My single turbo plan! Opinions, criticism and advice.

[teknoboi]

Hey guys, looks like ill be selling the MR2 soon, and using the funds to buy a bike and boat(hopefully).

Decided 2JZ is king and its a WAY more practical car... ie. easy to get in and out of, no cop attention and it can tow my future boat

So from now till end of next year, I'll be slowly collecting parts for a single conversion. Obviously on my Uni bum income, it will be a slow/best bang for your buck conversion. I want it to look as Stock looking as possible(lowest mount turbo with heat shielding covering the entire setup with stock air box.


Currently i have the following plan:

-T04Z with an 0.84 rear housing(divided or non divided?)
-Cast manifold with waste-gate port, ported from 38mm to something higher? I'm still unsure how the turbo will sit. Ideally, I'de like it to be mounted as low as possible, but there arent any low mount manifolds out there?
-Custom dump with waste-gate plumbed into there. With wideband bung.
-Custom intake pipe to Stock box to turbo inlet.
-Custom heat shield to cover the turbo/dumps and compressor housing.
-Custom water/oil lines and fittings.
-Custom flange for BOV plumbed back, hidden somewhere.
-Custom turbo outlet piping to stock intercooler piping.
-Swapping my 76mm core for my mates 100mm core. 600*300*100.
Will probably cut up a little of the intrusion bar to maximise surface area of the intercooler but reinforce the bar with more welding. Relocation of numberplate to the side somewhere.
-Stock oil catch can from an MR2 or something.
-550cc USDM injectors with resistor pack, possibly some 600-650cc is on the cards.
-Sard FPR
-Additional MASSIVE Transmission cooler(have one already)
-SAFC II or Emanage piggyback.
-Currently have a Walbro GSS342, but I think I may upgrade to a bosch 044 with modified fittings.

Most of the custom work will be done by myself, or with the help of mates or local fabricators? Maybe even some of you blokes!

Will be learning tuning myself, as I'm learning about tuning now at uni. So wideband will be have be be purchased, unless someone is willing to rent one out to me!

I currently have a BLITZ ECU. Runs really well when the car was running at the time and pulled a bit harder compared to the previous BLITZ i had. I have heard that the ECU's is dynamic enough to adapt up to 650cc?
Question is, should I keep the BLITZ with SAFC II/E-manage or should I just use the Stock ECU?

To be honest, I really want to break the 500rwhp barrier with the least amount of lag but just for wank factor on a dyno sheet. Will probably run on lower boost around the 450rwhp mark daily. Next is the Stally, 4000rpm seems like the stall of choice for most on single conversions? I have a 1.5 MV shift kit, and from what I've heard, heat is the thing that kills transmission so with 2 coolers and the stock transmission cooler, I hope that will suffice.


PS. I'll most likely be getting a 18-21ft fibreglass boat(heavy but cheap =]), will reinforce my towbar further to the chassis. Will there be enough power down low to haul it? Say 2000-3000rpm? 4pot brakes are on the cards too.


Anyways, the general advice i got so far from the jzs147 forums is:
AEM FIC
Bosch 044
650CC
Precision P6262 0.58 AR.
STOCK or ~3000rpm Stall.

Now, I've come across the SP Quick Spool Valve, and now contemplating going slightly larger to the billet 6265 with a slightly larger AR. The SPA cast manifold is ideally what I want cause it sits low, but very costly compared to the cheaper godspeed/ebay cast manifolds.

Does anyone have any experience with this?

So now, I'de like to hear your opinions, constructive criticism and advice on my current plans.


Cheers fellas!

[cplagz]

Sounds like a shit idea for towing a boat. Find out what the boat+trailer weigh and then compare to cars capable unbraked towing capacity.

You do realise launching a boat will completely fuck anything metal right? Salt water = corrosion. Plus if you had plans on lowering the car, you can say goodbye to that.

[duste]

^^

Why not Toyota Landcruiser + 2JZ, Dubai-spec? Won't get much attention from cops and you'll still be able to have your 2JZ and tow your future boat. Would require more money than JZA80/JZS147 but it'd do what you want it to do?

[teknoboi]

Sounds like a shit idea for towing a boat. Find out what the boat+trailer weigh and then compare to cars capable unbraked towing capacity.

You do realise launching a boat will completely fuck anything metal right? Salt water = corrosion. Plus if you had plans on lowering the car, you can say goodbye to that.

The thing is, no info is given about the towing capacity for the aristo, however in japland it came as an option. Have read some info that the chassis rails dont extend far enough so some bracing/strengthening of the chassis rails to the tow mount points will need to be done.

Already have a tow bar, and towed a 14ft dinghy a few times. Yes, i know about corrosion.... I do chemical engineering, and thats what corrosion prevention comes into play.

Car is at a perfect height right now doesnt scrape on any kerbs and can mount any of those block looking kerbs. If anything i would probably raise the rear 20-30mm or so. Have adjustable coilovers.

[Alt_F4]

Don't bother with the TO4Z, the GTX35 (new gen. GT35) will be much more responsive and still outflow the TO4Z, alternatively look at the new Borg Warner stuff which looks very good.

Quick Spool Valve are mainly suited to twin scroll turbos on non-twin scroll manifolds, but you'd get better performance from getting the right manifold in the first place.

