Boost controller choice

[ZERO]

hey all

SR20det(s13 motor), minor mods (turbosmart BC, SFAC II, zorst & FMIC)

I have been told by a few ppl to try out a eletronic boost controller.
ATM, i have a Turbosmart controller, the one prior to the newer "boost T".
It seems to work fine, hits boost and stay's there.

So what will i gain form going to a eletronic controller?
I tried a Profec B or something....cant remember, but tok it off within a few weeks, seemed to come onto boost later and drop off earlier :dizzy:

Fancy guages and bright lights from a BC dont interest me, just something that works. WHat would you reccomend?

[B0BB0]

does a search pal. its been talked bout already.

and bleedy valves are mud, get an ebc

[Jazza]

http://www.antilag.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10059&page=1

[ZERO]

not relly the answers i was after.

Basically, Q: for the mods i have, and dont plan on much more, a simple controller should be sweet??
or is it worth the costs of a EBC?

[1JZNOSHIT]

an electronic boost controller will hold boost better (ie no spiking etc) and provide slightly quicker spoolage too, regardless of mods....

[iluv2moan]

i disagree.... keep using the manual blled valve till u upgrade turbo, if ya eva go external gate which isnt that expensive no more, a bleedvalve is fine, i got a eboost2 and although havent set it up correctly, hard to justify the expense - **** to set up, still spikes on cold days etc etc

[ZERO]

I been doing quite a bit of reading about it today, was so so bored

Basicaly!!!

there are two types of mech/man boost controllers, bleed valve and ball/spring.

majority are bleed valve, im sure thoes GFB ones are. They look pretty but don't provide accurate control. They lag, spike and waste boost. Why bleed boost out, don't you want to keep it?

"They allow back pressure which hinders fast spool up and causes excessive turbo lag because much of the unused pressure gets sucked back toward the turbo during negative boost and tries to slow down the turbine- much like having someone pulling on your shirt while trying to run. This problem creates what is known as TURBO LAG, a condition where bleed valves or mass produced and badly engineered boost controllers can’t control the boost, which can and will cause expensive damage to your engine- avoid this at all costs."

Hands down the ball/spring ones are better!!!

'It does this two ways, after positive boost and driver backs off, the valve slams shut allowing zero pressure to back up and interfere with the re-spooling of the turbo. Any small amount of pressure then trapped between the 'controller' and the wastegate actuator is eliminated via a specifically sized ‘excess pressure valve’. Inferior boost controllers do NOT allow the venting of unused boost and thus causing BOOST SPIKING'


The eletronic controllers, from what i can tell, are fairly good too. The biggest downfall is getting them to perform 100% and consistantly!
Also seem to make a difference on higher psi, big power motors (which mine is neither!!!) and imo, not worth the coin!

I actually bought a controller today, $24!!!!!
Taking my turbosmart controller(bleed) off and will try this new ball/spring controller. I read about 6 pages on a skyline forum today where ppl were raving about them, even over eletronic units!! Not a single bad word...

and for $24, its worth a try!

see how it goes :D



am i kinda on-track?

[Jazza]

i disagree.... keep using the manual blled valve till u upgrade turbo, if ya eva go external gate which isnt that expensive no more, a bleedvalve is fine, i got a eboost2 and although havent set it up correctly, hard to justify the expense - **** to set up, still spikes on cold days etc etc

Get a tuner to set it up mate... have u seen my dyno graph? Best boost controller on the market by farrrrrr, plus with all those extra bits you can set up on it that can save you costs elsewhere.

[MMM]

I been doing quite a bit of reading about it today, was so so bored

Basicaly!!!

there are two types of mech/man boost controllers, bleed valve and ball/spring.

majority are bleed valve, im sure thoes GFB ones are. They look pretty but don't provide accurate control. They lag, spike and waste boost. Why bleed boost out, don't you want to keep it?

"They allow back pressure which hinders fast spool up and causes excessive turbo lag because much of the unused pressure gets sucked back toward the turbo during negative boost and tries to slow down the turbine- much like having someone pulling on your shirt while trying to run. This problem creates what is known as TURBO LAG, a condition where bleed valves or mass produced and badly engineered boost controllers can’t control the boost, which can and will cause expensive damage to your engine- avoid this at all costs."

Hands down the ball/spring ones are better!!!

'It does this two ways, after positive boost and driver backs off, the valve slams shut allowing zero pressure to back up and interfere with the re-spooling of the turbo. Any small amount of pressure then trapped between the 'controller' and the wastegate actuator is eliminated via a specifically sized ‘excess pressure valve’. Inferior boost controllers do NOT allow the venting of unused boost and thus causing BOOST SPIKING'


The eletronic controllers, from what i can tell, are fairly good too. The biggest downfall is getting them to perform 100% and consistantly!
Also seem to make a difference on higher psi, big power motors (which mine is neither!!!) and imo, not worth the coin!

I actually bought a controller today, $24!!!!!
Taking my turbosmart controller(bleed) off and will try this new ball/spring controller. I read about 6 pages on a skyline forum today where ppl were raving about them, even over eletronic units!! Not a single bad word...

and for $24, its worth a try!

see how it goes :D



am i kinda on-track?


yeah im getting one of those as well see how it goes :)

[iluv2moan]

hey mate - no i haventy seen ya dyno graphs so could u please link me.... i tune my own car onm the road so its alittle hard to get consistant load on motor to see the fine difference the gain and sensitivity and gatre pressure does.. u can run diff boost in diff gears can ya???

[Jazza]

Wastegate spring naturally is 13.5-14psi, E-boost2 brings it to 20psi and holds it to 8,000rpm.
http://www.antilag.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3045
Im not sure about running diff boost in diff gears, i simply have 2 boost settings, 1 at 13.5psi and one at 20psi... i know you can start to get techinical with the e-boost2 but i was just interested in good boost control lol

[iluv2moan]

dynos boost plots look so diff to my dataloggs.. ill post up 1 of my logs

[iluv2moan]

http://i75.imagethrust.com/i/525683/good.jpg the blue curve is boost

[Jazza]

Well boost control doesn't look that bad??