Turbo 400 Transmission fluid query [Archive]

Rantopotamus

14-02-2010, 03:40 PM

Dont know if anyone has seen my thread or heard me ranting and carrying on but I am having some issues with my turbo 400.

I am told but reputable sources that a turbo 400 with converter (stock) will hold around 11 - 12 litres.

This seems a lot to me. I have a B&M deep pan, 1/2 inch lines going to the boot into a dual cored oil cooler and back.

Now I got around 12 litres into my setup and ran it up.. checked the dipstick after it had been running for a good 5 mins and i had reversed and forwarded up and down the driveway. It was low on my dipstick so I added some.

Within 2kms of going for my first drive we had bulk smoke in cabin and after some checking the vacum hose was spitting out fluid.. It was just on the F mark b4 leaving.

It only leaks out on load over 3000rpm. So I dumped about 3 litres out and it was fine for the next drive for the first 15kms.. then again I have Tranny fuid all over my exhaust and smoke everywhere.. this time being on the drive to Motorvation this year and 40 + degree heat started a nice fire which I put out with my shirt...

So Do you want to know what the dipstick read? It was barely touching the indicator. below low...

I see no reason for it to be leaking anywhere else and there is no evidence of leaks.

I am guessing I may have the wrong dipstick so I am going to do a service on it today and change the dipstick tube to a original T400 one i just bought and see if this changes things..

Can anyone offer some advice. I have asked before and really have had no answer, from workshops ect..

ill go do the service now, will jack it up set the car in gear and rev it up to 4 - 5000 rpm with all fluids at specified indicators and see what it does.

Only thing im thinking is I have too much oil or there is something intrenally fucked...

Would like to get it sorted for Cruise Friday.

Also anyone know an autosparky who is keen to help wire up my lights as they do not work?

Rantopotamus

14-02-2010, 04:03 PM

Some info I found while researching may be good to create a transmission thread...??

Transmission Do's

1. Back flush cooler to prevent contamination of new transmission and converter.

2. If you intend to install a used converter, have it professionally flushed and fully inspected before using it. Proper inspection includes measuring pilot, hub, endplay and overall length and comparing those to the manufacturers specifications.

3. Verify that the converter is properly installed in the transmission before bolting unit into vehicle.

4. Thoroughly inspect your flexplate and drive shaft before installing transmission. Look for bad teeth, cracks, loose or missing balance weights, worn yoke or universal joints. Those problems will cause vibrations and other damage.

5. ALWAYS install and adjust any required TV or kick down cables exactly according to the instructions. INADEQUATE PRESSURE WILL QUICKLY DESTROY YOUR TRANSMISSION. Refer to vehicle service manual.

6. Verify shifter adjustment before starting engine. Vehicle should start in PARK and NEUTRAL only! Also, severe transmission damage will occur if unit is operated between gears. Refer to shifter instructions or vehicle service manual.

7. Check that the transmission cooler lines are not kinked or touching the exhaust system.

8. If your transmission is equipped with a vacuum modulator it is VERY IMPORTANT to verify the amount of vacuum at the modulator with a gauge. Automatic transmissions typically need a minimum of 12 in. Hg. at idle. Throttle position increases should produce a quick decrease in the vacuum reading at the modulator. Not enough vacuum will cause late, harsh shifts. Slow response to throttle position changes due to a kinked or plugged line will not properly boost line pressure and will BURN UP YOUR TRANSMISSION.

9. Add at Least 4 litres of transmission fluid before starting engine to prevent damage. Continue filling with engine running to proper level.

10. Re-torque the oil pan bolts after installation to 13 ft.-lbs. to prevent leakage.

11. Run your transmission with the vehicle on jack stands so that any mis-adjustments are corrected before they can cause damage.

12. Replace the filter after initial use. (Race - 20 passes, Street - 1000 klm) Bushings and clutches in an automatic have a break-in that generates fibre and metallic particles.

Transmission Don'ts

1. Don't accept your transmission from the deliver driver until you personally inspect it for cracks, dents or breakage.

2. Never install a converter of unknown specifications or origin. IT COULD BE THE WRONG APPLICATION OR, IF DAMAGED, IT COULD RUIN YOUR NEW TRANSMISSION.

3. Don't attempt to use a kinked metal or all rubber hose to connect your vacuum modulator if applicable. Proper installation is a metal line carefully bent, with a just a few cm's of rubber hose on either end for connection.

