How to run in feshly built forged motor?

[Ibz]

I've been hearing mixed thoughts about how to run in a rebuilt motor... its a rb26..

Just want to know how you guys do it?

cheers

[mitchy]

do what your tuna says

[Oversteer]

Have the car completely ready to drive on first start....don`t dick around with it and idel etc.

The first 30-50Km is the most important for the rings, you must get them to expand and loaded....WOT low revs(<4K)...vary revs and load rings for first 100Km, then drive normally for ~700-1000 with a leanish run in tune before going to dyno and having you first tune.

Big hp situations(500+atw/25psi+) you should do 1500-2000Km before that(so mayb e 2 times on the dyno...700Km stop at 400hp, the after 2K go nuts !)

Don`t baby it, don`t idle it too much, vary revs...once its done 600+ teach it to rev by doing runs up to 5000rpm, for ~100, then to 6000rpm for ~50Km then to redline...don`t hold sustained revs or no load revs.

[Marti]

Do what your tuner/engine builder has said, this topic was covered not long ago, I'm sure you will find it of you search. From personal experience my tuner gave me 5000 kms with normal low boost driving and a 4000rpm limiter, then the oil was changed and a full tune was done

[ForgedV6]

The below is copied from the L67 forum. Below is the best that came from it.

(1)
Some may know that i am currently running in my new engine. So far ive done 200kms.

Before i got the car back i searched the net for either a step by step guide to running an engine in or information to help formulate a procedure to follow. However theres not to many staight answers, theres alot on bike engines and one link that always pops up regarding 'driving it like you stole it'. Google search provides a few other forum discussions however the responses are always varied.

I have learnt that the main issue with run in is seating the rings to the cylinder bore.

BYE P did the first start up and initial run in with certain oil and it did roughly 12kms. From all the information i gathered before i got the car back, BYE Performance and the engine builders directions, this is what i have been doing;
-Start up as normal (dont let it idle to op temp)
-Shift the auto manually.
-The first 5mins ill use 1/4 throttle and rev to 2-2.5k then change to next gear.
-Still using 1/4 throttle ill start reving it out to 2.5-3k from stop to top gear.
-Engine is most likely at op temp now.
-1/4 throttle acceleration again reving to 3-3.5k from a stop to top gear.
-Place the engine under load, so drive up a hill in a gear higher that normal. For example ill drive up a hill and accelerate from 70-80, 80-90 & 90-100 in 4th gear with 1/4 throttle. In 3rd gear accelerating from 40 through to 70 with 1/4 throttle.
-A few accelerations from stop to 100 reving to 4-4.2k at 1/4 throttle.
-Dont sit on the same speed/rev for long periods of time, vary the revs. Hence at 100 on the freeway drop it back to 3rd for a few kms.
-This is for the first 500km

(2)
Ive sometimes found metal shavings in the oil if freshly built motors from different builders.

It mostly comes from the bores after they have been done and gets stuck somewhere.

Even after a thourough clean sometimes it still apears.

I crank a motor with no fuel/spark till it has oil pressure and oil is up top the motor.

Then fire it up and dependant on what cam it has as to how long I hold the revs up or what ever usually 15mins of running. Then I shut it off, drop the oil, have a quick look.

Then fresh oil. Do 500km, find some hills to lightly load the rings so they bed well.

Then dyno time.

Thats just what I do, others prob do it different.

(3)
These are the steps I follow when running in MY engines.

1. Read the camshaft manufacturers recommendations on what is required for the bedding in of there cams.
If there is a special procedure, FOLLOW IT.

2. Use a full mineral based oil with no additives at all, this is VERY important.

3. Remove fuel pump fuse and crank motor WITHOUT the spark plugs fitted until oil pressure comes up. if the oil pressure does not come up after a few seconds of cranking, do not continue to crank the motor.

4. Fit plugs, and fuel pump fuse, double check water and oil and look under car for leaks. NOTE do not use any coolant in the system, only water.

5. See step 1. If there is no need to bed the cam, I start the engine and let idle for about 30 seconds while listening for noises that should not be there. If there are no noises apparent then I lift the revs to 2000RPM for about 5 minutes. Whilst doing this make sure to look for any leaks and keep a eye on the temperature. After about 5 minutes let the engine come back to idle for a couple of minutes and then shut engine off. Recheck all fluids, looking carefully for cross contamination.

