because he didn't sell it.

in that case, i can't be too sure. but what i can tell you is, our weather here is very "dry". i had a few stingray skinned sword scabbards that were in great condition, but after bringing them to perth i notice that they get dry, brittle and eventually crack. i don't know if the species of wood you are referring to will show the same characteristics as stingray skin.

[180SXTCY]

So I've got an appointment with intelligent homes this afternoon in regards to installing smart wiring to my home? What's peoples thoughts on smart wiring is it needed or just wanky over priced crap? I thought id at least go and see what they had to offer as they included a brochure in my pre start file.

[d1mitch]

All builders are in the same boat waiting for brick layers.

Wages was up around $1.40 during the boom due to demand and settled a little lower after. Does not suprise me they are asking for more due to demand. Builders have already been bitten with price hikes during the boom so good luck for them asking for more.

sethor - don't forget houses have increased a fair bit in size since 2000 plus there is a large amount of work out there. To compare how high brick layers get paid now my grandfather used to get paid somewhere around 20c a brick in the 80's and used to have a team. It was a lot harder to get paid after the job was done with him often paying the team first before himself.

just out of interest how many bricks would a brickie lay in a day on average?

[waxdass]

If you can pay cash you can get it down considerably. I paid 90c / brick in 2010.
My parents built in 2007 - paid 2.30/brick. Rapage.

[sensei_]

So I've got an appointment with intelligent homes this afternoon in regards to installing smart wiring to my home? What's peoples thoughts on smart wiring is it needed or just wanky over priced crap? I thought id at least go and see what they had to offer as they included a brochure in my pre start file.

2 network ports to every room (one for phone, one for ethernet), get another network port behind the fridge.

think carefully where you want the patch panel - most are installed in a garage/pantry. make sure you have lots of power points near the patch panel.

if you are intending on having a proper wifi network, then consider putting ethernet ports in the ceiling. that way you can mount a wifi AP on the ceiling, out of sight, out of mind.

[Risk10k]

But dishwashers get paid 100k in FIFO so why don't I for building their houses..... *rubs fingers together* world's smallest fucking violin.


LOL, I was offered a job cleaning up north... For a 20k pay cut. The wages are not what I'd thought they were for shit kicker work.

[Bomber]

make sure you have lots of power points near the patch panel.
Network newb here - why?

[Bomber]

LOL, I was offered a job cleaning up north... For a 20k pay cut. The wages are not what I'd thought they were for shit kicker work.
Dishwashers here (Area C) get about 60k/yr.

[Risk10k]

Dishwashers here (Area C) get about 60k/yr.

Is that 2/1? Sure its great for an unskilled kid out of high school, but nothing like the 100k you used to hear people talking about. Or was it all BS.

[Bomber]

Is that 2/1? Sure its great for an unskilled kid out of high school, but nothing like the 100k you used to hear people talking about. Or was it all BS.
Yep 2/1. There are more than a few jobs around in mining/construction making 6 figures and no skill is required though.

Sorry didn't mean to derail thread.

[sensei_]

Network newb here - why?

generally ethernet requires power (PC, router, wireless access point, fridge, etc)

[DRKWRX]

2 network ports to every room (one for phone, one for ethernet), get another network port behind the fridge.

think carefully where you want the patch panel - most are installed in a garage/pantry. make sure you have lots of power points near the patch panel.

if you are intending on having a proper wifi network, then consider putting ethernet ports in the ceiling. that way you can mount a wifi AP on the ceiling, out of sight, out of mind.

I'm guessing Ethernet will be a lot faster than wireless? If you have fibre optic connection? Two for every room, but you wouldn't have a phone in every room?

[mitchy]

generally ethernet requires power (PC, router, wireless access point, fridge, etc)

i think he was referring to why you need "lots" near the patch panel.. presumably for the patch panel itself, phone, alarm, etc...


I'm guessing Ethernet will be a lot faster than wireless? If you have fibre optic connection? Two for every room, but you wouldn't have a phone in every room?

future proof. ports can be mixed and matched at the patch panel, so if you ever did decide you wanted a phone in another room or even 2 ethernet ports... you can.

[mARC]

But dishwashers get paid 100k in FIFO so why don't I for building their houses..... *rubs fingers together* world's smallest fucking violin.

Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad they're making more money then me :D

[Miggy]

Is that 2/1? Sure its great for an unskilled kid out of high school, but nothing like the 100k you used to hear people talking about. Or was it all BS.

You can make over 100k here in Perth being a T/A. On the project I'm on a T/A can make 130k if you work your 5 days a week plus 8 hours on a Saturday.

[cplagz]

Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad they're making more money then me :D

Not even close ;) and I don't have to leave my own house either.

[mod]

Just get your fork lift license and work at Coles DC near Perth Airport, They clear 110k easily(with weekly incentives bonus)

[Damo 69]

Is that 2/1? Sure its great for an unskilled kid out of high school, but nothing like the 100k you used to hear people talking about. Or was it all BS.

that would have been with ESS or Sodexo or similar, they pay shit money basically people use them to hop skip and jump to a new company from people they meet onsite.

TA or similar is where you would want to be, would be best to get perth experience at the moment. wait at the moment it may be best to sit tight and be happy with what you have cos in all honesty you may jump ship and be give nthe ass a month later due to the current climate in industry !

[180SXTCY]

So had my appointment with intelligent homes and I'm going with one of there smart wiring packages. It basically gives me 2 TV annena ports, a phone line/port and internet to every bed room, activity room, living room and theatre. Also they install it all in a nice little while box in the garage so its all neat and out of the way.

[Lmx]

Just get your fork lift license and work at Coles DC near Perth Airport, They clear 110k easily(with weekly incentives bonus)
They really pay that much for a forklift driver? wtf

[DRKWRX]

was it expensive 180SXTCY???

[180SXTCY]

Not really few k

[Miggy]

Sweet I thought it would be more than that, i'll be booking an appointment soon.

[180SXTCY]

You could spend a shit load of cash in the place. I just kept it to what I needed.

