'Tog Talk

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

I thought i'd make this for general talk/questions and whatnot instead of creating new threads all the time asking questions that may have already been answered in the past.

The first bit of contribution.

Canon 5Dmk II 2.0.9 - Update (http://support-hk.canon-asia.com/contents/HK/EN/0400032202.html)

A few members have been hitting me up for advice on purchasing new gear and where to get equipment. So i'll write up a basic 'buyers guide' over the next couple of days and insert it in here.

Corbs

Lengthy i know. But with this, you should be able to grasp a good concept on what you should be looking for.


Why do I want a DSLR?

Well I cant answer that question for you. You, as much as you want the thing should really have a reason to purchase such a high ticket item. DSLRs have many different benefits over your standard point and shoot (P&S) models.

First off is the image quality. They produce a better quality image due to the better optics, sensor sizes and configuration.

The ability to adapt your camera to what you want to take photos of. Various lenses can get you as far away or as close to the action you require. Some of the larger brands offer more lenses than some but the main players usually have a lens to cover every type of photography.

ISO is the sensitivity in which the camera's sensor can expose an image. This sensitivity helps capture an image in a low light situation.

The higher the iso, the faster the image is exposed, the more noise in an image.

DSLR sensors usually come in 3 sizes.

Four thirds: The smallest of the DSLR sensors, these are used in small form factor cameras. They offer the convienience of a smaller camera with the quality of a digital SLR.

APS-C: The middle of the range, most amateur cameras will have an APS-C sensor. This offers a good combination of price vs quality.
Full Frame: Most pros will use full frame sensors due to the good ISO handing and image quality. This comes at a larger cost.

Digital SLRs let you be creative. With a larger camera body, you can fit lots more fuctionality into it. This is not limited to your auto scenes. Manual control, external flash control, low light capabilities, depth of field control and camera RAW functionality help enable this.

Most people with a point and shoot will have a gripe about its ability to take images with speed. DSLRs do not suffer the same pain as point and shoots, some having up to 10 shots per second capability (of course at cost).

They also have an optical viewfinder, with the ability to see exactly what you are taking an image of. This also extends the battery life, letting you take over 500 photos on a single charge.

Now why shouldnt I buy a DSLR?

The biggest contributing factor is cost. Costs can go between about $600 to over $10000 for some camera bodies (the camera without any lenses)

They are also large in size, unlike your P&S, it wont fit in the handbag or pocket.

The DLSR is just like a sports car. Harder to control than your average small car. Once you learn to control it, its not an issue but its a huge learning curve in contrast to your average camera.

I heard i need good 'glass', what does that mean?
Well when people say you need good glass, they mean decent quality lenses. Your camera will less desirable results if you use only average glass. If you take a peek into a professionals kit, you will see that the costs of there lenses far surpasses the cost of there camera bodies.

So what does this mean? It means that if you are starting out, the kit lenses (lenses that come with the camera) are usually sufficient to get you started in the world of photography. As you progress and increase your skill and knowledge you will invest more and more money into your lenses.

So how much does a good lens cost? How long is a piece of string? good lenses cost good money. once invested in some fast (low aperture) lenses, the quality of the product you can produce increases (given you still have the eye and creativity). The better quality lenses also last alot longer, can take more punishment and are seen as an investment. If you plan on going 'Pro', these investments can pay for themselves, better results mean more business...

So which DSLR should I buy?

Well here is another question you should be asking yourself! This is the most common question that is asked.

The answer? Which one do you NEED? We are all culprits to bowing down to the want monster. Truth is that the camera is a very small contributer to your abilities to take great images. You need a good eye and some creativity to go with that new, very expensive full frame or you are just wasting your money.

Many friends and "gear heads" will suggest specific brands and lenses. This is YOUR choice. Dont think just because bill down the road has one, you need one too. Buy what fits right for you.

Most DSLRs at a specific price range are in competition with each other. People will recommend brand and model as everyone has an opinion on a product. If you have been a film photographer you might find your lenses will fit the new DSLR you will purchase.

Depending on your desires within the photography world, depends on what body you choose to purchase. for example:

Crop sensors (APS-C) are great for sports. They give a magnification of 1.6x on your standard MM rating of your lens. A 100mm lens becomes a 160mm lens,just by putting it on the camera!

Full frame sensors (FF) are great for portrait and low light photography. This is due to the quality of the sensors and the space between each pixel (pixel density).

This doesn't mean that opposing cameras are bad at these jobs, just that some specific cameras do things better than others.

[mitchy]

ohh, prompted me to check the 7D, and there was an update in april 2011 too.
http://support-hk.canon-asia.com/contents/HK/EN/0400030402.html

i actually had the "Err 02" come up a few times whilst using high speed burst, and thought i had a dud card. turns out the updates fixes it!

[duste]

Opinions of an Olympus E500?

It will be the first DSLR for my sister-in-law.

[OLSKOOL1800]

Good Work on the thread Corbs!
Great idea ;-)

[XsQuiZiT]

I've got a D50 - a few years old now.

I've noticed when I shoot at low ISO the pic develops a pink/red tinge. Is the camera telling me to upgrade?

[MattyP]

My 2c for now...(will continue to edit as I have time)

Support - What do your close friends have?
You may think this isn’t important, but it sure does come in handy. Certain friends have called me to see if they can borrow camera bodies, flashes and lenses from time to time, and on the odd occasion these same friends have come to my rescue when I need to borrow something. 99% of the photographers I know shoot Canon, which helps me because I shoot with the same gear. If I was shooting another brand, straight away my external backup resource drops dramatically.