6. If you know your tune is safe then find some nice hills or a good dyno. Don't baby the engine, load it up, but don't start to rev the crap out of it. I use a higher gear and go from about 1200 to 4500 I do this straight away and repeat this about 20 times. After about 20 times I start to extend the RPM range by adding about 200 rpm each time. I continue this until I have reached the rev cut. Once I have reached the RPM cut, I do runs from low rpm all the way through to the rev cut. Again I repeat this step several times.

7. Drain the run in oil, I am lucky if I do more than 250KM on the run in oil. Check the oil for particles and cross contamination. Drain water and add coolant. Add oil that you are going to use for the life of the engine. Pull plugs and check for any unusual marks.

8. Get out and enjoy your engine responsibly.

Foot notes.
The run in procedure is mainly for the bedding of the rings or the cam shaft (see step 1). If the engine has been built correctly the cam, rod, and main bearings settle very quickly.
Getting the piston rings bedded* is the most important part of the run in procedure.
The rings seal by gases pushing the rings out towards the cylinder wall, if these are not pushed out evenly or with enough pressure they may not bed correctly and this can result in a wet motor or a motor that has excessive blow by.**

*note. The CORRECT fitting of the piston rings is very important, not only do you have to get the end gap correct, you have to be very careful what oil you use to coat the bores and how much you use. I have watched people use excessive amounts of oil when fitting piston and rings into the bore. This can also cause a wet motor even if the engine is bedded correctly.

**note. Blow by is caused by the gases in the cylinder passing the piston rings. All engines have a little blow by but long story short, the less blow by you have the better seal you have. As the gases escape from the cylinder you reduce the amount of power that you can generate.

This is the way i do it. There will be people that disagree with my methods and to be honest I don't really care. I have done it this way from my first motor build (about 25 years ago) and will continue to do it this way.

[Joe]

Limiter

[TJ]

Drive it like youll always drive it.

[mys1]

Start Car

Drive home and back, Check for leaks or issues.

Put on Dyno

25 p.s.i. Game on!

Seriously, should be built well enough for this if its a forged motor!

Let the motor know what its in for from day dot, don't pussy foot around the situation!

[TJ]

Run it in so your passengers instinctively grab the panic bar

[Ibz]

Have the car completely ready to drive on first start....don`t dick around with it and idel etc.

The first 30-50Km is the most important for the rings, you must get them to expand and loaded....WOT low revs(<4K)...vary revs and load rings for first 100Km, then drive normally for ~700-1000 with a leanish run in tune before going to dyno and having you first tune.

Big hp situations(500+atw/25psi+) you should do 1500-2000Km before that(so mayb e 2 times on the dyno...700Km stop at 400hp, the after 2K go nuts !)

Don`t baby it, don`t idle it too much, vary revs...once its done 600+ teach it to rev by doing runs up to 5000rpm, for ~100, then to 6000rpm for ~50Km then to redline...don`t hold sustained revs or no load revs.


hmm. interesting... Yeah i was told the first 50km was the most important...

But i was told to let the car warm up, then take it for a drive but to rev it hard for the first 50kms, obviously not to rev limiter but get it up in the rev range... Then start to keep it at low revs after that for the next 2000km...

Also dropping the oil after 50ks, then 500ks, 1000ks, 2000ks...


Do what your tuner/engine builder has said, this topic was covered not long ago, I'm sure you will find it of you search. From personal experience my tuner gave me 5000 kms with normal low boost driving and a 4000rpm limiter, then the oil was changed and a full tune was done

I didnt ask for an answer to go look at another topic...


The reason i made the topic is because some people are saying to keep it under 4k for 2000km, some saying rev it hard for the first few kms, some saying you only need to run it in for 500ks...

Has anyone got any explanations on them, an what would be recommended.. Thanks for your input Oversteer... anyone else have there way of running it in

Also like to know how regularly to drop the oil... And should i be running it without a tune for 50kms? or get a quick tune first and then start running it?

[AGIT8D]

Step 1) Throw keys to reputable tuner

Step 2) Pick up car when engine is run in and tuned

[Buckets]

Limiter, change gear... Limiter, change gear... More limiter you get the idea :p

[RELEASE]

whatever your tuner/engine builder tell you just do that. they know whats best for your engine as every engine is different.

[Ibz]

ForgedV6 thanks for the informative write up...


Start Car

Drive home and back, Check for leaks or issues.

Put on Dyno

25 p.s.i. Game on!

Seriously, should be built well enough for this if its a forged motor!

Let the motor know what its in for from day dot, don't pussy foot around the situation!

This is what i've been told to do...