[sensei_]

I'm guessing Ethernet will be a lot faster than wireless? If you have fibre optic connection? Two for every room, but you wouldn't have a phone in every room?

not only that, there is less interference from microwaves and cordless phones. they can also be more secure because no wireless access point means no opportunity for people to try and leech off your system.

also 2 ethernet ports means that you have the flexibility of multiple devices being connected such as PC/telephone, media centre/internet TV, or any combination of devices you can think of.


i think he was referring to why you need "lots" near the patch panel.. presumably for the patch panel itself, phone, alarm, etc...

future proof. ports can be mixed and matched at the patch panel, so if you ever did decide you wanted a phone in another room or even 2 ethernet ports... you can.

lots of power near the patch panel means the ability to have a server, router, NAS, random networking gadgets, etc without having to overload the power board

[DRKWRX]

So would it be a good idea to get the panel installed in the master walk in robe? So you can store a server etc in there? Does it mean your whole house is networked aswell? I got a broshure from intelligent homes too from my builder but thought the basic setup was 2k.

[RELEASE]

PCI completed on Tuesday, final inspection on 10/12 with handover on 11/12 pending my bank does what they need to do. Gemmill experience during construction has been great. Admin side is what fucked me and gave me a 2 month delay so rather than moving in before Christmas it's now probably feb next year by the time I finish organizing everything else to get done.

Still a decent list for me to Organise post handover..... painting, lighting, curtains, flooring, alarm, driveway & alfresco aggregate, air con. Only aggregate on that list that I'm still looking at who will do it...everything else is pretty much confirmed.

[sensei_]

So would it be a good idea to get the panel installed in the master walk in robe? So you can store a server etc in there? Does it mean your whole house is networked aswell? I got a broshure from intelligent homes too from my builder but thought the basic setup was 2k.

thats up to you. i dont know what your preferences are like when it comes to networking. depends on what you intend to run and how much room you need. most definitely, you could store a server in there. depending on the number of ports in the house, yes, you could have the whole house networked, if you needed wifi (tablet, laptops, phones), you could have them as well by changing configuration as per your needs.

personally, i would have the patch panel located in the garage or in my case, home theatre. means more room to have things running and easy to get to when things go wrong.

another tip, do think where you intend to have a wired network, or wireless. if wired, then make sure the ports are the same height as your power points and 500mm apart. if going wireless and want to maximise efficiency, you may want to put the ports up higher along the wall, or even from the ceiling and connect it like how hospitals, libraries and business do it (example (http://www.securedgenetworks.com/Portals/80068/images/AP%20below%20ceiling.png))

[mr_rotary]

You can make over 100k here in Perth being a T/A. On the project I'm on a T/A can make 130k if you work your 5 days a week plus 8 hours on a Saturday.

What's a T/A?

[Lmx]

Trades Assistant?

[S85FI]

^^^ yep.

[cplagz]

Why not just run Cat5e or Cat6 everywhere... you can send any signal down it and the panels look a lot neater on the wall not being used :)

[sensei_]

Why not just run Cat5e or Cat6 everywhere... you can send any signal down it and the panels look a lot neater on the wall not being used :)

not sure about intelligent homes now, but my install was cat5e just when cat6 was being common. if i was building again, i wouldnt go with cat5e, just pony up the money and get cat6.

[mitchy]

lots of power near the patch panel means the ability to have a server, router, NAS, random networking gadgets, etc without having to overload the power board

so exactly what i said?


Why not just run Cat5e or Cat6 everywhere... you can send any signal down it and the panels look a lot neater on the wall not being used :)

precisely, so having 2 ports in each room can be used for internet, phone, tv (OTA and HDMI), POE access point, etc.

[180SXTCY]

not sure about intelligent homes now, but my install was cat5e just when cat6 was being common. if i was building again, i wouldnt go with cat5e, just pony up the money and get cat6.

they use all cat 6 now.

[tinto]

They can do security stuff too JD.

We're just wrapping up things with intelligent homes - ended up with some cabling for audio through to the back yard as well as networking everywhere I thought there would be a need for a media server/display. A few foxtel ports in key places, but I'm not so sure I'll be renewing. I'm looking forward to getting their final handover.

NBN is rolling down my street soon too.

[SimonR32]

NBN is rolling down my street soon too.

This.... How can you tell, I'm under the impression that my new suburb (Gwelup) is getting FTTP under the labour scheme but can't seem to find any definitive documentation?!?

[YOUR MATE]

Ring them. They will check your lot number and then put you on an email list for updates. They even ring you when it is about to go live. NBNco surprised the shit out of me by actually having good service. Go figure.

[180SXTCY]

Isn't there a website that shows where all the current and future fibre going to be?

Its something like nbnco.com just Google it and I'm sure you'll find it.

I also have fttp glad it was done before all these changes happening.

[DRKWRX]

thats up to you. i dont know what your preferences are like when it comes to networking. depends on what you intend to run and how much room you need. most definitely, you could store a server in there. depending on the number of ports in the house, yes, you could have the whole house networked, if you needed wifi (tablet, laptops, phones), you could have them as well by changing configuration as per your needs.

personally, i would have the patch panel located in the garage or in my case, home theatre. means more room to have things running and easy to get to when things go wrong.

another tip, do think where you intend to have a wired network, or wireless. if wired, then make sure the ports are the same height as your power points and 500mm apart. if going wireless and want to maximise efficiency, you may want to put the ports up higher along the wall, or even from the ceiling and connect it like how hospitals, libraries and business do it (example (http://www.securedgenetworks.com/Portals/80068/images/AP%20below%20ceiling.png))

was just thinking wardrobe because it backs onto my theatre so I could run a conduit through the wall, I am a total noob when it comes to networking but want to be able to have a server and be able to stream music/movies through to my theatre room system/tv.

[Lonewolf]

was just thinking wardrobe because it backs onto my theatre so I could run a conduit through the wall, I am a total noob when it comes to networking but want to be able to have a server and be able to stream music/movies through to my theatre room system/tv.

