Slotted Vs Drilled Vs Dimpled [Archive]

Kilma

22-09-2008, 01:35 PM

Basically I have only heard of people who have heard stories. Not much first hand experience at all. Slotted is the minimum I will get for the XR8.

Are drilled rotors as prone to cracking these days as people let on? Mine are starting to, but they are on the very end of their life (I have worn through the slots, hence the NEED for new brakes).

Does anyone know how good/bad/otherwise dimpled rotors are, and/or how they compare to slotted or drilled & slotted rotors?

They won't be used too heavily, but will be pushed every now and then with the odd track day or No Limits event. They will be paired up with EBC Green Stuff pads.

Cheers
Damon

DISTRBD

22-09-2008, 01:45 PM

I use slotted only , cross drilled do tend to crack easier .

Brockas

22-09-2008, 01:57 PM

If you're doing a No Limits Event, don't go Drilled.

Why does it matter?

I'm running unslotted 355mm floating discs, the slotting basically only makes a difference to the cleaning of the pad.

mys1

22-09-2008, 02:31 PM

The dimpled pads from RDA are shite house for track work, they crack easy as!

Go slotted!

And for the falcoon go the Red Stuff not the green! Green is fine for street, but with the wieght of the falcoon the Reds will hold up alot better after a few laps!! Whilst perfectlly fine for daily driveing

cplagz

22-09-2008, 02:34 PM

Aaaaah this age old debate!

I think if the holes are cast into the rotor they are less prone to cracking then if they are drilled post-casting?

I'd got for vented, slotted rotors if they are available. Not sure if I'd touch EBCs though, a guy on another forum I'm on had the pad material come clean off the backing plate coming in hot to a corner... had to swap cogs to slow down, over-revved and then developed a big end knock!

Kilma

22-09-2008, 02:50 PM

And for the falcoon go the Red Stuff not the green! Green is fine for street, but with the wieght of the falcoon the Reds will hold up alot better after a few laps!! Whilst perfectlly fine for daily driveing
I have heard reds aren't great for daily driving because they need the heat to make them effective. Forgive my ignorance. I don't know much about this stuff, hence me asking.

Not sure if I'd touch EBCs though, a guy on another forum I'm on had the pad material come clean off the backing plate coming in hot to a corner... had to swap cogs to slow down, over-revved and then developed a big end knock!
What would you suggest as an alternative? I'm not going Bendix Ultimate again. They dust WWWAAAYYYY too much. :(

Cheers for the prompt replies as well.

WRCjosh

22-09-2008, 02:57 PM

mys1

22-09-2008, 03:00 PM

Brute (the painter guy with the ute) Runs RED in his ute with slotted rotors, As a daily hack, NO probs.

I ran them in my FD, From the moment I turned the key they stopped fine, and got better and better the hotter they get. mainly noticeable high speed breaking than low speed city driveing

I have never heard of them coming off the pad, thats a real isolated case, And my guess would be because they got hotter than they where suposed to get. wich is why id recomend going for reds, overheating a pad can cause the bonding to fail and the pad destroy itself

But hey, Go with whatever :P the reds work fine, they dust a little bit more than the greens, but its bearable! much better than others

cplagz

22-09-2008, 03:24 PM

I've heard good things about HAWK HPS

I'm running Ferodo DS2500 and they work very well, a little noisy when cold, but stop hard when warmed up. Never had them fade out at AHG or hills driving.

Tyson - it's not an isolated case, there's been many reports of EBC pads failing, I think they had a bad batch of pad materials or bonding material. I think the new ones are ok, but I personally wouldn't risk it with the amount of options out there that are available.

ben351

22-09-2008, 03:26 PM

ran freodo's in the GT-P ... pretty ok

thommo

22-09-2008, 03:32 PM

Brockas

22-09-2008, 03:39 PM

What would you suggest as an alternative? I'm not going Bendix Ultimate again. They dust WWWAAAYYYY too much. :(

Cheers for the prompt replies as well.

Ferodo DS2500's, I've run them in the GTR with the old brake setup and they held up at Wanneroo just fine.

I'll probably grab a set of 3000's when the time comes to replace the pads with the new setup.

DISTRBD

22-09-2008, 03:50 PM

thats correct, anyone who tells you drilled rotors crack easy is only half right...

