Engine Oil

[shifted]

Just figured I would ask a quick question.

RZ Supra.

Runs 10W-40.

People recommend the Motul Chorno Fully Synthetic 300V stuff which I assume is great, but at $60 a litre, not worth it for my purposes/expenses/cash flow.

So had a look around, 15W-70 by Penrite. My understand is the 10W, 15W etc. is thickness. 40, 50, 60, 70 is the temperature before it disintegrates?

Would there be any issues going to 15W-70? Better for Turbo's?

I honestly know bugger all about Oils and etc. so figured to ask and check.

Cheers,
Paul

[Alt_F4]

Motul Turbolight (10W40) is fine for what you need.

Personally, I don't feel that going full synthetic oil is necessary unless you have a built engine.

[s1mon]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

Check out the 'Grades' section.

But personally a 10w 70 would be too heavy for your car. Maybe a 10W40 would suit, especially considering winter is coming.

[d1_drifter]

How many Kms has your motor run?

The first number is the 'cold weight', meaning the thickness on first cold startup. Not really familiar with the humble 2J but 15w seems abit thick for a relatively healthy stock motor?

The second number is the weight at operating temp. 70 is way too thick and fuel economy+performance will suffer from it.

300v would be the pick of the bunch, but 4100 Turbolight is fine and a fair wack cheaper!

[shifted]

So 15W-70 is then no good?

What effect would it have on the car?

[shifted]

How many Kms has your motor run?

The first number is the 'cold weight', meaning the thickness on first cold startup. Not really familiar with the humble 2J but 15w seems abit thick for a relatively healthy stock motor?

The second number is the weight at operating temp. 70 is way too thick and fuel economy+performance will suffer from it.

300v would be the pick of the bunch, but 4100 Turbolight is fine and a fair wack cheaper!

Sorry, just saw this.

Assumed genuine - 77,XXX kms

Seems 10W-40 is the way to go - will check out the Turbolight.

Cheers. :)

[Rantopotamus]

you should stay within 15 - 50... tops.

If you want a good oil just buy the straight Lucas 50 weight.

But you don't really need it. Penrite up to 50 will do fine.

[shifted]

So 10w-50?

Fuck this gets confusing, one person says it should be fine, others say it won't. I just don't want to get the wrong shit and fuck something up. :(

lol

Going to see 10w-50 range and see what is there. :)

[Turbo2.6L]

Try reading your manual & seeing what manufacturer's recommendations are maybe? That will stop the confusion caused by 10 people telling you 10 different opinions...

[shifted]

Try reading your manual & seeing what manufacturer's recommendations are maybe? That will stop the confusion caused by 10 people telling you 10 different opinions...

Am up north at the moment so don't know. I am assuming it is 10W-40, that is what has been run before. What I am wondering though is what the differences are and thus, would 15W-70 suit, which now seems it won't.

Basically, dad ran past a shop and had a look and came up with 15W-70 - this is where I got confused initially.

Most run 10W-40. Some run 10W-50. Haven't heard of anyone running 15W-70.

I just don't want to affect performance and reliability, though if one is better than the other, would be a good thing. I think I will check out 10W-50. :)

Or the 10W-40 Turbo one.

[Joe]

Stick with the Motul Chrono 300V.. don't be a tight arse :D

[shifted]

Stick with the Motul Chrono 300V.. don't be a tight arse :D

Don't has keshhhh. $$$$

:(

LOL

Otherwise I would. But at $60 a litre... fucken hell, would rip me a new arsehole!

[d1_drifter]

A quick google search found 10w30 to be factory spec for the 2JZ.

Aim around those figures, ie 10w40/0w30/5w40 etc, and you'll be fine.

[mitchy]

i use golden canola in me bendy bus, fits the budget perfectly.

on a more serious note, i've always run motul 10w40 4100 turbolight in all my RB's and my legnum too, and never had an issue in 6+ years.

chrono V isnt $60+ a litre either.. last i checked it was sub $100 for the 4L container it comes in.

[shifted]

A quick google search found 10w30 to be factory spec for the 2JZ.

Aim around those figures, ie 10w40/0w30/5w40 etc, and you'll be fine.

Was thinking it to be in that vicinity initially, but cheers. :)



chrono V isnt $60+ a litre either.. last i checked it was sub $100 for the 4L container it comes in.

That was what I thought, about $140 for 5L or something, but Dad had a look, reckons $104 for a 2L bottle. Not sure will look around or something... Otherwise Turbo one. :D

[Turbo2.6L]

Castrol Edge 10W40 or 0W40.
You work up north & have no funds for engine oil? Lay off the hookers & alcohol!! Haha

[mitchy]

pretty sure the 300V only comes in a 4L bottle, and it was definately under $100... like $80-90 last time i looked.
try repco, they usually keep it in stock.

[shifted]

pretty sure the 300V only comes in a 4L bottle, and it was definately under $100... like $80-90 last time i looked.
try repco, they usually keep it in stock.

Will check. :D


Castrol Edge 10W40 or 0W40.
You work up north & have no funds for engine oil? Lay off the hookers & alcohol!! Haha

Only just got up here, some drafting work. First pay am hoping to pay off credit card due to clutch replacement. Then has kesh.

LOL

[Traitor]

Use Motul 300V Chrono 10w40 as mentioned above.