Just be careful with heat, ideally you'll want some ventilation as even a small server can generate some heat to make it an issue in an enclosed space.

[Joe]

Did your builders not offer all this stuff as part of the house package, or is it normal now for builders to refer it straight to intelligent homes?

I was able to get my builders electrician to run Data/TV/Phone everywhere I required it, and all terminating in a junction box in my storeroom.. where my alarm/intercom control box, modem and Ethernet hub, CCTV DVR, etc will all be installed.

[tinto]

Ours ended up being done by Intelligent Homes (through WBN as part of the build package).
Data and NBN stuff lives in a (sunk) cabinet in the garage.

Just heard Riggs' crew are installing my carpets now - I'm going to go and have a look!

[DRKWRX]

well I havn't done pre start yet but in our building folder it had a pamphlet for intelligent homes and they emailed me, maybe its easier for them? might just get it sent to the garage.... will be plenty of room!

[180SXTCY]

Builder can do it but I think they prefer someone who specialises in the field to do it hence the referrals to intelligent homes.

[sensei_]

so exactly what i said?

precisely, so having 2 ports in each room can be used for internet, phone, tv (OTA and HDMI), POE access point, etc.

yeah you're right. what the hell was i thinking.


they use all cat 6 now.

sweet. i was told that wiring need to be 500mm apart from any power cables and cannot intersect at right angles, can anyone clarify if this is still the preferred install method?

i know mine looks like a bowl of japanese noodles with wiring everywhere.


was just thinking wardrobe because it backs onto my theatre so I could run a conduit through the wall, I am a total noob when it comes to networking but want to be able to have a server and be able to stream music/movies through to my theatre room system/tv.

in that case i would prefer to put the server in my HT, it means that i can run everything close by, also you can stream to other rooms as well if need be. as mentioned earlier, it also means more heat ventilation and easier access (no need to duck under clothing to get to server, etc)

dont worry about being a noob when it comes to networking, im sure there are a few guys who may be willing to lend some advise if you ask. no one was born to know everything, so just take the process one step at a time, slowly add things and build your knowledge on that.

[DRKWRX]

you wouldnt stick the panel in the theatre room though? wouldn't look very good imo, server is pretty much just a computer right? with HDDs.

[sensei_]

you wouldnt stick the panel in the theatre room though? wouldn't look very good imo, server is pretty much just a computer right? with HDDs.

it wont be the most beautiful looking thing on the wall in the theatre having the patch panel there. but where else can you put it? if you decide to stick with the WIR position, then you could still make it work, it may mean needing an extra switch in the home theatre to connect up all the devices via ethernet.

i have mine in the garage, im intending on replacing the shelves i have with a proper server rack (wall mounted or free standing i havent decided)

and yes, a server is basically a computer with lots of HDDs. if you wanted to simplify things you could replace server with a NAS (link (http://www.drobo.com/products/overview/)) it is much more compact, and easier to configure. also means no monitor to plug in when trying to configure or troubleshoot.

[DRKWRX]

cheers man, looking on Intelligent homes site it seems they can set all this stuff up for me, think I will just get them to sort the lot out.

[racegtst]

I used Intelligent Homes for smart wire and security.

Looking forward to getting my keys on Monday so will be able to tell how everything works in a week or so when they come back to commission it all.

Tilers coming on Thursday to lay tiles downstairs and booking carpet so with a bit of luck I may be shifting Christmas week.

[RGVFAST]

Design idea help needed. In the below pic, a chandelier is to be installed in the turret would you extend the length to the balustrade and beyond? Or keep it much higher and out of the way.


http://oi42.tinypic.com/b85su1.jpg

[Lump]

depends on the size of the chandelier and the area you are putting it in. have you got a plan or elevation on the area?

ive got a similar setup with 2 'chandeliers' but its a bigger area & they hang down to handrail height. also my light fittings are only 250mm in dia

[RGVFAST]

Void in turret is 1901mm wide and floor to ceiling height is 6200mm

http://oi44.tinypic.com/i3cpaw.jpg

[Lump]

what diameter is the chandelier?

either way i think it will look ok though, but I would probably lean more towards having it higher than handrail height

[RGVFAST]

It's 700mm wide. Hard to imagine without installing, but buying the wrong one will be a costly exercise haha.

[mitchy]

i'd hang it down to the top of the balustrade on the upper floor.

presumably you could raise it if you didn't like it?

[cplagz]

Bottom of chandelier to top of upper rail. That's how we have the one at my folks place set, but you can wind it up and down if you want (makes cleaning it easier).

[RELEASE]

whats been said above. parents have chandelier in there void that hangs to the balustrade height. Dad installed a metal cable with pulley/handle system in the roof so can just winch it down to change the globes and winch back up. can adjust height etc.

[Trolley]

Called up Telstra earlier to get my account set up, choose my bundle for home phone/fiber internet/foxtel etc. and they told me that my address doesn't exist. They have the properties either side of me though. FFS.
Called the City of Swan who confirmed that my address is registered with them and suggested that the Landgate database probably hasn't been updated for Telstra to utilise. GAH! City of Swan don't usually deal with this sort of shit but the lady said she was told by her colleague that he'll try to get it rectified for me because apparently it has happened to a number of properties on my street. More delay...

[racegtst]

On hold to Telstra for 80 minutes only to be transferred to another area as I don't want to sign up with them. Fucking pingpingpingpingS!

[miss_petepie]

I have used their chat option on the website and both times have been fantastic. have had my shit sorted, moved plans around, updated info etc.. and didn't have to speak to anyone, listen to any crapy hold music, voice select options etc..

will be using that function from now on.

[Trolley]

I ended up on the phone to Telstra for 57 minutes... however the issue was sorted, services added and installation date set. It turns out it was just a case of the first two people I spoke to were numpties.

[RGVFAST]

whats been said above. parents have chandelier in there void that hangs to the balustrade height. Dad installed a metal cable with pulley/handle system in the roof so can just winch it down to change the globes and winch back up. can adjust height etc.