Expensive drilled rotors like the ones from harrop that HSV use on their cars are actually CAST with the holes. These retail for nearly 1000 dollars each. The cheapo RDA/DBA drilled rotors are drilled POST casting, and do tend to crack easier then slotteds.

Have a HSV booked in for new rotors as genuine set are cracked hole - hole , cars done 80,XXX ks :td:

We did run ferodos with the brembos on the 31s , now upgraded to Project MU as they work the same n less dust and work great at collie n wannaroo

cplagz

22-09-2008, 03:52 PM

Don't think ProjectMu make pads for Fords :p

Brute

22-09-2008, 04:30 PM

Brute (the painter guy with the ute) Runs RED in his ute with slotted rotors, As a daily hack, NO probs.

They weren't too bad, but after the second set of reds separated from the backing plate I switched to DS3000 on the fronts and 2500 on the rear, never had a problem after that.

thommo

22-09-2008, 04:33 PM

are they seperating cos of excessive heat ?

mys1

22-09-2008, 04:35 PM

They weren't too bad, but after the second set of reds separated from the backing plate I switched to DS3000 on the fronts and 2500 on the rear, never had a problem after that.

hahaha beef never told me that bit :P

lol

Brute

22-09-2008, 04:47 PM

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/CraigGill/Copy4ofDSC00168.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/CraigGill/Copy4ofDSC00170.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/CraigGill/Copy4ofDSC00171.jpg

Bit of heat involved, but I wasnt on the track for extended periods of time.

cplagz

22-09-2008, 05:22 PM

TYSON, FAIL

You = Goalie tonight for that haah.

DISTRBD

22-09-2008, 05:27 PM

Don't think ProjectMu make pads for Fords :p

Would you like the Project MU part numbers for the FORD pads , here in front of me :p

DISTRBD

22-09-2008, 05:33 PM

Don't think ProjectMu make pads for Fords :p

Also do them to suit VT on and Barina :naughty:

cplagz

22-09-2008, 05:44 PM

Dead to me Bart, dead to me.

Do they do BMW pads? :)

Ryan1080

22-09-2008, 05:48 PM

I have heard reds aren't great for daily driving because they need the heat to make them effective. Forgive my ignorance. I don't know much about this stuff, hence me asking.

I had them in my old car a while ago. Street use they are not as good as greens, as they really do have to warm up well. They WON'T get to their proper temperature in daily street use, unless you're driving and stopping hard track-spec. You can tell the difference at proper temp though, much better for track. They are also much more harsher on the rotors than the greens. Had to replace my old rotors afterwards because of them. All my cars have had greens since. I suppose you need to weigh up the pros and cons really hey...

DISTRBD

22-09-2008, 05:56 PM

Dead to me Bart, dead to me.

Do they do BMW pads? :)

MMMM let me look in my book

They do them for 1.5ltr glx Lancers , AE86 corolla , 2.6 magnas , Honda crv n Hyundais , ROFL even do some for ca18de silvia so at a loss why nothing for BMW :dunno:

MissS15

22-09-2008, 06:05 PM

The dimpled pads from RDA are shite house for track work, they crack easy as!

Go slotted!

has anyone else had experience with rda dimpled rotors?

if they are no good i may just sell mine. i haven't had them installed, but no point if they aren't good. Any have feedback?

apart from brake dust anything else wrong with bendix pads?

DISTRBD

22-09-2008, 06:24 PM

apart from brake dust anything else wrong with bendix pads?

The price of them :p

meatbag

23-09-2008, 04:37 AM

Feroda ds 2500 doing the trick for me on daily basis. little noisy when cold, but nothing you would hear over the top of even A.M. radio playing in the background

mys1

23-09-2008, 07:31 AM

Kilma

23-09-2008, 07:45 AM

Giving slotted with the Ferodo DS3000 pads a go. Don't want to risk much seeing as I have just sent off my application for the Classic Rally as well. With the amount of interest displayed in the other thread (and that's just Antilag), I'm not going to be surprised if I don't make the cut though. :lol:

cplagz

23-09-2008, 08:03 AM

xr06t

23-09-2008, 08:49 AM

hey kilma, what brake setup do you have on your car?

i was unable to get 2500's for my stock ba brake calipers, so i assumed the 3000's wouldn't fit?

also, has antone heard of or used qfm pads?

Kilma

23-09-2008, 09:18 AM

I got stock EF XR8 brakes (hence the need for decent quality stuff hahaha) for now. I will have told my mechanic to check if they are available. Guess I'll just wait and see.