Lenses – What to get?
I’m fortunate that over the 10+ years in the industry I’ve been able to accumulate and use some of the best glass out there. In my line of work, I have to do all sorts of photography from advertising, sport and editorial and then outside of work I’ve done semi-commercial jobs to personal stuff from cars, weddings, family portraits and what not. So with that in mind, I personally need lenses that will cover all those bases for me.

Good glass is going to last a very long time. I still on occasions use my very first L-series lens (70-200mm f/2.8L USM) that I bought back in 1999, which still produces awesome images even compared to my brand new IS USM II version.

If you had lenses that covered from 18mm (wide angle) to 200-300mm (telephoto), you will be covered for most photography work whether it be cars, weddings, sport, family holiday etc. How you go about breaking the focal length into individual lenses comes down to budget and what you need at the time.

Here are some of my favourite picks in the Canon line up that shouldn’t break the bank. Most I've used at some stage and some I've owned before or currently.

15mm f/2.8 fisheye – I personally never saw myself getting this lens until I saw lots of extreme sport photos taken with it. Since then it has become one of my favourite lenses. You better hurry if you want to buy one as I’ve heard it will be discontinued and replaced with the 8-15mm fisheye L series, which will set you back a fair bit more than the ~$800 this fisheye does. I use this lens in lots of places from close up sport to funny portraits and scenic shots.

17-40mm f/4L USM – you don’t really need f/2.8 with wide angles unless you need the speed which is rare imo. The f/4 version is a nice bit of glass and best of all is L series too.

24-105mm f/4L USM – one thing I don’t like about my 24-70 f/2.8L is that the 70mm is just too short in focal length. With this 24-105 you get a nice balance of wide angle and telephoto in one.

50mm f/1.4 USM – one of the best non L-series lenses out there, and a virtual must have in your kit regardless of what sort of photography you do. Captures lovely portraits. It’s very sharp even when shooting at f/1.4.

70-200mm f/4L IS USM – poor man’s version of the f/2.8, but it still produces top notch images, fast focusing and light weight. Comes with IS which comes in handy when shooting at slow speeds.

85mm f/1.8 USM – another great portrait lens, great background blur.

100-300mm f/4.5-5.6 USM – at least it’s not EF-S spec, but this was one of my first lenses I used back in the day and produced some great images from it.

100mm macro f/2.8 - If you love your macro / close up work, the 100mm f/2.8 is pretty awesome. However the L-series with IS version isn't too much extra, so if you can afford that I would go with that instead. I've used the non L-series and have the current L-series version and it's a killer lens.

400mm f/5.6L USM – at ~$1500 this is a killer telephoto lens for those keen on a bit of sport photography from a distance. The quality is much better than using a 70-200mm f/2.8L with a 2x convertor.

A resource I use before buying Canon lenses is Photography On the Net's Lens Sample Photo Archive. This archive is full of members' photos using pretty much every lens that fits a Canon camera (even non Canon brand lenses, some of which are better).
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=107


Things that often come to my mind when buying gear from scratch:
Buying lots of average lenses now, or buying one good lens and building up my kit over time.
It depends on the level you want to take your photography too. The average Joe on the street probably couldn't care about image and build quality, so kit lens are fine. But if you see yourself wanting to take it to another level it may be wise to invest in some good glass, but it may mean you only have one lens to use while you save up to buy another lens. As I mentioned at the start, if you have friends that shoot with similar gear you could borrow their gear while you save up for your next item.

Brand new vs second hand
Brand new gear you at least know should be working perfectly fine, and with the prices you can get online (grey importers) its sometimes not much different to what people are commanding for 2nd hand local items. However you can pick up some professional lenses (or cameras) which work perfectly fine for a fraction of the original cost. I saw a Canon 1Ds Mk3 go for 2.2k on eBay, and a very well used 400mm f/2.8L USM for just over $3k recently (10k new).


------------------
Lighting Accessories / Support
If you're keen on developing your strobist work, you'll need to invest in some stands and flash diffusion accessories.

Currently I use Manfrotto 5001B light stands, which hold up both my Canon Speedlite flashes as well as my Elinchrom. They're light weight, portable and go up reasonably high. They're not badly priced at around $45+postage from B&H (http://bhphotovideo.com/) or locally they're around $100 each if you want them straight away.

I've used cheap light stands off eBay ($20-$30), all of which have broken or snapped on the job. The Manfrotto stands mentioned above I've put underwater in pools and at the beach and they're still going strong even after my abuse.

Flash diffusers (the rectangle type that fits snug over your flash head) are a must have for your flashes, and can be picked up for around $3 off eBay inc postage. Locally they can range from $15-$40, but they do exactly the same thing as the $3 jobs. They soften up the output of the flash, and if you use them with extra diffusion such as bouncing it off a wall, through a softbox or translucent umbrella the lighting can be magic.

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

Opinions of an Olympus E500?

It will be the first DSLR for my sister-in-law.

Its a pretty old camera. 5-6 Years old... How much is she getting it for?


I've got a D50 - a few years old now.

I've noticed when I shoot at low ISO the pic develops a pink/red tinge. Is the camera telling me to upgrade?

Honestly im not sure. ISO control shouldn't do that, especially when lowering the ISO.

Are you able to show me a comparison? Throw her in Aperture priority and post the same image with the difference in ISO.