Cheers for the ideas. Unfortunatly the unit ive been looking at has fibre optic cables that hang down and a ceiling fixture plate with the optics/lighting that will be fixed to the ceiling, so adjusting the height once attached is not possible.

I agree that bottem of chandelier hanging to top of balustrading will be the safetest option for looks.

[thommo]

Let me know when you install it, I'd like to see the chaos

[RGVFAST]

I fear the danger already.

[thommo]

Design idea help needed. In the below pic, a chandelier is to be installed in the turret would you extend the length to the balustrade and beyond? Or keep it much higher and out of the way.


http://oi42.tinypic.com/b85su1.jpg

And if you go top of handrail level with base of chandelier, the whole thing would then be visible through those side windows which would be better

[mr_rotary]

Just make sure that 'v' gutter is decent sized for the volume of roof falling onto it. 150mm wide is quite narrow. Also it's drawn as a 'v' gutter and noted as a box gutter. Box gutter would be better as it can hold more.

[matty12]

In need of some sparkies help. Ive got to do a run of about 250m of three phase for our new property. What I need to now is what size i should be running and a rough indication of price to do so. I spoke to a guy yesterday that was at the workshop be he said i needed to know loads to estimate size. Im going to be running full duct reverse cycle a/c which i assume is the greatest load ( sussing out that load requirement now)but the work shop will also have eventually a hoist and outlets for compressor and stuff. The two compressor here both use a 10hp(7.5kw) motors.

Any ideas.

[magic1]

^16mm

[Trolley]

Speaking of help, need recommendations/contacts for:
electrician
timber decking

I have friends that do both and have ended up too busy to do the work before Christmas and both are going on lengthy holidays until the middle of January. Fucking annoyed to put it mildly (however delays and only getting keys tomorrow has hindered booking in a concrete time). Going to end up forking out more, and moving in later...

Fat chance of getting anything done between now and Christmas I know, but I can't wait until the middle of January. If you've had some good work done by either trade please throw some names/details at me. I did have a second choice for the timber decking but he has just turned down the job because it's "too far" from Rockingham where he is based.

[SimonR32]

SSICK on here (real name Tom) for sparky work

[YOUR MATE]

Guy is busy but sexy as fuck, so worth the wait. He has done all the work at my place and not a drama with any of it.

[SimonR32]

Bricks farken!

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy15/SimonR32GTR/Mobile%20Uploads/20131205_175431_zpsy3rqw1lj.jpg (http://s773.photobucket.com/user/SimonR32GTR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131205_175431_zpsy3rqw1lj.jpg.html)

[ZAK]

In need of some sparkies help. Ive got to do a run of about 250m of three phase for our new property. What I need to now is what size i should be running and a rough indication of price to do so. I spoke to a guy yesterday that was at the workshop be he said i needed to know loads to estimate size. Im going to be running full duct reverse cycle a/c which i assume is the greatest load ( sussing out that load requirement now)but the work shop will also have eventually a hoist and outlets for compressor and stuff. The two compressor here both use a 10hp(7.5kw) motors.

Any ideas.

Do not go 16mm(i hope that was a troll), unless you want to turn the lights and TV off everytime you boil the kettle. At that distance this is what you'll end up with
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2852/11230609414_9decf1581f_z.jpg

You want to allow around 40A per phase to be on the safe side so here are a few options... You'd have to weigh up the price difference between going for a big Ali cable or a smaller Copper one too.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7436/11230628386_49687829c6_z.jpg

[matty12]

Sweet thanks mate, will forward this to my old man he know a lot more about this than me.

[1cut808]

I noticed that there is a bit of chat in here about NBN. We finally had it installed on Wed, had dramas as we needed a 250m fibreoptic lead in which the NBNco provider doesn't stock so that delayed the process to start with. The builder was instructed to provide wiring for NBN through to the Theatre, Main Bedroom and Living Room which they did however instead of installing a data point in the garage where our NBN components are installed they fitted a phone point. Not so bad as they at least ran CAT5 but we couldn't get any signal through. They ran another CAT5 direct to the main port as one of the cables was squashed between the gyprock and the steel frame but we still had dramas as the alarm system was also hooked in and according to the Telstra Tech, who was on site, the NBN is not compatible with exsisting alarm systems that have a return to base feature. Apparently you have to use a SIM style return to base setup which would have been nice to know earlier...

So heads up for anyone in the NBN zone...

Mitch

[matty12]

Hot water systems, new house is supplied with a 130ltr gas storage unit. We have now a no name solar panel with gas booster. The new place will be on gas bottle so I worried about gas consumption I'm assuming the solar system with the gas booster would be cheaper to run or I'm I miles of the mark.

[Lump]

when i lived in Roleystone we used to go thru 1 big gas bottle (~$80) every 2/2.5 months without a booster (dont know if that helps)

[mr_rotary]

Hot water systems, new house is supplied with a 130ltr gas storage unit. We have now a no name solar panel with gas booster. The new place will be on gas bottle so I worried about gas consumption I'm assuming the solar system with the gas booster would be cheaper to run or I'm I miles of the mark.A gas booster will always turn on till the water gets to temp however you can turn them off at the power point in summer to conserve gas.

As for gas consumption, how long is a piece of string? Depends on how many people/kids and length of showers.

[d1mitch]

my bank is requiring me to get quotes on flooring and window treatments prior to them giving me the finance for my house.

has anyone got some reccomendations for a cheap quote?

[redline07]

PM Riggs for flooring

[RELEASE]

my bank is requiring me to get quotes on flooring and window treatments prior to them giving me the finance for my house.

has anyone got some reccomendations for a cheap quote?I just got the builder to quote, always going to be higher than the real world so you have plenty to play with when you actually get someone out to do it. If you get cheap quote now your mortgage will only be increased by that amount and by the time you actually need to purchase the stuff you won't have enough money

[d1mitch]

PM riggs - done

im not gettgin the builder to quote as im not putting it on the mortgage, i will be doing it after. and if i get the builder to quote with their high prices i will have to show i have sufficient funds to complete it.