Kilma

01-10-2008, 09:34 AM

Found out Ferodo don't make DS series for an EF XR8 (no surprise there). Would have to get some cut & milled, resulting in an astronomical price.

A lot of other places also seem to be out of stock of rotors at the moment.

Bart (DISTRBD) from South West Brake n Clutch has hooked me up with some decent (not top of the wazza, but far better than the slot-less extreme lipped stuff I have now) rotors and pads at a more reasonable price though, and a lot more helpful then some of the other places I have tried. Even tried to sell an upgrade kit from someone else doing himself out of money, but time is very short. :(

180SXTCY

01-10-2008, 09:55 AM

has anyone else had experience with rda dimpled rotors?

if they are no good i may just sell mine. i haven't had them installed, but no point if they aren't good. Any have feedback?

apart from brake dust anything else wrong with bendix pads?

i have the 324mm RDA Slotted and Dimpled rotors on the front of my s15 with the skyline 4 pot calipers and ultimate pads. ive given them a work out and they tend to be holding up alright...

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg77/johny_dee/Image0252.jpg

Saf

01-10-2008, 10:17 AM

Aaaaah this age old debate!

I think if the holes are cast into the rotor they are less prone to cracking then if they are drilled post-casting?

Thats correct. Years ago pads needed to de-gas, now they dont. The holes were there for that, but with holes in rotors now, its just rotating weight now, lighter disk = better disk.

Id go slotted.

One thing ive not seen is talk on fluids, and they make as much (at times if not more) of a difference as pads do. A pad is about half way of a good system, feel comes from fluid, some abrupt, some smooth and some totally useless.

Kilma

01-10-2008, 10:32 AM

Suggestions then? What should people be looking out for?

Saf

01-10-2008, 10:48 AM

Fluid is a personal choice, depending on what you like, and some on your system wont work. Thats the funnay part ive found, same fluid, in two simmilar applications (even at times same brand of calipers and masters) and one is spot on, one is junk.

My faves are

- Motul RBF 600
- AP500
- Motul DOT5.1 (but ive found it has too much seal swell in it, especially for tockiko calipers on bikes)
- Bel-Ray Super Dot4 (has amazing feel, but has a lower boiling point - perfect for street)
- Rock Oil DOT5.1
- Motul DOT4

Apart form that ive tried every decent brand of DOT4 and 5.1 (dont use 5) and they remain what ill juggle about.

To make matters even more complex, when doing mo-sp and wearing out pads often, rebuild calipers. As when the piston goes back in, so does metalic brake dust into and past the dust seal.

DISTRBD

01-10-2008, 11:08 AM

One thing ive not seen is talk on fluids, and they make as much (at times if not more) of a difference as pads do. A pad is about half way of a good system, feel comes from fluid, some abrupt, some smooth and some totally useless.

Both 31s run 33 brembos front n rear , 5000series rotors with alloy hats , Project MU B spec pads all braided lines and PBR fluid that cost me $4.00 a litre .. solid pedals on both n yet to have issues .

Collie after 6 hard laps front rotor temps 320degrees rears 280

Saf

01-10-2008, 12:14 PM

Both 31s run 33 brembos front n rear , 5000series rotors with alloy hats , Project MU B spec pads all braided lines and PBR fluid that cost me $4.00 a litre .. solid pedals on both n yet to have issues .

You dont have to have issues, but the difference between a good system and a great system from exp is fluid, and its does make a massive difference. If your basing the fact your system works fine and you spent $4, your missing out a whole lot when not trying out other fluids.

DISTRBD

01-10-2008, 01:47 PM

You dont have to have issues, but the difference between a good system and a great system from exp is fluid, and its does make a massive difference. If your basing the fact your system works fine and you spent $4, your missing out a whole lot when not trying out other fluids.

Tried Elf fluid once when local rep gave me carton of it to try out and still have 3ltrs here , never felt any difference in pedal .

djr81

01-10-2008, 01:53 PM

A couple of things come to mind:
If you are only getting about 300 degrees in your rotors $4 fluid will be fine as you aren't using them very hard.

The only proper way to measure them is to use thermal paint on the rotors - these flash off at 400, 540 & 680 degrees typically. 3 laps of the short track at Wanneroo in my bloated POS is enough to see all three paint markings flash off. No point measuring them when you return to the pits as they should be cool by then. Also no point using an infra red thermometer as they don't work on metal - you need a k type thermocouple.