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

Matty P - Great post mate. Thanks :)

[mod]

What Lens do you guy recommend for low light usage?
PS I have a Nikon D7000

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

What Lens do you guy recommend for low light usage?
PS I have a Nikon D7000

What is your use?

IE: Wide angle, more versitile lens, telephoto?

Usually you would go for something with a small aperture number like a 2.8. But if you could get away with using a prime something like a 50mm f/1.4 that would also suit well.

[mod]

more of less wide angle and Indoor use(no flash)
maybe bit of building/architecture

EDIT: been reading reviews on 35mm F/1.8 is the goer too

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

I would look at the Nikon 24-70 f/2.8 or if you wanna save some cash the Sigma Alternative.

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

EDIT: been reading reviews on 35mm F/1.8 is the goer too

Yep, 35 Prime is a lovely lens. But not so versatile... Especially on a Crop Sensor.

[mod]

I would look at the Nikon 24-70 f/2.8 or if you wanna save some cash the Sigma Alternative.

My level of photography does not warrant me getting that lens yet :)

I'll go in store and have a looksie try on each lens

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

My level of photography does not warrant me getting that lens yet :)

I'll go in store and have a looksie try on each lens

Whats your ideal budget?

[morgazmatron]

more of less wide angle and Indoor use(no flash)
maybe bit of building/architecture

EDIT: been reading reviews on 35mm F/1.8 is the goer too

I have this lens and love it.

It was a great addition to my kit. I use it all the time.

[duste]

Its a pretty old camera. 5-6 Years old... How much is she getting it for?

They're on eBay for a couple hundred atm, there was one with 4 lenses total, external flash, etc that went for ~$450.

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

Duste, the only thing is when she gets right into it... she'll see the light and want to jump ship over to Canon/Nikon after she's already laid out of the cash.

IMO and I stress that. Stay with the two leading brands and spend a little extra and buy something tha'ts currently in the market, not something 5-6 years old. Less possible heartache and little to no loss for the future.

Try looking around for a 500D with a kit lens or the Nikon equivalent. Is still current as far as camera's go and matched with some decent glass she'll be shooting like a boss in no time!

[mod]

Whats your ideal budget?

at the moment less than 500 lol which is what both the 35mm and 50mm is around

[OLSKOOL1800]

^^^^
My advice, keep saving until you can afford a decent lens otherwise anything else you buy will be money wasted and basically a throw away item.
Lenses are eveything!
Possibly look at third party lenses like Sigma & Tamron and then read reviews on them by googling ;-)

[mitchy]

cannot agree more with corbz and jordan.

i have 1 or 2 lenses which i just don't use any more, simply because since i bought L glass, i cant bare using the ones that just aren't as sharp!

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

What they said.

Save you pennies and atleast consider the Sigma 24-70 f/2.8

http://www.digitalrev.com/en/sigma-24-70-f28-ex-dg-hsm-lens-for-dslr-camera.html?match_type=1

[HANS YOLO]

Guys, is the quality differences between a Sigma lens and Canon that huge/noticeable?

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

For pixel peeping, Yes.

But for your general uploads. No... Unsharp mask should fix anything thats a little soft.

[manna_85]

Also if in doubt about purchasing high end glass, these lenses are a bit like an investment and will not depreciate in price to much. Bodys are slightly different.

[mr_rotary]

One point that was forgotten: Anyone purchasing a DSLR is instantly a professional photographer (note the sarcasm!).

Possibly look at third party lenses like Sigma & Tamron and then read reviews on them by googling ;-)*shudder* Can of worms here! Definitely read reviews before purchasing to make sure they are exactly suited to what you are after for your particular style. On saying that though the odd happy snapper will be more than happy with these lenses.

A great website for reviews of Canon gear that I use is: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/

And of course: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/index.php

[Missile]

EOS 500D vs EOS 1100D for a first time DSLR user?

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

EOS 500D vs EOS 1100D for a first time DSLR user?

Hey Missile,

If it were my money, I would go the 500D. Why?

The 500D has been out on the market a lot longer the the new 1100D meaning you could pick one up at a depreciated price. Also it has a few extra pixles with the option of recording at 1080P over the 1100D 720P.

[Biante12]

What Lens do you guy recommend for low light usage?
PS I have a Nikon D7000


I'm not sure if the D7000 has internal focus engine for the 50mm, 35mm etc as these lenses don't have their own inbuilt focusing mechanisms and therefore use the cameras. You may need to check. Nikon have release some new 50mm (1.4 and 1.8) that now have inbuilt focusing mechanisms which is great for the D50 etc and Nikon bodies that don't have body focusing systems.


"In my opinion", there is one important thing to remember when getting into photography, regardless of Brand or cost, and that's is the person using it.

The reality is, the camera and lens are only tools, an extension of the person using it. Yes a top of the line body and lens will produce a quality image, but a good photographer can get a quality image from a low budget setup too.

Style, a good eye, attention to detail can't be bought, they don't come with the camera gear. Artistic people will have a lot of these attributes, that's is why they are artistic, but usually they are learned and developed over time, by experimenting and trying things.

I've seen and heard of novices going out and spending 5k on top end bodies and then another 6k on different glass. They've never used a DSLR before and within a month or two, the camera gear has found a new home in the cupboard never to see daylight again. It wasn't the cameras fault, it was the person who bought the best and expected to be an expert straight out of the box, when they weren't then "photographies a waste of time".

We are all learners from the day we start shooting, and we will be till the last time we ever use a camera, that's what it's all about.