[Pete]

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t1/1779985_10152600121259616_1419194780_n.jpg

about 10m in the from the road, looking towards back of block. Mostly cleared.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1/1010459_10152604964299616_745737150_n.jpg

footings, plastic, mesh down.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h162/rexhunta/IMG_1029_zps85099bca.jpg

Slab done yesterday, this is looking from the back of the house towards the front of the block, frames also leaning against tree.

Cure is 7-10 days, then they're going to start loading it up and bricking. Heres comes the fun bit.

[DRKWRX]

any electricians on here? just need a rough idea of what something will cost for my theatre.

[180SXTCY]

Ssick

[DRKWRX]

anyone know how much builders charge to chase a wall and stick a conduit in???

[MadDocker]

I'll check my file but pretty sure it was $80 when we built. Rip for what it is but so useful.

[DRKWRX]

cheers man, but fark thats going to ad up quick! wonder how much the guys doing it get, they do it bloody quick.

[MadDocker]

Risky if you end up missing them but if you know your building supervisor and can get onto the guys on site they'll do it for cash/beers.

[RELEASE]

Gemmill charged me under $50 for 32mm conduit.
Only did it where needed on single brick walls. Can do it on cavity walls later.
I put them in my lounge, theatre and study.

[2LMILK]

25mm with blank plate, $62 each
intelligent home

[Sensible]

The electrical has always been where the builders gouge you during prestart
Just hire a twin bladed bricksaw from Kennards and do it yourself before the plasterer starts, if you supervisor is a good bloke he won't have any issue with it

[Nugs]

Any recommendations for concrete pools?

[d1mitch]

yeh i got rorted $100 per conduit, and they wouldnt allow me to do it myself unless i was going to do all the electrical myself. oh well i only wanted 2 of them the rest i can do later.

anyway progress report, i just signed off $16,612 of variations/additions, so my plan has been lodged back into drafting to get the adjustments made. im getting happier now haha

[d1mitch]

Any recommendations for concrete pools?

i do a lot of work with the pool industry,

from what i have seen dolphin pools are fantastic. they are always winning awards every year.

pools by design do some really good stuff too

neo and exclusive do some nice stuff too

[Nickevox]

Long shot question I have been asked.

Anyone aware/have software to design houses? This is for personal use, something that a family can do.

Cheers

[Joe]

I paid $980 for slab-laid conduit for my entire alarm and CCTV system, with engineers certificate (because the conduit was oversized and had to penetrate my upper floor slab in several spots).

[SimonR32]

I went down on the weekend and got a roll of 10m of 32mm of conduit on the weekend from Bunnings for about $25

Mates's a plumber so we are going to head down this weekend and chase some holes!!!

[_S9_]

I paid $980 for slab-laid conduit for my entire alarm and CCTV system, with engineers certificate (because the conduit was oversized and had to penetrate my upper floor slab in several spots).

You have ceiling-mounted cameras inside your home?

[Wrexter]

Long shot question I have been asked.

Anyone aware/have software to design houses? This is for personal use, something that a family can do.

Cheers

Unless you wan to go full fancy architectural, you should be able to use AutoCad 2D (or 3d) for eveyrhinng (plans, elevations, sections, details etc.)

[cplagz]

Long shot question I have been asked.

Anyone aware/have software to design houses? This is for personal use, something that a family can do.

Cheers

Depending on what you want to do...

Google SketchUp ? You could probably find an old version somewhere.

[d1mitch]

yep autocad will do the job, i used it to design my place then just gave my drawing to the builder to finish as i couldnt be fucked doing the whole working drawings

[Joe]

You have ceiling-mounted cameras inside your home?

I've got 7 cameras but the conduit all had to be run through the slab to get to the outside, because I don't have a suspended ceiling.. My ceiling is the underside of my slab bondcreted and white set.

[DRKWRX]

The electrical has always been where the builders gouge you during prestart
Just hire a twin bladed bricksaw from Kennards and do it yourself before the plasterer starts, if you supervisor is a good bloke he won't have any issue with it

hmm might have to bring this up at pre start, hopefully they arnt dicks about it, I am a tradie so might help...... hate paying someone for something that is a piece of piss to do myself.

[Nickevox]

Depending on what you want to do...

Google SketchUp ? You could probably find an old version somewhere.

Ta, will have a play around with it.

Someone wants me to draw up a design of a house they have planned, this one seems pretty easy to work with

[d1mitch]

hmm might have to bring this up at pre start, hopefully they arnt dicks about it, I am a tradie so might help...... hate paying someone for something that is a piece of piss to do myself.

thats exactly what i wanted to do, but they said as it is part of the electrical the only way they would let me do it is to do all the electrical myself/nominate a tradie to do it. as we couldnt have multiple tradies doing the same tasks.... blah blah blah

you might have more luck just asking the supervisor once work starts

[kris]

1. Make sure you don't start chasing your walls without knowing whats going on above it. A roof beam could be sitting on top and your conduit will become useless.
2. Don't chase sideways on any load bearing walls... try not to chase sideways anyway. Have seen people cut out massives amount of brick in a horizontal chasing for a pipe in a load bearing wall... very dodgy. Also for conduits you want a nice straight line to feed cable through afterwards anyway.
3. When chasing walls be careful, a few years back a tradie was grinding up a wall, hit a hard bit of brick and grinder kicked back, he cut himself deep around the neck and bled out on site, very unfortunate and sad. It's a freak accident, but just be wary.

[DRKWRX]

chasing and putting in conduit isn't really electrical? I dont see the big deal, let their electrician do their part then come in after and do my part, ^ wasnt that someone with a petrol Diamond saw with the guard off and was holding it above his head? someone that the bosses at WBN knew and because of that they got all strict on their tagging off electrical equipment, you chase before the ceiling is in so its not hard to see what is above where you are chasing... ^ good advice though, well I will ask at pre start and if that fails I will just ask the supervisor once the house starts, question if you are chasing for a lot of wall points (theatre) and you want to wall mount your tv how can you not chase a bit sideways so you dont drill into all your conduits?

