Nic_A31
04-09-2011, 02:16 PM
Hey guys, having a bit of a weird problem here, I'll give as much information as I can:
About 2 weeks ago, my clutch was acting a little funny.
The first symptom, sometimes after changing into a gear, when I put my foot down, it'd skip, and then drive normally, felt kind of like the fork was stuck.
On the way home the clutch began to slip, in high revs, eventually the revs got lower and lower, very quickly (first started slipping at 5k, eventually wouldn't hold over 3k)
Figured the clutch was goners, so got everything I needed, jacked the car up, and noticed the fork was actually stuck halfway, and when I pushed it back, I got covered in fluid.
Traced the leak back to the master cylinder, coming from what looks like a drain bolt??, half way between the fitting to the hard line, and the firewall.
Replaced the master cylinder with a brand newie, and she was all good for another week or so.
Today, the clutch pedal got stuck around the 1/3 mark, but despite that, the clutch re-engaged, and I was able to drive off the main road into a car park, and pull the pedal up with my foot, and after that, the pedal was fine again all afternoon.
I have noticed lately that the first symptom has returned (feels like clutch is sort of stuck until I hit the throttle).
Is this a problem with the push rod on the master cylinder where connects to the pedal?
or is this the clutch fusing onto the flywheel or pressure plate?
Standard R32 GT-R clutch in an RB20 Gearbox.
The clutch line setup is just a hard line straight down from the master cylinder, that joins the rubber line. It doesn't have one of those weird boxes with a third bleed point.
The clutch pedal is slack for about the first 30% (I've countered this by winding that bolt down, so the pedal simply rests lower), then there's about 20-40mm of light feel, and then the clutch bites and what I guess is the halfway mark of the total pedal travel distance.
I know the clutch is meant to bite lower, but no matter how I set up the push-rod, it doesn't seem to be that way.
About 2 weeks ago, my clutch was acting a little funny.
The first symptom, sometimes after changing into a gear, when I put my foot down, it'd skip, and then drive normally, felt kind of like the fork was stuck.
On the way home the clutch began to slip, in high revs, eventually the revs got lower and lower, very quickly (first started slipping at 5k, eventually wouldn't hold over 3k)
Figured the clutch was goners, so got everything I needed, jacked the car up, and noticed the fork was actually stuck halfway, and when I pushed it back, I got covered in fluid.
Traced the leak back to the master cylinder, coming from what looks like a drain bolt??, half way between the fitting to the hard line, and the firewall.
Replaced the master cylinder with a brand newie, and she was all good for another week or so.
Today, the clutch pedal got stuck around the 1/3 mark, but despite that, the clutch re-engaged, and I was able to drive off the main road into a car park, and pull the pedal up with my foot, and after that, the pedal was fine again all afternoon.
I have noticed lately that the first symptom has returned (feels like clutch is sort of stuck until I hit the throttle).
Is this a problem with the push rod on the master cylinder where connects to the pedal?
or is this the clutch fusing onto the flywheel or pressure plate?
Standard R32 GT-R clutch in an RB20 Gearbox.
The clutch line setup is just a hard line straight down from the master cylinder, that joins the rubber line. It doesn't have one of those weird boxes with a third bleed point.
The clutch pedal is slack for about the first 30% (I've countered this by winding that bolt down, so the pedal simply rests lower), then there's about 20-40mm of light feel, and then the clutch bites and what I guess is the halfway mark of the total pedal travel distance.
I know the clutch is meant to bite lower, but no matter how I set up the push-rod, it doesn't seem to be that way.