I know I'd love a new D3X or even the D3S, but it's a lot of money and I'm not up to that stage yet, I've had the D700 for 3 years and I'm still learning from it.

One of my mates who comes and does stuff with us regularly has one of the basic Canons there are. He has some second hand lenses and kit lenses, but still produces some great work.

So my advice regardless of brand, think about what you want to do and where you want to go, buy the body you can afford that will last you through the next few years. Then when you have your new toy, let the passion take over, the style and eye for detail will soon come along for the ride.

We are all amateurs in somebodies eyes but we can all produce pieces of art.

Learn your camera, ALL it's settings and get out of Programme or Auto mode as soon as you can.

Enjoy

[duste]

Duste, the only thing is when she gets right into it... she'll see the light and want to jump ship over to Canon/Nikon after she's already laid out of the cash.

IMO and I stress that. Stay with the two leading brands and spend a little extra and buy something tha'ts currently in the market, not something 5-6 years old. Less possible heartache and little to no loss for the future.

Try looking around for a 500D with a kit lens or the Nikon equivalent. Is still current as far as camera's go and matched with some decent glass she'll be shooting like a boss in no time!

We ended up finding a Nikon D3000 twin lens kit (w/ bag, SD card, etc) less than a year old for ~$450, should get her going in the right direction.

Thanks for the advice. :)

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

nice work mate, im sure she will enjoy!

[morgazmatron]

I'm not sure if the D7000 has internal focus engine for the 50mm, 35mm etc as these lenses don't have their own inbuilt focusing mechanisms and therefore use the cameras.

The D7000 does actually have a focus engine so you can virtually use any AF lens from Nikon. Its an amazing camera for the price piont its at.

[mod]

The D7000 I got off ebay for 1k delivered with "gifts" and a starting kit lens 18-55mm for $150 off another website
Store prices were around 1.5k+ which is bit high imo for a beginner

This is the 35mm Im thinking of getting - also saving for the nikkor 24-70mm
http://www.camerasdirect.com.au/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product2s_10002_Nikon-AF-S-DX-NIKKOR-35mm-f1.8G-Lens_10001_10678_-1____

[Splat_man]

I was thinking of picking up a micro four thirds camera. What one do you guys recommend?

[morgazmatron]

This is the 35mm Im thinking of getting - also saving for the nikkor 24-70mm
http://www.camerasdirect.com.au/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product2s_10002_Nikon-AF-S-DX-NIKKOR-35mm-f1.8G-Lens_10001_10678_-1____

Get it! I use mine all the time. I was a bit hesitant about the 35mm but I use it way more than i thought i was going to.

If your wanting to buy anything from oz

http://d-d-photographics.com.au/products/AF%252dS-DX-NIKKOR-35mm-f%7B47%7D1.8G-Autofocus-Lens.html

This place is the best and normally always the cheapest. Based in sydney so you can call and chat to them before purchasing if you wanted to.

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

I was thinking of picking up a micro four thirds camera. What one do you guys recommend?

The new DMC-G3 look the goods. I would love to see its ISO quality though.

This would be a good buy if you were looking at doing some travelling or hated the thought of lugging around a big camera. You can pick these up a pretty good price as well. Lenses aren't badly priced either.

For those playing at home. Micro four thirds is in relation to the Sensor size.

For example:
Aspect ratios
4:3 - Micro
3:2 - Full Frame/35mm

[[FFOUR]]

Anyone played with the Canon 200mm f/2.8L or 135mm f/2L? I got Corbin's thoughts on the 135 on Facebook (thanks mate), interested to hear of any other first hand experience (or alternative suggestions to these two primes).

[manna_85]

can't comment on the 200mm 2.8 but just recently purchased a 300mm 2.8 on impulse. Very happy with it for many reasons. mainly the obvious sharpness you get from a prime and also it doesnt weigh to much meaning its easy enough for me to travel with. Also i was surprised at the very little IQ loss when using it with a 2x extender. I usually hire high end lenses before buying so you can test it out for yourself.

[Missile]

Another question - Are there any throwbacks in getting an overseas model camera (e.g. Canon Kiss/Rebel) over the Aussie model? In the price range that I am looking you can build a brand new kit (body+lenses) over the internet for a similar price to second hand.

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

Another question - Are there any throwbacks in getting an overseas model camera (e.g. Canon Kiss/Rebel) over the Aussie model? In the price range that I am looking you can build a brand new kit (body+lenses) over the internet for a similar price to second hand.

Yes.

- International Warranty. This means you have to send it back to canon in that Country. The turn around time is doubled.

That's the real only downfall with Grey imports. Personally know of quite a few people that have bought grey import bodies and had zero problems.

[mod]

My new 35mm F/1.8G lens :) Already better than my 18-55mm.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/246856_218884281468138_100000397046067_732323_8223 943_n.jpg

[Pete]

This thread is awesome. So much info.

Today I ordered my first dslr, I ended up going a Canon 1100D from a local store down here.

It comes with a EF-S 18-55mm f3.5/5.6 III lens as well, but what i am wanting to know, I want to take some pics out at the Downhill Mtb scene, which is in the pine forests, so the light is pretty washed out/dull sort of thing.

Is there a lens you'd recommend, or a flash that may be needed ? I am extra new at this.

Thanks
Pete.

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

Hey Pete,

Firstly congrats on the purchase, im sure you'll love it.

It all depends on what sort of shots you want. do you want to see movement or would you like to completely freeze the action?

Before going down, get real familiar with your camera. Best advice i could give is read the manual. There is a great amount of information in there but in saying that its all worded in a way and explained to the point where its not confusing.