[magic1]

small vertical chases should be a problem.

[180SXTCY]

If anyone wants a house drawn in either 2d or 3d I can help for a small fee.

[mitchy]

i can help for a large fee.

[Sensible]

chasing and putting in conduit isn't really electrical? I dont see the big deal, let their electrician do their part then come in after and do my part, ^ wasnt that someone with a petrol Diamond saw with the guard off and was holding it above his head? someone that the bosses at WBN knew and because of that they got all strict on their tagging off electrical equipment, you chase before the ceiling is in so its not hard to see what is above where you are chasing... ^ good advice though, well I will ask at pre start and if that fails I will just ask the supervisor once the house starts, question if you are chasing for a lot of wall points (theatre) and you want to wall mount your tv how can you not chase a bit sideways so you dont drill into all your conduits?

It was Dale Alcocks nephew

[DRKWRX]

small vertical chases should be a problem.

should be a problem? care to elaborate?

dont get me wrong it was sad that guy died just dont see how tagging tools would have stopped the incident from happening.

[magic1]

should be a problem? care to elaborate?

dont get me wrong it was sad that guy died just dont see how tagging tools would have stopped the incident from happening.

sorry, horizontal chase.

i dont see a structural issue with a 0.5m horizontal chase. its all going to depend where the load is being transferred.

[DRKWRX]

would it matter if you had about 6 chases going off vertical? to go up and around where you are mounting your tv? I dont think this wall is load bearing.

[magic1]

nope, I cant see a problem. space them out. good to go

[DRKWRX]

cheers :)

[d1mitch]

ok need some help from finance gurus, or anyone really.

i have my block which i am currently paying the mortgage on and am tryign to sort out my house finance.

as i settled on the block prior to organising the house i am due back $7,790 in stamp duty revenue and $10,000 in first home owners grant, so a grand total of $17,790.

now my broker is putting that as deposit on the loan for the house so as soon as the first draw down amount takes place i will start payiong for the loan (less deposit)

firstly who does the FHOG and stamp duty refund get paid to? obviously in this case it will be the bank but can i not just get it paid directly to me and pay the builder directly for the first 2 progress payments thus deferring the house loan until the 3rd progress so im not paying any interest for the bank to pay my money back to the builder???

[evoeata]

i think my FHOG went straight to the bank without even touching my account.

[jonn]

It was Dale Alcocks nephew

No it wasn't. It was a close relative of mine.

[jmp]

i think my FHOG went straight to the bank without even touching my account.

Same for me.

[Sensible]

No it wasn't. It was a close relative of mine.

Thats what we were told by the Supervisors that we work for at Dales

[RELEASE]

ok need some help from finance gurus, or anyone really.

i have my block which i am currently paying the mortgage on and am tryign to sort out my house finance.

as i settled on the block prior to organising the house i am due back $7,790 in stamp duty revenue and $10,000 in first home owners grant, so a grand total of $17,790.

now my broker is putting that as deposit on the loan for the house so as soon as the first draw down amount takes place i will start payiong for the loan (less deposit)

firstly who does the FHOG and stamp duty refund get paid to? obviously in this case it will be the bank but can i not just get it paid directly to me and pay the builder directly for the first 2 progress payments thus deferring the house loan until the 3rd progress so im not paying any interest for the bank to pay my money back to the builder???to qualify as a First Home Owner, you need a signed and executed building contract plus receipt of at least 1 progress payment. Once you have that you qualify as first home owner and then you can apply for the grant.
Once the grant is paid, then you apply (separate forms) for the stamp duty to be assessed. Then once accessed it is paid

Money can be paid into whatever account you nominate.
Generally you can't use it as fhog and stamp duty refund unless you do land and house package but your broker may be able to do it differently

[DRKWRX]

Don't think it matters if you have done the land and house under separate loans at the start, you need your fixed price building contract or whatever it's called, still waiting for ours so we can fill the form in, hope they don't get rid of it anytime soon!

[Pete]

Had my site inspection and meeting with the supervisor last night to go over a few things that i wanted checked on/done, and, after being the first meeting, he's come to relise my wife and I are both in construction and know quite a bit of knowledge together, that he's going to have problems if they start taking shortcuts.

Few things we asked for weren't done, but after going to check today, they've been rectified/solved. 1 of them was 1/2 of 1 of the driveways which we got charged for in the prestart that had been added on wasn't put in, and it was done today after a few " oh that's not our problem, even though it shows on the site plan we don't do things like that. "

And the other was we asked for a double rebated jarrah double entry door frame, we got to site, and sure enough, single rebated frame. After a bit of showing him the paperwork, voila, new door frame ( or they just rebated the other ) had arrived.

Also, the 4 week bricking has commenced.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t1/1607110_10152286641475917_48296568_n.jpg

He advised 4 weeks for bricks, and about 4 weeks for roof and covering.

We also asked for joints to be cut into the alfresco at 3m each way ( our alfresco is concrete with the same tiles we have internally, put on so it blends in through our stacker doors). And also asked for a bit thicker footings around the the alfresco, which he didn't hesitate to agree too.

Also got permission to go in during the easter break ( roof pending ) to build my theatre plynth, which is good, means i can get it down before the floor finishings are on, so it can all get carpeted and blend in.

We're getting there !

[mr_rotary]

Window frames look like they are upside-down.

[DRKWRX]

How did he think he would get away with the wrong front door? It's pretty obvious, he sounds a bit of a dickhead.

[Sensible]

How did he think he would get away with the wrong front door? It's pretty obvious, he sounds a bit of a dickhead.

With all builders the ordering takes place in the office, The supervisor wouldn't of even looked at the door frame until it was brought up by the owner

I have seen houses get all the way to lock up before this problem has been noted by the 2nd fix chippy, then they have to pull the frame out

Remember supervisors have 30+ houses on the go at any one time and they rely on the office getting things right the first time

[DRKWRX]

Well it should be on the plan, if the supervisor doesn't pick up on something like that I would be watching the build pretty carefully.