[teknoboi]

Don't bother with the TO4Z, the GTX35 (new gen. GT35) will be much more responsive and still outflow the TO4Z, alternatively look at the new Borg Warner stuff which looks very good.

Quick Spool Valve are mainly suited to twin scroll turbos on non-twin scroll manifolds, but you'd get better performance from getting the right manifold in the first place.

Yeh, i wanted to make the set up as stock looking as possible, hence why I didnt opt for a tubular high mount manifold. The lower the turbo sits the better, then i can heat shield it similar to the xr6t set up.

[cplagz]

Can you buy tow bars off the shelf to fit an Aristo? If so, they should say or a dealer will be able to tell you how much weight it can handle.

Corrosion protection doesn't mean shit when you got 6inches of water up your rear wheel and it's going inside your muffler :)

One thing you need to keep in mind is it's very easy to get a boat down a ramp and into the water.....pulling it back out can be another story, especially on a low tide when the cement is exposed and its covered in slime.

[mxracer]

just buy a cheap 4wd for tow duties

[teknoboi]

im not sure why you would have to reverse that far down the ramp to get your rear muffler in 6" of water? My car isn't low at all. I see plenty of lowered utes/falcadores getting out from ramps. But i do realise that some ramps are just rediculously maintained so they are slippery.

Anyways, my point is. If theres a problem, there is ALWAYS a way to solve it. That's what we're taught at uni anyways lol.

[cplagz]

im not sure why you would have to reverse that far down the ramp to get your rear muffler in 6" of water? My car isn't low at all. I see plenty of lowered utes/falcadores getting out from ramps. But i do realise that some ramps are just rediculously maintained so they are slippery.

Anyways, my point is. If theres a problem, there is ALWAYS a way to solve it. That's what we're taught at uni anyways lol.

Ok, here's my take. I'm talking directly from personal experience. I've had trailer boats my whole life and currently have a 24ft centre console that weighs 3.5ton w/trailer and we have had the rear muffler rust out on our tow car (Range Rover) twice. I have also seen cars that may well be capable, but shouldn't be towing a boat and the consequences of when something goes wrong. The first two instances are a blowout and the trailer jack knifed because it lifted the rear of the car (incorrect nose weighting and spring setup) and a car 3/4 submerged because the boat dragged it back in the water.

All I'm saying is I'd hate to see a nice car that you clearly want to spend some money on wrecked because of something that could have easily been avoided.

Another option to solve the boat issue... put it in the racks at freo and let the forklift put it in and out for you.

[teknoboi]

Yes very true, I agree with everything you say. I'de definitely hate something like that happen. I guess i shall be careful with towing such a large boat first, but i guess for light duties such as a aluminium 14ft it should be fine.

That aside, how about the performance aspects for my current plan? Any other suggestions?

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=582877&highlight=quick+spool
have a look at this set up? lowish mount, enough to put a heat shield over the entire set up. Spool is crazy?

[cplagz]

Turbo wise it sounds fine. I wouldn't bother with the T04Z as said though. New GTX35 or the SC6262 would be fine, but not in a 58 rear, 2JZ would be better suited to a .84 IMO. Fuel system 650cc and 040 should be ok. As for the rest of it, it sounds good to me but I don't have a 2jz either.... so take that as what you may. ECU - as everyone says, pick your tuner then pick your ECU.

[Passage GT]

just buy a cheap 4wd for tow duties

listen to the man, aristo with a decent sized turbo will be a fucking shit tow car, the auto will be stressed enough with the power output let alone towing a boat too
mod the aristo as a quick cruiser etc and go spend a couple grand on a cheap 4x4 as tow vehicle
60 series mq patrol, old pajero's and jackaroo's etc would all fit the bill and are cheap as anything

[Fujiwara13]

You don't drive the black mr2 that gets parked at uwa eng do you?

If so, what happened to your wheels? Puzzles me all the time.

[teknoboi]

You don't drive the black mr2 that gets parked at uwa eng do you?

If so, what happened to your wheels? Puzzles me all the time.

neg mate, have a yellow one in curtin eng ;)

[Brockas]

Do NOT go for a T04Z.

I can't stress this enough. It is way too large for your application.


GTX35 would be the go at most. The old GT35's will do over 500hp.

[teknoboi]

Was looking at the GTX35, anyone know the price?

So far leaning on the Precision 6262, have read it's more responsive than the gt35r, but supposedly will do around 500rwhp on 18psi. Relatively cheap and a fair few yanks use them in their supras.

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http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2689/4265066908_c989151718_b.jpg

[mxracer]

dont go by yank dyno's they read pretty high compared to ours ..
video , looks to be a responsive setup thou , its auto i think .. but must have a decent stall to respond like that.

[teknoboi]

yeah, all dynos are diff even here in perth!

1997 Toyota Supra:

Precision 6262 .58 AR Turbo
4" Downpipe
SPA Cast Manifold
Bosch 044 Fuel Pump
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Auto with 3200 Stall
VPC/AFC

Tuned at 18 psi on 93 octane.

[mxracer]

must have alot of fuel pressure to make 500 rwhp with 440cc injectors !!

[teknoboi]

its usdm so 550cc

[Faz]

those gtx35 will be around $150 - $300 more then their standard equivalent... so i've heard