Warping rotors

[thommo]

I'm just coming upto the 3rd time I need to get rotors done as they are warped and creating alot of wheel shudder under braking. Is there a better pad/rotor combo I should be using minimize this in the future. The vehicle is a bf ford ute.

Cheers

[xr06t]

whats your current disc pad combo?

[thommo]

Had rda slotted with ebc yellow pads now same rotor and bendix pads

[Turbo2.6L]

RDA are rubbish.
Use DBA 4000 series rotors with Ferodo DS2500 pads.

[XF Falcon]

Thats the combo I had Dean, (DBA 4000 slotted) and they worked well except at powercruise a few years back after real hard braking at the end of the straight after about 3 laps they started to shudder. Once they cooled down they were fine, but heavy braking at high speed brought back the shudder.
They did well though for their price! Brake dust was higher than standard due to the pads and the slots. For every day driving and the occasional hard braking they were great though

[Turbo2.6L]

For track work, you need Brembos or AP's. No aftermarket pad/rotor combo available for the falcons standard brakes are going to handle track spec abuse without shudder & fade due to brakes size vs car weight.

[esky]

RDA are rubbish.
Use DBA 4000 series rotors with Ferodo DS2500 pads.

DBA's ain't any better.

[Turbo2.6L]

4000's shit on RDA chinese specials.

[esky]

I'd say they're as bad as each other.

[s1mon]

I'd say they're as bad as each other.

Sorry man, but words can not express how wrong you are.

I sold RDA's back when they still had their Cross Drilled version. Almost every set I sold came back, cracked. Since then they stopped selling cross drilled versions. They are the ultimate cheap china crap brand. If memory serves we used to buy their rotors for $32+ (old holdens etc) so you cant tell me they are comparable to DBA's

If you truely believe that RDA and DBA are the same, then you sir shouldnt post anymore in this thread :)

[hevo]

I've seen DBA rotors that have warped as well, i know of people that have been running the rda slotted with no problem.

[DISTRBD]

Sorry man, but words can not express how wrong you are.

I sold RDA's back when they still had their Cross Drilled version. Almost every set I sold came back, cracked. Since then they stopped selling cross drilled versions. They are the ultimate cheap china crap brand. If memory serves we used to buy their rotors for $32+ (old holdens etc) so you cant tell me they are comparable to DBA's

If you truely believe that RDA and DBA are the same, then you sir shouldnt post anymore in this thread :)

Both brands are as bad as each other .


Also its a ford thing for them to shudder , used genuine rotors and pads and still comes back . SHIT CAR

[mys1]

Sorry man, but words can not express how wrong you are.

I sold RDA's back when they still had their Cross Drilled version. Almost every set I sold came back, cracked. Since then they stopped selling cross drilled versions. They are the ultimate cheap china crap brand. If memory serves we used to buy their rotors for $32+ (old holdens etc) so you cant tell me they are comparable to DBA's

If you truely believe that RDA and DBA are the same, then you sir shouldnt post anymore in this thread :)

All the DBA stuff now comes from china too champ,

Go buy somthing with race pedigree behind its name if you truly want it to stop. Project Mu, Brembo, Ap Racing, Willwood etc etc etc....

[mitchy]

Sorry man, but words can not express how wrong you are.

I sold RDA's back when they still had their Cross Drilled version. Almost every set I sold came back, cracked. Since then they stopped selling cross drilled versions. They are the ultimate cheap china crap brand. If memory serves we used to buy their rotors for $32+ (old holdens etc) so you cant tell me they are comparable to DBA's

If you truely believe that RDA and DBA are the same, then you sir shouldnt post anymore in this thread :)

both are crap, RDA are just cheaper.

[DISTRBD]

both are crap, RDA are just cheaper.

Difference between RDA n DBA is $5-10 . Some DBA i can buy cheaper then RDA .

[mitchy]

$5-10 is a lot of money to a 31 owner. :p

can i sell you my rotors? i don't need them.

[180SXTCY]

Ive personally used both RDA's and DBA's on my cars and tbh i dont think one is any better than the other.

I never did any track work on them however, on the street both were ok-ish. I just used Bendix ultimate pads with them and some good brake fluid.

[thommo]

looks like ill just get these machined and thrown back on and get some funds for an upgrade :S

[ruler]

if your bf is na with the standard brakes (not the pbr upgrade) i have a pair of slotted dba rotors brand new still in packaging for 200 dollars. depending on where you are, i may even deliver
standard ford rotors are shit and should be replaced as soon as you get the car imo

[03stiwrx]

did you change the rotors after the EBC Yellows or just the pads?

full race pads on a street designed disc.. doesn't sound like a good match to me.

I have used RDA & DBA rotors with EBC Red fronts and EBC green rears on my STI and never had issues...

how often do you do, say Barbagallo though? I think track days (not skid pan days) will kill most brakes.

[dattoman]

Doesn't matter what he uses
BA/BF are factory fucked
Ford has admitted it


<a target="_blank" title="BA DISC (pdf)" href="http://pdfcast.org/pdf/ba-disc">BA DISC</a>

Download that to get the 3 pages

[thommo]

thats super shit, they even make the turbo ones larger and still same problem.

about to get some new rotors and pads now.

due to using a trailer alot and having tools etc in back is there a specific rotor/pad combo i should go ?