[mr_rotary]

Well it should be on the plan, if the supervisor doesn't pick up on something like that I would be watching the build pretty carefully.Not always. It should be marked in the addenda to be picked up by scheduling.

[mitchy]

it's not uncommon for supers to be using plans that are 5 revisions old either...

[kamahl31]

Got my pre-start coming up soonish, thoughts on hot water system choice? solar? gas?

Also is it worth going 3 phase power? its a reasonably large (241m2 living) place and I'm not sure whether to opt for it or not, mainly for the size of the air conditioner. And pardon my noobness on the matter, but will going solar potentially down the track matter with this?

[cplagz]

Got my pre-start coming up soonish, thoughts on hot water system choice? solar? gas?

Also is it worth going 3 phase power? its a reasonably large (241m2 living) place and I'm not sure whether to opt for it or not, mainly for the size of the air conditioner. And pardon my noobness on the matter, but will going solar potentially down the track matter with this?

Instantaneous gas. As for 3 phase, depends how much they want to sting you for it and what current draw you A/C unit will run. Standard residential supply is 32A iirc.

[YOUR MATE]

Spend a bit more on appliances etc up front. I upgraded the gas storage to instant gas hot water, as well as only got 4+ star water/power rating appliances and with 3 people in my place I am using less power and gas than a mate and his mrs alone. Not keeping water hot all day sure makes a difference. Don't be afraid to ask them to chuck it in for nothing either. i got a fucking massive Daiken A/C unit, bigger than the things we use at work, for nothing. Thing is taller than I am. And somehow more efficient than the smaller ones.

[mr_rotary]

Got my pre-start coming up soonish, thoughts on hot water system choice? solar? gas?

Also is it worth going 3 phase power? its a reasonably large (241m2 living) place and I'm not sure whether to opt for it or not, mainly for the size of the air conditioner. And pardon my noobness on the matter, but will going solar potentially down the track matter with this?Also agree with the Instantaneous gas. Make sure it's close to wet areas if you want better performance. Plenty of single phase A/C that can cool that sized area. Cost to upgrade to 3-Phase in Perth metro is not that much, around an extra $10/m. Meterbox also needs to be upgraded at around $350. If you are on a large rural block, it's more cost effective on long runs to go 3-phase.

[cplagz]

Spend a bit more on appliances etc up front. I upgraded the gas storage to instant gas hot water, as well as only got 4+ star water/power rating appliances and with 3 people in my place I am using less power and gas than a mate and his mrs alone. Not keeping water hot all day sure makes a difference. Don't be afraid to ask them to chuck it in for nothing either. i got a fucking massive Daiken A/C unit, bigger than the things we use at work, for nothing. Thing is taller than I am. And somehow more efficient than the smaller ones.

Compressor unit doesn't have to work as hard to maintain temperature. unit thats too small = compressor on 24/7 busting its arse. overspec A/C and she handle it no worries.

[DRKWRX]

I wouldnt sign off my plans until it had what I want on it, my front door has changed three times and each time they have changed it on our plans, just gives the builder a way of getting out of it, the amount of times I have asked a supervisor about something and he just says oh well thats whats on the plans.....

[mr_rotary]

I wouldnt sign off my plans until it had what I want on it, my front door has changed three times and each time they have changed it on our plans, just gives the builder a way of getting out of it, the amount of times I have asked a supervisor about something and he just says oh well thats whats on the plans.....Lol, addenda overrides the plans. What is on the plans does not mean jack.

[DRKWRX]

well what ever has the list of shit I have chosen and signed off on, everyone feels sorry for the supervisors but most the ones I deal with are fucking terrible, you have to keep an eye on your own build, if the addenda does not match the plans no wonder so many fuck ups happen.

[mr_rotary]

well what ever has the list of shit I have chosen and signed off on, everyone feels sorry for the supervisors but most the ones I deal with are fucking terrible, you have to keep an eye on your own build, if the addenda does not match the plans no wonder so many fuck ups happen.Oh it's the draftee's fault for not drawing it on the plans.

Yes, you do need to keep an eye on things as ultimately you are the one signing off. Irrespective of what you said to the rep or NHA. Plans are there only to build a house while the addenda/specification is what the house is constructed off and what is in it hence why it's so important.

[DRKWRX]

well thats what I am saying if you have it in paper and have signed off on it than its the builders fault, I dont care who's fault in the office, I measure/fit bifolds/stacking doors etc and I only get the plan so its upto the builder or reps to pick up fucks ups I guess.

[mitchy]

Oh it's the draftee's fault for not drawing it on the plans.

it's always the draftee's fault, haha!

[matty12]

Compressor unit doesn't have to work as hard to maintain temperature. unit thats too small = compressor on 24/7 busting its arse. overspec A/C and she handle it no worries. I'm not much into commercial refrigeration but over sizing can be an issue as well. You must also check that the system can unload enough when demand is low. Some system can't do that(there is a technical term which I can't remember) and so will run hard than required.

[DRKWRX]

^ramp down.

[Joe]

Now that my capital has been freed (business sold), this has been finalised.. pretty excited about this, and gives me a dedicated area to set up my coffee machine, grinders, a jug washer and all my alternative brewing equipment.

http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/rr131/balistc/A33COFFEEBARLAYOUTS-1_20.jpg

My coffee machine will be plumbed in with 3 stage filtration mounted in a cupboard underneath (with false drawer fascias in front of it so it blends in with the rest of the drawers). I'll also have a jug washer plumbed in, rather than going the sink route.. more compact and means I don't have to cut into my bench space.

Haven't determined a splashback yet but we're probably going to go with the same stone as the bench top, but in 10mm thickness.

[MadDocker]

Stainless steel panel as a splash back. Seen a few and they look tops with all the appliances etc.

Either that or a jew gold panel...

[d1mitch]

stainless does look good, im a big fan of the glass splashbacks atm.