Personally I don't much like dot 5.1 fluid. Of the Dot 4 - 600's I just use Motul RBF660. Note the 600 (now 660) indicates the boiling point of fresh fluid in fahrenheit - 660 degrees F is 350 degrees C. Old, degraded fluid has a boiling point similar to standard dot 4 fluid when new. Costs < $30 for 500ml - most cars need a couple of bottles to flush the fluid properly. From what I understand the key to the feel is the compressability of the fluid.

DISTRBD

01-10-2008, 03:48 PM

1300kilo car with 290hp n 33 gtr Brembos , I dont doubt there not working very hard

iluv2moan

01-10-2008, 04:57 PM

1300kilo car with 290hp n 33 gtr Brembos , I dont doubt there not working very hard

u will never of had them glowing red if they only reach 300 degrees

DISTRBD

01-10-2008, 05:20 PM

Might smash on some 33 gts-t brakes then n get pingpingpingpings glowing :rolleyes:

iluv2moan

01-10-2008, 05:35 PM

Might smash on some 33 gts-t brakes then n get pingpingpingpings glowing :rolleyes:

are u saying your brakes are better then gtst brakes because they dont get hot (glow)? you should start preaching to these lemans teams to start running 33 gtr brembos

DISTRBD

01-10-2008, 05:52 PM

No , 32 gts-t brakes are better

iluv2moan

07-10-2008, 12:53 PM

question for steve.

have u been racing with the the factory cross drilled rotors in the 35?

if so any feedback or dramas relating to them...

EDIT - just checks dutton threads for pics- appears u wernt at targa atleast.

07-10-2008, 01:12 PM

He had the Evo at Dutton.

Facepalm.

iluv2moan

07-10-2008, 01:21 PM

major typing fuckup there, please forgive me

Lonewolf

07-10-2008, 02:04 PM

had slotted ones in targa too.

from what i've seen, the more expensive rotors have holes cast in, and dont have an issue.
cheaper ones with drilled holes can have issues with cracking.

my brake kit came with them, but if they crack (or when they wear out) i'll be moving back to slotted.

iluv2moan

30-12-2008, 01:36 AM

Both 31s run.... PBR fluid that cost me $4.00 a litre .. solid pedals on both n yet to have issues .

Collie after 6 hard laps front rotor temps 320degrees rears 280

still run $4 pbr fluid in new setup??

DISTRBD

30-12-2008, 08:43 AM

still run $4 pbr fluid in new setup??

What new set up :dunno:

magic1

30-12-2008, 09:13 AM

no one has mentioned the increased pad wear with slotted rotors?
im using http://performance.bendix.com.au/StreetRoadTrack.aspx but i have found that after 4000km they are over half way through. this is without this car seeing the track. im sure that the slotted rotors have something to do woth this.

iluv2moan

30-12-2008, 10:01 AM

What new set up :dunno:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/lysdexia/GTS1/29122008006.jpg

DISTRBD

30-12-2008, 11:15 AM

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/lysdexia/GTS1/29122008006.jpg

My 31 is red ..

iluv2moan

30-12-2008, 01:27 PM

still run $4 pbr fluid in new setup??

never said your 31

DISTRBD

30-12-2008, 03:39 PM

We use D.B.S fluid now :boink:

monk_13

30-12-2008, 03:51 PM

A bit of interesting reading on the 'Vs' subject...

http://www.350z-tech.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=35776

Denver

03-01-2009, 01:29 PM

bit late on this one, but as people have pointed out, slotted is the way to go over drilled and slotted..

recently had a set of OMP rotors on th rex, which where slotted and drilled, with the holes cast in and not drilled out after, and they still cracked, while on the road no less and parking the car, hadn't seen any track work in weeksm, was driving normally, just parked it in the drive camre ou later, cracked rotor, they had seen some track work, but nothing excessive, and certainly nothing i thought would cause them to crack like that, and they also ha no visible crack marks in them prior..

as for fluid, we run dot 4 in the thing, as the fluid gets a good bleed or flush prior to any real events, an doesn't see anywhere near the heat you'd see in a race situation, ill be swapping it over for 5.1 shortly as the cars going on the race track this year, where 10 laps will be enough to exceed the boiling point of dot 4..