Have also heard good stuff from the Royal Purple 10w40 which is quite a bit cheaper then the Motul and comes in a 5L bottle. Should be fine for a non track car.

Edit: Picked up some Motul yesterday from 4Slide (Autopro Innaloo) yesterday, the Royal Purple 10w40 (5L) was $80 and the Motul 300V Chrono was $135 for 1 x 4L and 1 x 2L with discount :)

[shifted]

Use Motul 300V Chrono 10w40 as mentioned above.

Have also heard good stuff from the Royal Purple 10w40 which is quite a bit cheaper then the Motul and comes in a 5L bottle. Should be fine for a non track car.

Edit: Picked up some Motul yesterday from 4Slide (Autopro Innaloo) yesterday, the Royal Purple 10w40 (5L) was $80 and the Motul 300V Chrono was $135 for 1 x 4L and 1 x 2L with discount :)

Ahhh forgot about AutoPro! Fuck I am an idiot!!!

Seems like the way to go. ;)

Out of curiosity... what would happen if I was put 10W-70 in??

[1JZNOSHIT]

Don't has keshhhh. $$$$

:(

LOL

Otherwise I would. But at $60 a litre... fucken hell, would rip me a new arsehole!

You own a modified Jap Import, if a $60 bottle of oil every 5000kms or so rips you a new asshole, then you will be in for a shock when something inevitably breaks.

Don't skimp on oil.

[shifted]

You own a modified Jap Import, if a $60 bottle of oil every 5000kms or so rips you a new asshole, then you will be in for a shock when something inevitably breaks.

Don't skimp on oil.

$60 a litre. 6 litres, $360 bucks mate.

Dunno where dad got that price from, but it is obviously wrong.

I know how expensive the shit is. Have a steering rack rebuild due. $1200 or there abouts. Just did clutch - $2600.

I know its not cheap - if I had to pay $360 for oil, I would be pissed. But I knew I read somewhere before about $140 for 5L and it was just confirmed in an earlier post, so going the 300V Chrono for sure. ;)

And as a 19 year old student, not exactly good when shit needs to be paid off!! :)

[Breno]

I use Penrite HPR10 (10-50) in my S15... works sweet for bulk limiter bashing. :P

but i change it after every time the car goes on the track... so it prolly doesn't even see 1000kms...

[Sfidz]

Don't use penrite it is shit.

I use motul 10w40 4100 turbolight as well. I feel its a mid range high performance Oil without going too silly like royal purple or something. you should change it every 5000k's in a turbo application or sooner. You cant skimp on oil if you have a performance car unless you enjoy rebuilds.

[beefcake]

Out of curiosity... what would happen if I was put 10W-70 in??
Nothing will happen to your engine, you will just use a bit more gas than normal, I've heard the rumours of oil pumps an shit snapping in cars becuase of thick oil, but never seen it first hand or had anyone actually tell me the story first hand either, may be a urban myth :lol:
So if you have put in the thick oil, don't fret, its not going to blow up , its just going to be possibly sluggish. But i don't think the seat of the pants dyno spec is going to feel any different.

[mitchy]

You own a modified Jap Import, if a $60 bottle of oil every 5000kms or so rips you a new asshole, then you will be in for a shock when something inevitably breaks.

Don't skimp on oil.

the irony is, spending a bit more on a decent oil may very well prevent an early, expensive engine rebuild...

[shifted]

the irony is, spending a bit more on a decent oil may very well prevent an early, expensive engine rebuild...

$60 bottle is bugger all, I was initially thinking the $100 to $140 mark for oil.

But, dad got a price of $104 for 2L of 300V so I wasn't going to spend $300 on oil for 6L.

Found it thru 4Slide now which is awesome at the price I thought it was around (approx. $140 for 5L was what I initially read on SupraForums, so I was surprised when dad got his price).

All sorted now. 300V is being bought and car is being serviced!! :D

[shifted]

Nothing will happen to your engine, you will just use a bit more gas than normal, I've heard the rumours of oil pumps an shit snapping in cars becuase of thick oil, but never seen it first hand or had anyone actually tell me the story first hand either, may be a urban myth :lol:
So if you have put in the thick oil, don't fret, its not going to blow up , its just going to be possibly sluggish. But i don't think the seat of the pants dyno spec is going to feel any different.

Cheers. :)

[s1mon]

Don't use penrite it is shit.

Quoted for the simple stupidity it is.

Penrite is very good oil, and the only Australian made oil. A little heavier than most, but thats because it caters for our hotter than average climate.

As for oils, the best thing you can do is stick to one brand and keep using it. You are better off using the same brand consistently, over using the most expensive brands but changing the name every time you change your oil. Like most lubricating liquids, some oils dont mix well with others.

[PABS]

what are the recommendations for the 1J? im servicing a mates this weekend and stuck on what oil. I've been advised Castrol Edge but unsure on grade and amount?

[evo5aurus]

valvoline and a few other oils are made in australia, not sure who told you penrite is the only one

[shifted]

Not sure on the 1J, but I would assume the same as 2J - 10W40. Check on the engine though on the top there should be a small sticker or something saying what oil (could be 10W30 - 2J says that) but due to age, 10W40 is great (300V is meant to be the bees knees) and some run 10W50. That is though, my assumption. A couple cars in the For Sale thread are being sold now running 1JZ - maybe PM the OP?

Otherwise SupraForums? I myself am unsure.

[jaybee]

what are peoples opinions on redline engine oil?