What type of engine oil?

[varrjj_]

I've been trying to do a bit of research on the type of oil i should be using in my motor (sr20det 130 000km, running 11psi). It would seem every pingpingpingping in the world has his/her own opinion on what is the optimum oil to use.

Fully synthetic is obviously more expensive, but its not something i don't mind forking out for every 5000km if it's actually worth it.
As for semi synthetic, obviously a lot less expensive but apparently better for normal day to day driving?!?!?

Anyway the question is. what sort of oil should i be using? Also what type of oil do you guys use?

Thanks!

[MMM]

15W 40

and any brand you wish to use

i used mobil

[Tocchi]

Black & Gold Canola Blend. :)

i always use fully synthetic oils

going from semi to full = ok
but going from full to semi = bad for motors ive been told

i usually use a 10W-60 if i can get a hold of it

[Lonewolf]

nissan recommend a 7.5w30
have used nissan factory stuff and its quite good, also castrol sport 5w30.
Been happy with both in all my sr20de/det/ve's

[DRKWRX]

Motul 300V Crono is what I use.

[revs13]

I use Valoline 10W-40 (semi-synthetic i think) anyway my motor has a hard life and its still going strong after using it for the last year......*touch wood*

[Joe]

Mobil 1 10W/30 fully synthetic, but thinking of going the Chrono 300V 10W/40 for that bit of extra protection.

As for semi synthetic, being "apparently better for normal day to day driving", uhh, what? How can an oil be better for daily driving? I would have thought you run the best oil you can afford, all the time. Fully synthetic is going to be the best all round IMHO.

[SimonR32]

edge is the cheapest i would go but its only semi-synthetic
mobil 1 is very good
motul is the best but too exy for me

personally on a sr20 with that many km's i would just save my money and use edge

[iluv2moan]

i have only every used gtx3. havent had any problems.

a stripped down motor after 450,000 ks was perfect

[varrjj_]

Mobil 1 10W/30 fully synthetic, but thinking of going the Chrono 300V 10W/40 for that bit of extra protection.

As for semi synthetic, being "apparently better for normal day to day driving", uhh, what? How can an oil be better for daily driving? I would have thought you run the best oil you can afford, all the time. Fully synthetic is going to be the best all round IMHO.

Yeah it's just what I've heard. I don't have that much knowledge on engine oils :(

Thanks a lot guys, i think I'll save my money and go for the semi synthetic stuff!

[Saf]

I would have thought you run the best oil you can afford, all the time.

Your right Joe, but food for thought (and when i think of ratty old shitty engine oil, i think of EVERY CA18 owner (cept for me) and Mitsubishi owners) , whats better in the long run ? ....

1x $70 Fully synth at 5000kms

or

1x $35 semi synth (perhaps mineral) every 2500kms ?

Both have the same value, option B is better in the end. When i hang piss on CA owners, ive done work on quite a few, and EVERYONE may have used a synth oil, but they tried to get 80,000kms out of that one service.

A lesser grade oil is better with frequent changes.

As far as Motul being the best, i dissagree, motul of late have gone from a specialist oil, to a "repco" or "supershit" stocked type of mass produced oil. Very dissapointed with thier gear of late, and have solid evidence on why it wont go into my engines. I know for a fact that Honda (MPE motorbikes) will not warrantee engine failures on motul.

However they still make one of the best brake fluids around, RBF600, but again, DOT5.1 sucks arse, as its been causing piston bind (seal swelling agents i presume) in my race calipers on my superbike.

Consider looking around for diesel oils, and get in touch with the oil companies. Diesel engines now have specific synth lightweight oils for todays engines, that meet and exceed specifications of your off the shelf "hi-po" oils, because as you know diesels all nowadays have turbochargers (heat) and have bearing loads in trucks for many hours a day, hauling many tons with probably 5 times the torque at the crank to bearing surface than your engine will ever see, year in year out on mega dollar engines.

And it works for them.

[Lonewolf]

agreed, some owners in pulsar circles swear by "Neo" oil, supposedly giving you huge service intervals.
eg gold: 5L ($70) : 25,000km
platinum: 5L ($115): 40,000km
My preference is to spend half as much and replace it twice as often.