If it were me going down to take the shots i would want maximum movement whilst keeping the rider and their bike in focus commonly known as panning. How would i set-up the camera?

Firstly I would change my focus settings to AI FOCUS. This will enable me to 'pan' the rider whilst constantly keeping focus. Next I would change my burst mode to continuous so you can hold the shutter down and nail of half a dozen frames as they come past.

Now, how do you get that blurred motion shot? You have to drag the shutter speed. On a consistent day with good light i would take it into complete manual and use something like ISO 100, f/11 - 16, 1/30 - 1/80. the ISO and Aperture would be completely dependant on what light is available and what lens Im using. But i would recommend letting the camera do the work for you whilst you get the feel of it. so throw in it in Tv - shutter priority. This will let you control the shutter and through metering select the best aperture for you. Toggle between the shutter speeds I listed above starting from lowest to highest and get the desired motion.

If you're finding the shots are a little underexposed don't be scared to bump the ISO up a little bit.

I would stay away from flash work until you feel comfortable with what you're working with already. Then with permission from the riders introduce flash.

Hope that helps and i've covered everything for you.

[[FFOUR]]

Firstly I would change my focus settings to AI FOCUS. This will enable me to 'pan' the rider whilst constantly keeping focus.

Any reason you use AI Focus? I prefer AI Servo when doing panning shots.

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

;861618']Any reason you use AI Focus? I prefer AI Servo when doing panning shots.

apologies mate, I meant to write AI SERVO... but had focusing on the mind.

[[FFOUR]]

apologies mate, I meant to write AI SERVO... but had focusing on the mind.

Haha phew, thought I might have to rethink how I did things! All good. :)

[Pete]

Excellent, Thankyou so much.

This is bookmarked now, so will be keeping this quite easily accessible.

Thanks
Pete.

[mod]

Hey Pete,

Firstly congrats on the purchase, im sure you'll love it.

It all depends on what sort of shots you want. do you want to see movement or would you like to completely freeze the action?

Before going down, get real familiar with your camera. Best advice i could give is read the manual. There is a great amount of information in there but in saying that its all worded in a way and explained to the point where its not confusing.

If it were me going down to take the shots i would want maximum movement whilst keeping the rider and their bike in focus commonly known as panning. How would i set-up the camera?

Firstly I would change my focus settings to AI FOCUS. This will enable me to 'pan' the rider whilst constantly keeping focus. Next I would change my burst mode to continuous so you can hold the shutter down and nail of half a dozen frames as they come past.

Now, how do you get that blurred motion shot? You have to drag the shutter speed. On a consistent day with good light i would take it into complete manual and use something like ISO 100, f/11 - 16, 1/30 - 1/80. the ISO and Aperture would be completely dependant on what light is available and what lens Im using. But i would recommend letting the camera do the work for you whilst you get the feel of it. so throw in it in Tv - shutter priority. This will let you control the shutter and through metering select the best aperture for you. Toggle between the shutter speeds I listed above starting from lowest to highest and get the desired motion.

If you're finding the shots are a little underexposed don't be scared to bump the ISO up a little bit.

I would stay away from flash work until you feel comfortable with what you're working with already. Then with permission from the riders introduce flash.

Hope that helps and i've covered everything for you.

Really good info there :)

And AI servo is AF-C in Nikon terms Im pretty sure.

Also recommend gettin a good quality SD card like the SanDisk Extreme III clas 10 or 8 to get the most out of continues shooting.

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

Excellent, Thankyou so much.

This is bookmarked now, so will be keeping this quite easily accessible.

Thanks
Pete.

You're Welcome. Let us know how you go :)


Really good info there :)

And AI servo is AF-C in Nikon terms Im pretty sure.

Also recommend gettin a good quality SD card like the SanDisk Extreme III clas 10 or 8 to get the most out of continues shooting.

Good note to make, I prefer getting high quality cards and buy more cards over big GB cards. IE: 4 X 8gb over 2X 16gb or 1 X 32gb. that way if anything where to happen, corrupt images, lose of card (which happens) is still have shots and more cards available.

Also another trick for panning is shooting in JPEG your burst amount is almost doubled over shooting in RAW.

[mitchy]

could not agree more on both those points.

i had 2 quality SD cards die on me. now i have 6x 8GB CF cards.

high speed cards are a definate help for continuous shooting too.
you'd be surprised how quickly you can fill up the camera's buffer then be stuck waiting for the card to transfer it all, and miss that perfect shot.

[mattmy99]

Hi all,
I shoot with a Nikon D700, Tamron 28-300, Sigma 12-24 and Nikon AF 50mm f/1.8G.
I'm looking at upgrading my speedlight at the moment, as I'm starting to understand/get to the limitations of my Nissin Di622 in relation to High speed sync. The Di622 is a fairly low end flash, and doesn't have Auto FP/HSS capabilities.
Before I do, come at me (bro) what you know on:
1) HSS
2) max sync/shutter speed
3) SB speedlights for nikon (700,800 or 900)
4) Anything else useful when it comes to on and off camera flash work.

Cheers

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

In regards to off camera flash. How are you triggering the flashes and what with?

Also, what do you mean by limitations? explain to me what you're trying to achieve?

[mattmy99]

I only have the one flash. The Nissin Di622. When using it off the camera I just use the wireless optical mode activating the off camera flash with a pre flash burst from the master flash (in my case, the pop up flash).