[Miggy]

I run RDA's and they shudder now after I went out to powercruise and as everyone has said Falcons have had a shudder problem for as long as I can remember hopefully they have rectified it with the new models.

Sometimes uneven wear on the pads cause shudder as well and people mistake it for warped rotors.

[Phyber]

I've done a lot of reading and people on AFF and xr6t forums have solved it in different ways. Here's some quotes (or head to the xr6t thread here (http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/3284-brake-shudder-issue/page__st__1350__p__1047836#entry1047836))


Haya all, I haven't read the entire post but I thought I better add my 2 cents. The problem most of people experiencing brake shudder isn't the sole result of the discs alone. Nor will just any machining fix the problem.
The actual problem lies with lateral run-out (Disc Wobble). If a disc is taken off a car and machined off the car with either a bench lathe or similar you should get the two sides parallel to each other but what happens when the disc is put back on the car? Does this actually fix the lateral run-out? What happens if the problem doesn't lie in the disc? What if it's in the hub? All you've done is spent money and not fixed the problem. Even worse, What if you spend lots of money on replacement discs, but not fixed the problem still, you get annoyed for starters.
On most modern cars the min. spec. For lateral run-out is .002" (Nissan is even less) and anything more than this could be felt at the brake pedal as shudder. .002" is not much thicker than a human hair!!! (Human hair is about .0071") and more than that and as the disc is turning it passes through the caliper and bumping one pad, and then the other. As this happens the disc and pads slowly get worn until you get Disc Thickness Variation. This means that the rotor will be two different thicknesses at different points (I.e. 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock).

So how do you fix it?
Use an on car Brake Lathe! The market leader is one called a Pro-cut. They’re made in the US and they are the OEM approved tool for the likes of Ford, GM, Nissan, Daimlar/Chryslar, Subaru and more.
Pro-cut have the added advantage of being self adjusting on the newer models so the operator doesn't have to adjust for LRO (lateral run-out), and it guarantees the end result is less than the required .002"

So if you do have brake shudder, Find a workshop that does have a Procut On car Brake Lathe, Make sure they use it on car, and get your car done by them! Problem solved


I went new hubs when I installed the front discs. Only cost me $66 each.. Well worth it imo as its a sealed bearing unit.

I've absolutely raped my brakes since installing, to the point of boiling the brake fluid twice and having smoke coming off.. Still no shudder. Slight squeel though but I can live with that.


this may answer some questions
Australian Ford Forums - One reason why the BA shudder keeps coming back ! (http://fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11308076)

reason why the BA shudder keeps coming back !

G'day , after an exhaustive day with the Nolethane gurus as well as Geoff Murray from Redranger and Steve Borg from TRW Australia, I now have a much better understanding of my car (BA) the BF/FG and the VE front and rear geometry and the factory suspension shortcomings...

I started a thread how to change out the hydraulic castor bushes here www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11306516

Now one thing I couldn't explain was why they stopped my brake shudder , my best information out of today is the bush when it fails moves around a heck of a lot and over time even though the wheel is mounted to the rotor and then onto the hub it creates wear points on the face of the rotor called "DTV" Disc Thickness Variation .....

Oh well we just give the rotor a skim and no more problems Right ?

Until next time.... I machined my rotors 5 x times before I purchased slotted rotors and the shudder came back !
It became so random and sooo annoying I wouldn't let my girlfriend drive it anywhere.. I changed the front bushes and the shudder dissapeared straight away....




Good luck mate. I have DBA4000 slotteds and QFM HP-X pads and am getting shudder - worth noting though that my rear discs are stock and in need of replacing, I recently read this can also be the cause of brake shudder.

Also as mentioned above uneven pad use can cause it, hard stops to 0 and sitting there holding the brake down can transfer pad resin to the disc, or maybe warp it due to the spot heating.


Shit brakes :/


PS as for DBA vvs RDA, I've heard that the DBA 4000 slotteds/DBA5000 series (gold hat?) are the quality ones. If you get DBA slotted streets, you bought china spec.

[thommo]

Wonder if that's right with all the excessive shudder is puts wear onto bushes.. I think brembos one day is the only real fix.

[Dirty32]

Likely to have some used Brembo 4 pot fronts with disks, pads and lines for sale in the next month or so Thommo, if everything goes to plan...

Let me know if your keen!

[thommo]

I suppose when you get car up on jack you'll be able to give the wheel a good shake and be able to tell if those bushes are worn, like they said it's so random only when you apply like upto 70% of braking pressure you get the shudder on 100% it not as obvious.

[thommo]

If it's not too pricey I might do that, was spewing deans 6/2 set off ute sold I never saw the thread till now :/

[Dirty32]

Yeh, I have 6 pots on my ute now...
Im going to be using them on my next car, so will sell the 4 pots.

Going price is $1500 - $1700 I think.
Ill Probably be chasing $1500.
Ill let you know when they are ready anyways.