[Joe]

Saf, if Motul Chrono 300V is no longer the great oil it used to be, what full-synth 10W40 would be recommended then?

[Saf]

This is the thing, how can anyone brag about getting 40,000kms out of a in-effecient internal combustion engine ?.

Blow by, carbon, condensation (you only need clear PVC to catchcan lines to see the water buildup in the first few mins of operation) and it just doesnt add up.

[Saf]

Saf, if Motul Chrono 300V is no longer the great oil it used to be, what full-synth 10W40 would be recommended then?

Joe, Im not saying its not good for you, im saying "i wont use it" haha.

The thing is this, no one engine oil is for any broad spectrum of engines. For eg in the GT4 i run a semi synth Shell Helix so it stays quiet up top. The Supra gets Shell Helix Synth, and the Hilux when i had it didnt work well with either, i drained the Helix Synth in a week, and replaced it with a off the shelf Castol Magnatec, that ran super clean, oil was only tanned after 500kms (Helix was pitch black in 100kms) and had really good cold start and hot start oil pressure.

The Helix (both) would drain back and on hot start you would have no oil pressure for a handfull of seconds, so the engine sounded like it was about to implode.

Mobil in 3S GT4 engines is rattly as hell, and tends to find more leaks from exp. In my 180sx, i run cheap, nasty mineral oil, it gets driven TO the Nurburgring from Slovakia, gets driven back (800kms one way) and abused 3 days straight. Then it gets abuse at Brno GP circuit, hill climbs, and numerous rear tyres in drift bouncing the limiter. It then sits for 1.5-2 years, and it happens all over again.

Im not telling you to not run Motul, im saying that dont belive in the hype what "people" say, about oils. Are you dissapointed with what you have so far ?. If not, stick with it.

In my race bike i put in Silkolene Pro4 Plus racing oil. Its about $110 per 4L, the bike takes 3.8L, it does about 60kms on that one oil change, and gets dumped. If i used a cheaper mineral oil, it would still do 60kms, and get dumped. So why do i use $110 a bottle oil for 60kms of racing ?. I get it for free.

Food for thought.

[MISS 13B]

I've always used Motul 4000 and now they've stopped making it FFS!

I've been told Penrite HPR40 is a good alternative??

[Joe]

The Supra gets Shell Helix Synth, and the Hilux when i had it didnt work well with either, i drained the Helix Synth in a week, and replaced it with a off the shelf Castol Magnatec, that ran super clean, oil was only tanned after 500kms (Helix was pitch black in 100kms) and had really good cold start and hot start oil pressure.


The Mobil 10W30 I'm using at the moment is what my designated workshop uses....the owner of the shop runs it in his heavily abused WRX and its still going strong.

Its still clean as a whistle and slippery as hell after 1800km with my new high-flowed Denso injectors (as opposed to getting dirty within 100km when I was running the agricultural bore-wash-down spec Sard injectors).

I'll change it at 2000km, change it again at 4000km, then push the service interval out to 9000km (new motor, I like to change the oil a few times very regularly at first).

Just thought the 10W40 would protect a bit better, but I think the 10W30 is doing a good enough job for now. When I'm going to run 1.6 bar again, I might look at changing it :)

Saf, welcome back btw....good to see you putting your knowledge out there once again :D

[Brockas]

Why is everyone using heavier oil?

Silvia's run 5W from the factory...

[Joe]

Why is everyone using heavier oil?

Silvia's run 5W from the factory...

Because brand new from the factory Silvia's actually had engine clearances that were small enough to measure with feeler gauges and micrometers.

99% of Silvia's can now have their clearances measured with a ruler.

[Lonewolf]

Why is everyone using heavier oil?

Silvia's run 5W from the factory...

7.5W technically :wave:

[Saf]

The Mobil 10W30 I'm using at the moment is what my designated workshop uses....the owner of the shop runs it in his heavily abused WRX and its still going strong.


See i know nothing about Subi engines, but it sounds like your on a winner so far mate.



Its still clean as a whistle and slippery as hell after 1800km with my new high-flowed Denso injectors (as opposed to getting dirty within 100km when I was running the agricultural bore-wash-down spec Sard injectors).