Why do I want/need HSS/Auto FP?
Basically because I want to be able to use my speedlight when I'm shooting in situation that need faster than a 1/250th shutter.

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

Whats your budget?

Its possible, but with a price.

[mattmy99]

Okay, so I've been doing a little more research. Basically, for high speed flash sync (canon HSS, Nikon Auto FP) all I need is either the Speedlite SB700, 800 or 900.
But at the same time, I've also learnt a lot more about front and rear curtain sync, and the TTL-BL (back lit) settings on my camera, as well as the effects of iso and aperture on flash power.
One of the things I love about photography is that you literally can/will learn something new every time you pick up your camera.
Do I need a new $800 flash? Not necessarily.
Do I need to experiment more with what I've got? Yep.

Secondly, I've been researching more about remote flash triggers (that can also be used as shutter remotes), and I've decided on this one.
http://www.phottixstore.com/store/phottix-strato-ii-multi-5-in-1-wireless-flash-trigger.html

I've done a heap of reading and comparing price, build quality and fuctionality, and it appears that for the money, the strato II multi is ideal.
A few reviews here.
http://journal.phottix.com/photo-accessory-news/phottix-strato-ii-multi-reviews/
http://martybugs.net/blog/blog.cgi/gear/Phottix-Strato-II-Multi-Trigger.html

I also considered the Flashwave III (http://www.photocontinental.com.au/specials14) along with the pocket wizard and many others. In the end the phottix stratto won.

Thanks for your help Corbin :)

[Pete]

Sorry for the but in here, but finally sorted it all out, and got a free lense upgrade.

http://i53.tinypic.com/2d7efcj.jpg

So it's a Canon 1100D, lens is a EFS 18-55mm IS. Pretty happy, i've just been walking round the house trying to get used it, so many buttons to play with.

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

Nice work mate. As silly as it sounds, give the manual a read. Great information in that little booklet.

[mod]

download the PDF and read it at work, wasted 1/2 day on it lol
it does have some really good info on the camera that you may not know about, mine was well over 350 pages.

[Pete]

Awesome, I'll get onto that and have a read over the weekend while I have a play around.

Pete.

[hako]

Chasing some advice...

Have owned a Nikon D40X for ~4 years with 18-105 & 70-300mm VR lenses.

Looking to probably get rid of the 70-300mm as it was bought for a trip to Africa and not used since, been thinking of a new body but I really only use it for travel photography so it probably isn't worth upgrading.

Any recommendations on a lens for travel/architecture/landscape style photography?
Also looking for a fisheye for random shots?
Might also swap the 18-105 for a 18-200 VR.
Or is a body upgrade in order? (Canon 5D Mk2 out of my budget haha)

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

hako,

Glass, glass, glass!

What you've already got is perfect for travelling. But if you're just looking for an excuse to splash some cash... I would upgrade to the 18-200 VR. Complete versatility and its not too heavy.

[Roobiks]

That or if you want to save some kesh, the Sigma 18-200 is a good alternative.

[hako]

^thanks guys, I think an 18-200 is on the list for the next trip...

[duste]

Lowepro bags - who is cheapest? Online or retail shop.

Found a guy in Brisbane on eBay with the bag I want (Pro Runner 350 AW) for ~$175. Anyone know where I could get it cheaper? All other places I saw had it for ~$210 + postage.

My current Lowepro bag was from Camera House in Cannington, though I don't think they're very cheap.

EDIT: ^^ They want $249 for the Pro Runner...http://www.camerahouse.com.au/products/Bags/Lowepro-Pro-Runner-350AW-Black-Gadget-bag.aspx

[HANS YOLO]

i have a GoPro and recently was given the head mount for it..i tried wearing it through a work party gig the other night but it was way too dark for the camera.

im looking now for a lighting solution to enable filming in low light conditions. something that could be attached to the head mount or around the camera itself in a light ring type config would be awesome.

any suggestions on where to start looking for something like this?

[mr_rotary]

My current Lowepro bag was from Camera House in Cannington, though I don't think they're very cheap.

EDIT: ^^ They want $249 for the Pro Runner...http://www.camerahouse.com.au/products/Bags/Lowepro-Pro-Runner-350AW-Black-Gadget-bag.aspxI was just in there Saturday looking at bags and no, they are NOT cheap. I cannot fathom paying double the price than on-line. As for E-Bay sellers, there are many on there but they do not all sell the same stock so just narrow it down to your best sellers closest to 100% and the most sales.

[Crispymk2]

Lowepro bags - who is cheapest? Online or retail shop.

Found a guy in Brisbane on eBay with the bag I want (Pro Runner 350 AW) for ~$175. Anyone know where I could get it cheaper? All other places I saw had it for ~$210 + postage.

My current Lowepro bag was from Camera House in Cannington, though I don't think they're very cheap.

EDIT: ^^ They want $249 for the Pro Runner...http://www.camerahouse.com.au/products/Bags/Lowepro-Pro-Runner-350AW-Black-Gadget-bag.aspx


I can do it for $215 and I'm based in Lord Street, Perth.

We would have to order it in though

[duste]

I can do it for $215 and I'm based in Lord Street, Perth.

We would have to order it in though

What about the CompuTrekker AW? Opinions and price.

It looks to be ever so slightly smaller, but with very similar features - it will still fit my laptop and either my camera gear or Uni gear, whichever I need at the time. I'm going to call around over the next day or so and see who, locally, has them both in stock and I'll go and do a compare-o.

Thanks.