[RELEASE]

+1 for the glass one. We did that for our kitchen and love it

[[Jacek]]

Now that my capital has been freed (business sold), this has been finalised.. pretty excited about this, and gives me a dedicated area to set up my coffee machine, grinders, a jug washer and all my alternative brewing equipment.

My coffee machine will be plumbed in with 3 stage filtration mounted in a cupboard underneath (with false drawer fascias in front of it so it blends in with the rest of the drawers). I'll also have a jug washer plumbed in, rather than going the sink route.. more compact and means I don't have to cut into my bench space.

Haven't determined a splashback yet but we're probably going to go with the same stone as the bench top, but in 10mm thickness.

Not sure what kind of drawers you are going for there, but whatever you do do not go for the "push to open" drawers. They are the biggest pain in the arse ever. Had them at my old house (high quality ones, unsure of the brand) and they get really annoying. Instead of just grabbing a handle and opening the drawer in one motion, you have to push the drawer first, then wait for it (yes, only a fraction of a second), then grab it and pull it out...sounds petty but its a pain in the arse when in a rush or opening multiple drawers and also will result in your whole kitchen being covered with fingerprints, all the time. Just trying to help a fellow OCD out here...I can see you are going for that clean minimal appearance but there has got to be a better way!

[Joe]

Yeah didn't go for push to opens, its standard pull to open with soft close :) We don't have handles either, we put Hafele drawer pull channels in throughout.

Kitchen splashbacks are stone, so that's why I'm contemplating doing the same for the bar (which is next to the kitchen). Our island bench is galaxy black whilst the bench tops where the ovens are, the splashback, and the bar are galaxy white. The island bench has a row of piano black drawers under the black benchtop, with the rest in white.. the Hafele channels are colour coded black/white to match the drawers they are fitted to. There is already going to be a million fingerprints, so anything to minimise these is helpful :P

OCD is definitely an understatement, I thought modding a car was tough, a house is absolutely out of control. I've done certain things in the house purely because I know its there, even though no one else will ever notice it.

[Nugs]

;1180012']Not sure what kind of drawers you are going for there, but whatever you do do not go for the "push to open" drawers. They are the biggest pain in the arse ever. Had them at my old house (high quality ones, unsure of the brand) and they get really annoying. Instead of just grabbing a handle and opening the drawer in one motion, you have to push the drawer first, then wait for it (yes, only a fraction of a second), then grab it and pull it out...sounds petty but its a pain in the arse when in a rush or opening multiple drawers and also will result in your whole kitchen being covered with fingerprints, all the time. Just trying to help a fellow OCD out here...I can see you are going for that clean minimal appearance but there has got to be a better way!
I hate push to open, if you accidentally lean on them they open as well.

[d1mitch]

how about those electric motorised opening cupoard /drawers, they seem cool but i think they would end up being annoying as fuck for the same reasons

[[Jacek]]

I hate push to open, if you accidentally lean on them they open as well.

My blood is boiling just thinking about this. So much hate.

The electric ones are cool but still a pain if not more of a pain due to the wait time, we had one on our bin.

[mitchy]

soft close is all you want. everything else is gimmicky shit that is more hindrance than help.

[d1mitch]

ok guys i need some opinions, i have three options on what to do with my ensuite window. i have drawn perspectives of each (stupid imgur has flipped them on their sides so sorry to everyones neck)

basically i am doing a full height window in the shower and am deciding on the width. the options are as follows

1. 1310 window - $no charge
2. 1410 window - $432
3. 1610 window - $500

the ensuite is 1670 wide so with each of the options the amount of wall to the sides of the window decreases
1. 1310 window – left with 360mm of wall
2. 1410 window – left with 260mm of wall
-with both these two option I would offset the window to one side (front of house side) and have the nib wall just on one side with the perpendicular wall continuing the line straight outside, see perspectives.
3. 1610 window – left with 60mm of wall
-with this option I would obviously centre the window and have 30mm on either side.


Really the decision is between the 1310 and the 1610 sized window as I see no benefit to gaining 100mm for $432 but I can see benefit on gaining 300mm for $500. It’s not like it’s something I can change later on.

http://i.imgur.com/WE1jy8E.png

[SimonR32]

It's a massive window regardless, I would be going the smallest and spending cash elsewhere

[DRKWRX]

why do you want a full length window in the shower? just another place for mould n shit to grow.

[d1mitch]

because i like to do things differently haha, its the things that are different that will make your house stand out down the track when time comes to sell... and the amount of natural light in the bathroom will be incredible.

i have never had mould grow in a shower to date so i dont plan on starting now

[mitchy]

ok guys i need some opinions, i have three options on what to do with my ensuite window. i have drawn perspectives of each (stupid imgur has flipped them on their sides so sorry to everyones neck)

basically i am doing a full height window in the shower and am deciding on the width. the options are as follows

1. 1310 window - $no charge
2. 1410 window - $432
3. 1610 window - $500

the ensuite is 1670 wide so with each of the options the amount of wall to the sides of the window decreases
1. 1310 window – left with 360mm of wall
2. 1410 window – left with 260mm of wall
-with both these two option I would offset the window to one side (front of house side) and have the nib wall just on one side with the perpendicular wall continuing the line straight outside, see perspectives.
3. 1610 window – left with 60mm of wall
-with this option I would obviously centre the window and have 30mm on either side.


Really the decision is between the 1310 and the 1610 sized window as I see no benefit to gaining 100mm for $432 but I can see benefit on gaining 300mm for $500. It’s not like it’s something I can change later on.

going off the window sizes, you are building with 2 course face brick. firstly you may need to move the wall that you want the window hard up against, as the windows can only be moved in 100mm increments without cutting bricks, otherwise you'll have a nib wall on both sides.

secondly, the small nib wall of the 1610 window will look terrible. personally i'd choose the 1310 window. cheapest, to me it looks better, and it also gives you a wall to mount shower shelves on for shampoo, etc.

i quite like the idea though as you'll have lots of natural light which is always a good thing. are they going to be fixed panels of obscured glass?