Were you having spray issues with the SARD units ?. The SARD units are made by Denso tho ... are they a different nozzle pattern ?.



Just thought the 10W40 would protect a bit better, but I think the 10W30 is doing a good enough job for now. When I'm going to run 1.6 bar again, I might look at changing it :)


I mean try it, see how you go, but if your on a winner with what you have so far ....

Fluids are a funny thing, 2 identical spec products that meet the same SAE standards, can work differently.

With my bikes, the 929 and 954 (Nissin calipers) Fireblade's use Motul RBF600 brake fluid, it works a treat, rock hard braking, and i can beat up on the brakes as much as i want at AHG or Wanneroo, even Collie in summer, and ill have the same feel hot or cold. Put it into my 1000rr Fireblade with radial Tokico calipers, soft, spongey, un-predictable. Simmilar weight bikes, simmilar era, simmilar piston size in brakes, totally different.



Saf, welcome back btw....good to see you putting your knowledge out there once again :D

Thanks man. Been quiet, sometimes i like 4 wheels, sometimes 2, never did mind anti lag so much, ill be back here and there.

[Joe]

Saf,

The Sard's are a funny thing...they are twin hole, and from all accounts they are quite hit and miss. Some sets atomise nicely, others are like a garden hose (which mine were).

Got mega bore-wash with them and it heavily diluted my oil which was less than 3000km old, according to the oil analysis we had done it reduced the viscosity of the oil by almost 60%. Bearings didn't like it!

Now I'm running high flowed stock injectors (Denso's). Not only are they easier to tune, but the oil is squeaky clean...no bore wash in sight :)

[Nismo33]

used to use Fucs 5w30
now use castrol edge 5w30

[DRKWRX]

how is Motul shit now??? Its still made in France, why would they decide all of a sudden to make shit oil? at 90 bucks for 4 litres its not cheap either.

[Lui]

I use Penrite SIN 10W-70 on the zed, haven't had any problems.

[Lonewolf]

how is Motul shit now??? Its still made in France, why would they decide all of a sudden to make shit oil? at 90 bucks for 4 litres its not cheap either.

might want to read the whole thread champ.
and expensive doesnt always mean good...

[Joe]

I use Penrite SIN 10W-70 on the zed, haven't had any problems.

Fark, thats some heavy grade oil!

[Brett_J]

Isnt 10 referring to the weight?
70 for the ideal or operating temp?

[gt86wa]

I use Mobil 1 10/30
Put some supercheap special in it and a cheap filter first for a quick flush out too

[Brett_J]

Awesome info here

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
http://www.carbibles.com/viscosity.html

[Miggy]

Motul 300V Crono is what I use.

This is also what I use, it was recommended to me by someone who has studied all the properties of all the popular oils.

[Halle Terry]

just did my oil change used took 4 hours.....(may or may not have been due to reluctance to fork out $10 for oil filter remover)

used penrite hpr15, sae 15w-60. as far as i know this is preety coota stuff, however id like to hear some opinions as to what oil everyone likes?

mobil 1 for my next change? or castrol edge? both seem preety decent but i fear i might be paying partly for a brand if i go for mobil

[DRKWRX]

one thing that shat me off, in other car I always used motul 4100 turbolite that comes in 5 litre bottle, but in sti decided to use 300v and didnt notice the bottle is only 4 litres and I needed 4.5 litres so had to buy another bottle ended up costing 200 bucks just to change the oil lol.

[onejayzee]

Topic of engine oil always goes on for ages.

I personally use Penrite SIN 15-40w mainly due to the fact the engine is quite old so having a heavier grade oil gives it more protection.

Also changing to thicker Penrite from Mobil 1 10-30w has helped stopped morning smokey startups from worn valve stem seals.

[monk_13]

I was running nissan's oil for awhile. changed service centres and the oil went to magnatec.... swapped from that to royal purpples 10w40 and the engine is now noticeably smoother and seems a little more willing to rev as well...

PS i drive a 350Z and the OEM oil is 5w40.

[Saf]

A lot of the big hp Supra boys (800-1200hp street driven and 500-700+ circuit driven) swear by Royal purple, but ive never used it.

[evil1]

whatever hpr15 is.
i use to use it