[Crispymk2]

What about the CompuTrekker AW? Opinions and price.

It looks to be ever so slightly smaller, but with very similar features - it will still fit my laptop and either my camera gear or Uni gear, whichever I need at the time. I'm going to call around over the next day or so and see who, locally, has them both in stock and I'll go and do a compare-o.

Thanks.

CompuTrekker is discontinued so you might be able to grab one cheap online. Nice bag, I have the MiniTrekker which is the same bag minus the laptop section and it stood up to 4 years of daily abuse.

Cleaned it on the weekend and looks brand new again.

Other options in LowePro are the FastPack which has half photo gear and half free space or the ProRunner series.

We have the Fast Pack 350 in stock and we can do it for $185
http://products.lowepro.com/product/Fastpack-350,2086,14.htm

If there is a specific one you want a price on just let me know.

[duste]

I was originally looking at the Fastpack but the disadvantage is the half-half design itself. With the Pro Runner 350 AW and CompuTrekker AW the 'full design' allows me to remove all the dividers, and put folders/binders, books, other documents, etc (basically anything I need for Uni) in there whereas the half-half design simply doesn't provide me with sufficient room once the dividers are removed.

I'm assuming the CompuTrekker Plus AW would also have been discontinued?

The same eBay seller I mentioned earlier also has both the CompuTrekker AW and CompuTrekker Plus AW - the latter having a slightly larger notebook compartment (1.9" vs. 1.5") which would suit my fat-ass Inspiron 1520 much better in the height department (which varies from 1.47-1.65”, front-back). Even though I've already asked the question of whether they are covered by Lowepro manufacturer's warranty or not, and received a firm 'yes', I decided to check their feedback...and it seems they're all Chinese knock-offs. Whyyyyyy must you liiiieeeeee?!

Sigh, so now I'm back to the Pro Runner 350 AW by the looks of things (unless the CompuTrekker Plus AW isn't discontinued). How long would it take to order in, and am I correct in guessing you work for 'Team Digital'? Found your link on Maxwell Int'l's website.

Thanks.

[_S9_]

Anyone use 500px.com ?

http://500px.com/popular -- some stunning flickr-destroying shots on there!

[SEXUAL TYRANNOSAURUS]

Made an account last week as a few friends have it. Some fantastic work.

[Crispymk2]

I was originally looking at the Fastpack but the disadvantage is the half-half design itself. With the Pro Runner 350 AW and CompuTrekker AW the 'full design' allows me to remove all the dividers, and put folders/binders, books, other documents, etc (basically anything I need for Uni) in there whereas the half-half design simply doesn't provide me with sufficient room once the dividers are removed.

I'm assuming the CompuTrekker Plus AW would also have been discontinued?

The same eBay seller I mentioned earlier also has both the CompuTrekker AW and CompuTrekker Plus AW - the latter having a slightly larger notebook compartment (1.9" vs. 1.5") which would suit my fat-ass Inspiron 1520 much better in the height department (which varies from 1.47-1.65”, front-back). Even though I've already asked the question of whether they are covered by Lowepro manufacturer's warranty or not, and received a firm 'yes', I decided to check their feedback...and it seems they're all Chinese knock-offs. Whyyyyyy must you liiiieeeeee?!

Sigh, so now I'm back to the Pro Runner 350 AW by the looks of things (unless the CompuTrekker Plus AW isn't discontinued). How long would it take to order in, and am I correct in guessing you work for 'Team Digital'? Found your link on Maxwell Int'l's website.

Thanks.

Yep, I work at Team Digital at 268 Lord Street, Perth (more like East Perth though).

The Pro Runner 350 AW is in stock with Maxwells so we could have one to us within 3-5 working days.

Best price I can do on that one is $217.80 - we would normally have it for $249 but I can do a bit of an "Antilag special discount", just ask for Jared.

All the CompuTrekkers have disappeared from the Maxwells price lists so unless someone has old stock floating around I cant access them. They do have a COMPUDAY PHOTO 250 BLACK which is a bit of an odd-ball bag but may suit. Only problem for you would be limited camera storage options I think

[mod]

Anyone use 500px.com ?

http://500px.com/popular -- some stunning flickr-destroying shots on there!

there is some absolute killer shots on there def better than Flickr imo

[duste]

Yep, I work at Team Digital at 268 Lord Street, Perth (more like East Perth though).

The Pro Runner 350 AW is in stock with Maxwells so we could have one to us within 3-5 working days.

Best price I can do on that one is $217.80 - we would normally have it for $249 but I can do a bit of an "Antilag special discount", just ask for Jared.

All the CompuTrekkers have disappeared from the Maxwells price lists so unless someone has old stock floating around I cant access them. They do have a COMPUDAY PHOTO 250 BLACK which is a bit of an odd-ball bag but may suit. Only problem for you would be limited camera storage options I think

Definitely an odd-ball haha, I'll come in some time this week to place a deposit on the Pro Runner to get the ball rolling on the order.

Thanks a bunch!

[Crispymk2]

Definitely an odd-ball haha, I'll come in some time this week to place a deposit on the Pro Runner to get the ball rolling on the order.

Thanks a bunch!

Too easy mate. Happy to help.

[RELEASE]

Big thanks to Jared (Crispymk2) who works at Team Digital.
Saw him yesterday after some phone conversations and bought a bunch of gear. His prices for most of the gear was less than online and for the ones that were a little more the savings made up for it.

[thrtytwo]

Crispy what sort of price could you do on a 7D body only? I've been looking online but still unsure if grey import is worth it or not.