Heres a link i found on the net a few weeks ago... I know its for motorbikes, but this tuner, engineer recommends it for all motor vehicles... This is one of the most informative webpages i've seen on the web for awhile, have a read and go through his other topics...

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[Marti]

Change the oil when ever you want, I change mine every 5000kms regardless if it gets driven every day or once a week, I will how ever change the oil after a race day or similar event

[Ibz]

yea i will be changing it every 5000kms also, i meant during the running in...

Is necessary to change oil at 500ks, then 1000ks, 1500ks, and 2000ks for the first 2000ks?

[cplagz]

burnouts, lots of them.

[Marti]

Again you need to ask the tuner, mine was changed at 1000 then at 2000 kms with synthetic oil

[AGIT8D]

If it's an expensive motor why restrict yourself to 5000km? My motor is far from a big dollar build, it's done 5000km and probably had 4-5 oil changes, a couple of those during run in alone.

The guy who I was dealing with when my motor was built used to change his oil monthly, usually at around 1000km. Oil is cheap insurance for engine longevity, that's just my opinion and understanding of it. I've never read any info to support or argue that.

[Marti]

I understand but personally my car will be driven 3 times a month of it's lucky

[Ibz]

If it's an expensive motor why restrict yourself to 5000km? My motor is far from a big dollar build, it's done 5000km and probably had 4-5 oil changes, a couple of those during run in alone.

The guy who I was dealing with when my motor was built used to change his oil monthly, usually at around 1000km. Oil is cheap insurance for engine longevity, that's just my opinion and understanding of it. I've never read any info to support or argue that.

yea your right but when your going to be running 9L+ sump, oil changes are going to be real expensive...

[Turbo2.6L]

Changing oil after 1000kms is ridiculous, unless it is showing signs of being subjected to excessive heat/abuse. 5000kms is reasonable in any car unless being tracked or severely abused.
I used to do the oil in my F6 after 5000kms & it seen the drags every wednesday, No Limits occasionally & was driven stupidly hard on the street. Most times it came out as gold as the day it went in, but there was the odd occasion where it probably could have been dropped a little earlier due to track time > road time.
If you want good insurance on your engine, build it with good gear & have someone with half a clue put it all together. Simple :D

Oh, smash limiter from day 1 for run in. Rings will bed correctly & the engine will know it's in there for business, not a holiday!

[R3N]

Go for a hills run

[Oversteer]

hmm. interesting... Yeah i was told the first 50km was the most important...

But i was told to let the car warm up, then take it for a drive but to rev it hard for the first 50kms, obviously not to rev limiter but get it up in the rev range... Then start to keep it at low revs after that for the next 2000km...

Also dropping the oil after 50ks, then 500ks, 1000ks, 2000ks...



I didnt ask for an answer to go look at another topic...


The reason i made the topic is because some people are saying to keep it under 4k for 2000km, some saying rev it hard for the first few kms, some saying you only need to run it in for 500ks...

Has anyone got any explanations on them, an what would be recommended.. Thanks for your input Oversteer... anyone else have there way of running it in

Also like to know how regularly to drop the oil... And should i be running it without a tune for 50kms? or get a quick tune first and then start running it?


What ecu/tune has it got in it....you want no bore washing/richness for run in...lean and dry.

Revving it may wear the rings in faster but its not good for bearings etc...just WOT(or near to it) it to ~4K and for the run in period as with every time you drive it don`t belt it cold !

You could change the oil at a few hundred k`s if your worried that the assembly process wasn`t cleanly done, change oil after run in before it goes on the dyno then a 5k interval suits most engines using good oil....no synthetic oils for run-in either ! use a cheap mineral oil.

[Ibz]

chears for the input guys...



What ecu/tune has it got in it....you want no bore washing/richness for run in...lean and dry.

Revving it may wear the rings in faster but its not good for bearings etc...just WOT(or near to it) it to ~4K and for the run in period as with every time you drive it don`t belt it cold !

You could change the oil at a few hundred k`s if your worried that the assembly process wasn`t cleanly done, change oil after run in before it goes on the dyno then a 5k interval suits most engines using good oil....no synthetic oils for run-in either ! use a cheap mineral oil.

I'll definitely have to get it tuned before i drive it... Yea your right coz i'm going to be running 1600cc injectors, so i'll have to get the tune lean...

Sounds alright... What type of mineral oil would you recommend and what weight... I guess mineral oil is used because a fully synthetic limits the friction on the bores.. Is that right?

