Engine not turning - no idea's left on why

[Nic_A31]

Last ditch effort before I burn the thing.

Changed the water pump, timing belt and a few gaskets on my Maxima (VG30), and now it's not starting.

100% confirmed the timing is all sweet.
IS getting fuel, air, and spark.
13.0v on its own battery but still no luck with leads to a running vehicle.

No knocking. Can smell a very small amount of unburnt fuel in the exhaust after turning but doesnt seem like all cylinders are getting it.

All the ECU diagnostics has to say is "5 5" - bullshit everything is working all sweet.

Any idea's folks ?
Really driving me up the wall. Just want to get it running again and get rid, room for next Ceffy.

[shifted]

I wouldn't know, but for the sake of my own learning here...

Could it have anything to do with any fuses?

Or an immobiliser is fucked?

Or the starter motor is fucked? Starter motor stopped my car in its tracks...

Probably useless to you, but figured may as well. :)

[mitchy]

not turning at all, or cranks but wont start?

if the latter, CAS plugged in/aligned correctly?

[Nic_A31]

Cranks but wont start.
As i said its getting fuel flow and not burning up, the immobaliser doesnt touch the fuel from what I can see of the Midvale backyard wire up job, and it uses a distributor, so it doesnt have any choice but to spark.
All fuses are sweet, the computer usually has a code for any circuits not responding.

Any mobile mechanics looking for cash work keen ?

[Nic_A31]

+ Yeah, crank angle is fine. ECU has a code for that and I've had that problem before.
Adjusted the timing forward / backward to see if that'd make any difference but still no combustion.

[S_E]

Could be flooded? Disconnect the injectors, crank it a few times to clear the fuel, then plug them back in and give it a shot.

[Rantopotamus]

If youve been cranking enough to flatten the battery throw in a new set of plugs too.

[Nic_A31]

Could be flooded? Disconnect the injectors, crank it a few times to clear the fuel, then plug them back in and give it a shot.

Thanks dude, will try tomorrow.
Shouldnt the sensors in the exhaust pick this up and cancel fuel injection for a few cycles if that was the case?


If youve been cranking enough to flatten the battery throw in a new set of plugs too.

Cheers. Will also try.
First time cranking over the sparks were drenched, changing them out sounded slightly better but still not catching. I'll try a fresh set and see how I go.

[Denver]

100% sure you have all the cams and crank lined up correctly?

it is possible to get them a bit out of wack, which woudl still enable them to turn, and not touch valve to piston, but depending on the sync and ref signals might prevent starting..

cant remember if the VG's run a single CAS with sync and ref in one, or seperate sensors...

[Nic_A31]

Done the timing belt twice now.
The old one was loose as fuck, changed it, no go, pulled it back off but noticed it'd moved out by half a tooth. Cranking now, same symptoms, but the belt is trying to slide off the pulleys so I stopped there.

[joshg123]

Belt is sliding off due to no harmonic balancer and stop plate being on? or because one of your idlers is bent?

In relation to previous comments, oxy sensors will not cancel out injection pulses in this condition. They wont be hot, and if they are heated it will only work in closed loop, ie cruising conditions. Not starting.

'no choice but to spark' - What do you mean by this, you have spark at all 6 leads or are assuming because it runs a distributor. Set crank at TDC, what you've set your cams at TDC and remove distributor cap and make sure its pointing a little before #1 and not the other way around.

Remove #1's rocker cover, both cam lobes for cylinder 1 will be 180 apart at TDC, in other words the intake cam lobe will point to the intake manifold and the exhuast lobe will be pointing towards exhuast side of head. They will be 'flat', if the lobes are up and down or at all pushing on a spring you have problems. Set your crank and cams to 'your tdc' and see what you have.

You have fuel pressure, but have you got injection pulse? Use a LED test light and probe the changing wire colour (one will be a common power), connect the test light lead to positive 12vbatt and probe the wire ( i stress the use of a LED test light only, or prefferably a noid light)


If you get to the bottom of this post without finding the problem, let me know

[joshg123]

Oh and please do one thing at a time, if it doesnt solve the proble reassemble as required and move to the next idea. You will chase your tail if you dont keep your work area and brain on one problem at a time

[kurbn]

the way I see it

Car Ran fine before you touched it
Car will not start after a timing belt job
.

I know you said the timing is 100%, but either the CAS is incorectly alligned or cams are out. It might be getting spark but its useless if its firing at the incorect time.

Apart from that, if it has a crank angle sensor make sure you have plugged that bag in.

[Nic_A31]

I'm under strain to get rid of this. For this weekend only its for sale if anybody is interested.
Registered (Due early May) not running, $1000

94 J30 Maxima, White, VG30E w/ 238'500km, Auto, eletric leather seats, sunroof, climate control.
Flaws: Not running, small burn in centre tail garnish, small amount of surface rust on sunroof (will clean this up), drivers side window not working (got quote for aftermarket rails and motors for all 4 windows for $400 deliverd from USA, will forward pro-forma invoice to whoever takes this if it goes)

[Nic_A31]

Injectors will squirt fuel once, then after that no matter how long I keep turning it, they don't spit.
Turn off, try again, same deal - inject once, then stop.

Computer has to be cancelling it out, but refuses to agree with me on the matter of something being wrong.

Atleast I've narrowed it down a little.