PM me if you don't want to post price :D

[mod]

grey import is way to go imo
I bought my D7000 for $1.1k body only ($1.6K+ here) from T-dimension and the freight cost for warranty is already paid for and come together with your camera
delivered in 2.5days from china via fedex.

[duste]

I was always told to buy the body locally but lenses n shit go for grey imports? Body's are only covered by local warranty (ie. the country in which it was sold in) whereas lenses/etc have a worldwide warranty?

[Crispymk2]

Big thanks to Jared (Crispymk2) who works at Team Digital.
Saw him yesterday after some phone conversations and bought a bunch of gear. His prices for most of the gear was less than online and for the ones that were a little more the savings made up for it.
No worries mate.


I was always told to buy the body locally but lenses n shit go for grey imports? Body's are only covered by local warranty (ie. the country in which it was sold in) whereas lenses/etc have a worldwide warranty?

Canon has just announced (to dealers at least) that they will be introducing Regional warrantees on all products. Previously, as mentioned above, warranty was international for lenses, speedlites etc but in an effort to protect the local retailers they are "trying" to reduce prices and make local more attractive vs grey imports (tough to do with the $ where it is).


Crispy what sort of price could you do on a 7D body only? I've been looking online but still unsure if grey import is worth it or not.

PM me if you don't want to post price :D
7D body only is $2,175 is the best I can do, our buy price inc gst is $2111.21

[duste]

Canon has just announced (to dealers at least) that they will be introducing Regional warrantees on all products. Previously, as mentioned above, warranty was international for lenses, speedlites etc but in an effort to protect the local retailers they are "trying" to reduce prices and make local more attractive vs grey imports (tough to do with the $ where it is).


Noooo, was planning on buying a 70-200mm next year. :(

[cplagz]

What do you all use for workflow? Lightroom? Photoshop? Aperture?

[thrtytwo]

7D body only is $2,175 is the best I can do, our buy price inc gst is $2111.21

Cheers, fair bit higher than grey import, need to think about it :S. Have you heard anything of the rumours suggesting 5Dmkiii or 7Dmkii dropping soon?

[Crispymk2]

Cheers, fair bit higher than grey import, need to think about it :S. Have you heard anything of the rumours suggesting 5Dmkiii or 7Dmkii dropping soon?

Only for the last two years... If I were a gambling man I'd predict an announcement in the next month or two. Canon don't tell us shit, half of the internet will know before we do.

Just keep in mind that even if Canon announced the 5DmkIII etc this arvo we probably wouldn't see any deliverable stock for three months.


For people keen on prices, because we are classed as a "Pro Stockist" we will struggle to compete with JB HiFi etc prices on anything below a Canon 5DMKII or Nikon D300s. They way they have structured the market is that they get to sell bulk low-end/pro-sumer stuff and we get exclusive access to the high-end gear. We also generally aim for a 5-6% margin and I can swing it down to 3% on most cameras/lenses.

Bags, filters, products that actually have some form of margin in them to begin with I can swing a decent discount for Antilag members and happy to chase prices on anything you are after. We also do hire gear on weekends for a single day rate if you want to try before you buy or want to play with something high-end.

Also, please don't ask "can you match this online price?" because, no, we can't as it is not technically the same product as ours comes with local warranty and our full support, ie. if your camera dies for any reason we will loan you our floor stock until yours comes back free of charge etc.

[cplagz]

Do you guys to cleaning etc?

[Crispymk2]

Do you guys to cleaning etc?

Yes, we do sensor cleans, $77 inc gst - Antilag special $70inc

[manna_85]

Purchased my 300mm off u guys. Highly recommended. Friendly staff.

[[Jacek]]

Got a cool story to share:

I have about a thousand photos that I want to print. To get the best quality possible and so that I wouldn't be disappointed I thought I'd do a test first between some printing places around Perth by getting a sample of 7 photos printed at each place (Bright, Dark, Low Detail, High Detail, People, Landscapes etc). Went to:

- KMart Morley (HP Equipment)
- Camera House Morley (Fujifilm Equipment)
- Harvey Norman Osborne Park. (Also Fujifilm, but newer than the Camera House equipment above)

Results:
- KMart: Avoid like the plague - Photos came out grainy and dark, absolutely no detail. Comparing these to the other two was like comparing chocolate and shit. Positive was that it only took about 5 mins to have them printed here.
- Camera House: I was happy with the results, nice detail and the colours came out as I expected. Also only took 20mins or so. Worth the money.
- Harvey Norman was my pick of the bunch, a bit brighter than the Camera House ones but probably the same detail, they just pop a little bit better than the Camera House ones. 2 hours for 7 photos though, bit of a joke.

Now I realise that a lot of this has to do with the way that my monitor and their equipment is set up, but I guess all I'm saying is that the Harvey Norman prints worked best with my configuration, so I'll be getting the rest of my 1000 photos printed there. Will report back on results. I was interested to know whether there would be a difference between them at all, and there definately was so I'm glad I did the test.

I considered going somewhere more professional like Fitzgerald etc, but since I am happy with the results above I'll do it at HN's I think, unless someone has some better advice?

[cplagz]

What about snapfish? .etc

I've used Churchill Labs in Leedy and they did fantastic work - but you will pay for it.... which led me to buy my Pro9000 and Spyder2 :D

[[Jacek]]

Yeah i'd be interested to get a quote from one of the pro places, but im just getting holiday snaps printed in 4x6 so that might be overkill i reckon