4. Never install a TV cable on a Holley carburetor without the proper brackets. Your transmission WILL BURN UP as a result of inadequate operating pressure.

5. Never use a solid transmission mount in any circumstances. This WILL cause the case to crack because it is not designed to be a stressed member of the chassis.

6. Never install pipe plugs in the cooler fittings. A cooler loop, in the very least, should be installed so that transmission lubrication is not compromised.

7. Don't use Teflon tape when installing cooler fittings into the case or the case WILL crack.

8. Don't overfill your transmission because this will foam and aerate the fluid causing heat and low pressure problems. Be sure the dipstick and tube are correct for your application.

9. Don't use the vehicle if a problem is suspected with your new transmission. Many times problems can be rectified while the transmission is still in the vehicle, but, if the transmission suffers permanent damage it will need to be removed.

Water Burnouts (Smoky Burnouts)

Tyre development brought about the need to get tyres hot in order to get maximum traction. This started the use of water to get tyre speed up quickly. Now tyres are getting hot, but automatic transmissions are subject to destruction if not careful!

Please read carefully the following suggestions for your transmission:

GM Powerglide Transmissions

Water burnouts will not hurt units, except if you are shifting from low to high as you are coming out of the water. Shifting under conditions stated will cause premature clutch wear. Suggest decelerating as you come out of the water or power burnout to the line being sure the tyres never grab the pavement.

GM Turbo Hydro 350 & 400 Transmissions

All water burnouts suggest starting in first or second, but get into high gear before coming out of the water. Normally Turbo Hydros do not have roller clutch trouble, except occasionally in the Turbo "350", but for durability reasons it will pay to follow the suggestion as stated for preventative maintenance. Be sure to decelerate as you come out of the water or power burnout to the line being sure the tyres never grab the pavement.

Ford C4 & C6 Transmissions

All water burnouts should be started in second gear and shift to third if necessary. If you should start burnout in first, shift immediately to second gear before tyres come out of water. No matter whether it be second or third gear you are in as you came out of the water, you should start to decelerate engine or do a power burnout directly to the staging line being sure the tyres never grab the pavement. The power burnout provides the best E.T.'s of no dry burnouts are done. No matter if you have a trans-brake or not, we suggest not doing dry burnouts!

Note:- Rear End Breakage & Driveshaft Breakage: If rear end or driveshaft breaks while in first gear acceleration or burnout, remove transmission and check rear roller clutch for damage.

Chrysler/American Motors 727 & 904 Transmissions

All water burnouts should be started in second gear and shift to third if necessary. If you should start burnout in first, shift immediately to second gear before tyres come out of water. No matter whether it be second or third gear you are in as you come out of the water, you should start to decelerate engine or do a power burnout directly to the staging line being sure the tyres never grab dry pavement. The power burnout provides the best E.T.'s if no dry burnout is done. No matter if you have a trans-brake or not , we suggest not doing dry burnouts!

Note:- Rear End Breakage & Driveshaft Breakage: If rear end or driveshaft breaks while in first gear acceleration or burnout, remove transmission and check rear roller clutch for damage.

http://www.protrans.com.au/Logos/Beat-the-Heat.jpg

There's More To Coolers Than You Think:

It's no secret that heat kills automatic transmissions. And in high-performance street-strip applications, the problem is especially acute. Small diameter torque converters coupled with stop-and-go traffic greatly increase the heat level in an automatic transmission. In most cases, the extra performance heat under the hood can have the same effect as heavy loads, trailer towing and desert conditions.

How Hot is too Hot?

The ideal operating temperature for automatic transmission fluid is between 175º F. At approximately 240º F, important additives in the ATF begin to cook. The result is the formation of varnish inside the transmission. At approximately 260º F, internal transmission seals (which are typically manufactured from a polyacrylate material) begin to harden. The end results are leaks, both internal and external, simply because the seals lose their elasticity. At approximately 295º F, transmission clutch plates begin to slip because the oil is breaking down further. At approximately 315º F, seals and clutches effectively burn out. Carbon forms in the oil and for all intents and purposes, the transmission is junk. Just for your information, a typical transmission will die within 1000 klm if subjected to 300º F + heat.

Link to torque converter shpiel.. (long)

http://www.protrans.com.au/torque-converters.htm