[mARC]

I'm in the exact same boat as you mate, was told to keep the car under 3,000rpm till I had all top end modifications set 'not that I drove it anywhere besides where it was put together from to my tuners'.

I was told pretty much keep the revs a little over/under 5,000 for the first 2,000kms then bring it back for a proper tune.

I doubt I'll attempt to smash limiter till about 4-5,000kms.

Fuck going through all that expense and down time again for a lousy few thousand kms.


I'll definitely have to get it tuned before i drive it... Yea your right coz i'm going to be running 1600cc injectors, so i'll have to get the tune lean...

I was advised against a tune when I droped my car off 'only had about 54kms on the block'. They just set the top end up and told me to come back when I had more k's on the block.

[Ibz]

oh ok... But yea like Oversteer said in his post you dont want to be washing your bores... I'm also going with another ecu so i'll need it to be tuned lean...

[Marti]

You can buy a specific running in oil from coventries or veales

[Ibz]

Alright, i'll look into it..

[Oversteer]

Penrite make a running in oil, or you can just use the cheapest gulf western or mobil or even magnatec is mineral enough, i use a diesel 15/40 just cause a have acces to a 44 or it !...10 40 or there abouts is the go.

For high hp after run-in the castrol 10/60 has proven its self in competition or the mobil1 10/50

You planning on running e85 ? 1600`s...maybe use stock injectors for run in, i used 440`s for run in then swapped them out for 1000`s for tune, I have a wideband and collection of tunes so I can get the afr i require easy.

[Ibz]

Penrite make a running in oil, or you can just use the cheapest gulf western or mobil or even magnatec is mineral enough, i use a diesel 15/40 just cause a have acces to a 44 or it !...10 40 or there abouts is the go.

For high hp after run-in the castrol 10/60 has proven its self in competition or the mobil1 10/50

You planning on running e85 ? 1600`s...maybe use stock injectors for run in, i used 440`s for run in then swapped them out for 1000`s for tune, I have a wideband and collection of tunes so I can get the afr i require easy.

I think Penrite is the way to go...

Couldnt i get the 1600 tuned to be lean... yea i'm going to be running e85 after the run in...

Or would you recommend just switching to stock injectors for 2000ks?

[Oversteer]

What ecu do you have, what have you got a tune for now(injectors, setup etc)?

Tuning 1600`s lean at low idc would still be crude.

[Ibz]

I'm going to be running a new ecu... Vipec..

Probably use stock injectors then ay....

[Marti]

Penrite make a running in oil, or you can just use the cheapest gulf western or mobil or even magnatec is mineral enough, i use a diesel 15/40 just cause a have acces to a 44 or it !...10 40 or there abouts is the go.

For high hp after run-in the castrol 10/60 has proven its self in competition or the mobil1 10/50

You planning on running e85 ? 1600`s...maybe use stock injectors for run in, i used 440`s for run in then swapped them out for 1000`s for tune, I have a wideband and collection of tunes so I can get the afr i require easy.

castrol 10-60 is what i use now

[_oz]

When the engine first starts, dont just let it idle at a particular rpm for ages, i hear that is bad for the rings, the first start should be varying the revs quite abit. If its already got a decent tune on it, set the limiter to around 5000rpm and keep doing smooth WOT runs, probably not over 1bar of boost but i dont think it would hurt if its a little bit more.

If its got a new ecu in it without a tune, i wouldnt start it unless ready to go onto a dyno as soon as it reaches running temp so you dont wash the bores with too much fuel. I think thats the worst that can happen if all the engine hardware is ok.

[Ibz]

When the engine first starts, dont just let it idle at a particular rpm for ages, i hear that is bad for the rings, the first start should be varying the revs quite abit. If its already got a decent tune on it, set the limiter to around 5000rpm and keep doing smooth WOT runs, probably not over 1bar of boost but i dont think it would hurt if its a little bit more.

If its got a new ecu in it without a tune, i wouldnt start it unless ready to go onto a dyno as soon as it reaches running temp so you dont wash the bores with too much fuel. I think thats the worst that can happen if all the engine hardware is ok.

Yea its got a new ecu... So i think my best bet is to just put some stock injectors in, tow the car to the tuner, get a lean tune and which will also help to vary the revs abit on first start up aswell...

[_oz]

As long as the tuner trims the 1600cc injectors down to safe level on immediate startup i dont see a problem, but if he cant then.. i guess theres a problem with that :P

[_oz]

Sorry, he/she. :D

[Ibz]

all good... I'll have to find out if he's able to do that, which i think he can, but i'll double check..

Cheers for the help boys